《岱史》Vol. 18
About this page. The original text of 《岱史》 Vol. 18 (Xu Daozang 續道藏, 18 volumes) is shown in Classical Chinese as transmitted in the Kanripo (Kyoto University) edition. An English interpretation of the 63 passages on this page accompanies it: select a passage or press “Interpretation” to show it. All texts in English
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This passage depicts the magnificent sunrise scene atop Mount Tai's Riguan Peak (a famous sunrise-viewing spot southeast of Mount Tai) and the profound insights gained from ascending to such heights.
Before dawn has fully broken, climbers have already reached the lofty summit of Riguan Peak. At this hour, the boundary between night and day remains indistinct—one can hear wild geese calling though their forms remain unseen, when suddenly morning crows announce daybreak as faint light gradually emerges in the east. The sun rises slowly from Yang Valley (legendary birthplace of the sunrise), illuminating cliffs and vegetation, its glorious radiance impartially bathing all creation like a torchlight inspiring reverence.
Ancient emperors performing the Fengshan sacrifices (imperial ceremonies worshiping heaven and earth) would always ascend this supreme peak. During spring imperial tours, they contemplated the sun's symbolic benevolence and experienced Mount Tai's majesty as "one of the Three Dukes" (metaphor for the mountain's preeminent status among China's Five Sacred Peaks). Now in this era of peace, sun, moon and stars move in orderly harmony, while countless cliffs and valleys bask in auspicious spring hues.
The author compares his modest talents to a firefly's faint glow, yet harbors swan-like ambitions, having waited all night with neck craned for sunrise. When dawn arrives as promised, he lingers reluctantly. The passage concludes with a lyrical refrain: Ascending Riguan Peak makes even distant vistas unfold completely before one's eyes—the sun's essential brilliance manifests in this eternal cycle of rising and setting.
The latter section describes another southeastern peak scenery: sheer cliffs stand alone in the realm of pure emptiness, where at daybreak lingering mists give way to crimson clouds at the horizon. As night recedes, the starry river gradually fades while mountain forests and clouds transform through shifting hues. Sunlight penetrates cloud layers, gilding vegetation in golden light as sea-like clouds blaze with blood-red magnificence.
Mount Tai (Daiyue) stretches with undulating ridges, its summit aglow with the slowly moving firelight of sunrise, reflections shimmering across the water's surface. Sunlight pierces through cloud crevices like flying mirrors flashing, darting past secluded windows like lightning. When the mountain gates stand desolate, the frosty sky appears vast and silent—coolness greets the dawn while lingering warmth seeps into the fading night. Crystalline radiance dazzles brilliantly, scattering beams dancing with the wind.
Dewdrops spill like woven nets, mountain breezes tug at swaying tree shadows. Gazing into the distance, all things awaken from the horizon. Sparse trees emerge faintly visible, while shadowed valleys plunge into unfathomable depths. Ten thousand gullies gather twilight, a thousand cliffs welcome the morning light, melting the residual snow on ancient steps and startling birds nesting in cold courtyards. The distant sky, clear and pure, stirs lament for time’s swift passage; emerald peaks tower majestically as the sun’s disk gradually diminishes.
The Tower of Reaching Heaven blazes with color, its soaring silhouette cast obliquely by the sun. Mountain mists rise like flames, and water ripples with glimmering light. Isolated cliffs reveal narrow passages akin to the legendary Spirit Raft crossing, while the seemingly close sunlight reflects the worldly distance of Chang’an (symbolizing the mortal realm). Soon, all things don resplendent brilliance as the full, unobstructed sunlight bathes the land.
Moisture dims the luster of pearls; pine shadows fracture the light on stone walls. Clouds and mist resemble folded brocade, and celestial winds carve the mountains like swords. Cracks in the clouds part like heavenly gates, while sudden dawn light spilling from eaves revitalizes the land of Qi and Lu (the region surrounding Mount Tai). Sunlight climbs over ridges in succession, illuminating even the tips of sprouting grass. Thus, the morning sun hangs high in the vast sky, bidding farewell to darkness as all things emerge distinctly in its radiance.
(Transitioning to a reference from Hong Mai’s Rongzhai Suibi, quoting Ying Shao’s Han Official Ceremonial of the Han Dynasty) Records of the Fengshan sacrifices (imperial ceremonies to Heaven) during the Jianwu era of the Eastern Han often referred to the emperor as "the State." The text vividly describes the treacherous climb and arduous journey:
At dawn, the ascent begins. The steep path forces riders to dismount frequently, leading their horses with great effort, alternating between riding and walking. Upon reaching the Mid-Mountain Terrace for rest, gazing up at the Heavenly Pass (Nantianmen) feels like viewing towering peaks from a valley floor—its loftiness akin to staring at drifting clouds.
The cliffs appear fathomless, seemingly pathless. From afar, travelers resemble figures walking on rotten wood, some like white stones, others like patches of snow, only gradually resolving into moving forms after prolonged observation. The mountain trail is excruciatingly difficult; exhausted, the group sprawls across rocks, sustained only by wine and provisions. Along the way, springs provide respite, and with mutual support, they press onward until finally reaching the Heavenly Gate (Nantianmen).
This passage describes an ancient journey to Mount Tai (Daiyue).
When first ascending the mountain, one might assume the summit is near, but locals would inform there remains over ten li of climbing ahead. The rugged path winds through towering crags and emerald pines that seem to touch the clouds, while peering downward reveals bottomless ravines. Travelers must navigate seven li of switchbacks resembling sheep's intestines—some stretches requiring rope-assisted climbs. Pilgrims support each other in single file, those behind seeing only the soles of the shoes before them, those ahead seeing only the crowns behind, forming a human chain like stacked arhat statues. Initially resting every dozen steps, soon needing pause after five or six, exhaustion eventually overcomes decorum as climbers collapse onto the ground regardless of its dampness.
The text notes several famed viewing platforms: Sunrise Peak (Riguan) reveals dawn's first light at cockcrow; Qin Platform offers distant views of Chang'an; Wu Platform gazes toward Kuaiji; Zhou Platform overlooks Mount Song. Yet the author observes these beautifully recorded vistas were curiously neglected by ancient scholars, leaving many accounts fragmentary.
The final passage recounts Shao Bowen's experience: lodging in a mountain dweller's thatched hut near the summit, he noticed medicinal herb furnaces outside surrounded by devil's arrow, gastrodia, and figwort herbs. Departing before dawn to Taiping Peak's summit—site of Emperor Zhenzong's Fengshan sacrifices—he wrapped himself in coarse cloth awaiting sunrise. First came the fading stars, then a glow kindling along the eastern horizon while valleys remained dark. Gradually, illuminated peaks emerged like reclining oxen and carriage canopies. As the last stars vanished, a crimson sun abruptly vaulted from darkness, soaring dozens of zhang high—its upper half blazing while the lower remained veiled in shadow.
This passage records the experiences of ancient officials and literati during their visits to Mount Tai (also known as Daiyue). It begins with a depiction of the mountain at dawn: sunlight already graced the summit while darkness still enveloped its base. As the sun rose higher, the mountain's hues gradually transformed, and around the third or fourth watch of the night (approximately 1-5 AM), they passed historical sites like the Zhen Temple and Zhangsu Lodge.
The text meticulously documents their itinerary: first passing Longkou Spring with its stone pillars and caverns, where water gushed from rock crevices resembling a dragon's maw; then ascending the perilous Eighteen Bends, from whose northern vantage point the mountain ranges of Qingzhou and Qizhou were clearly visible. It then details how during the Xuanhe era, Qian Boyan conducted an imperial inspection of Mount Tai's temples. Carrying incense and ritual offerings, he performed Daoist Zhaijiao ceremonies (sacrificial rites) at Huizhen Palace before touring scenic spots like the Daiyue Temple, Golden Mother Cave, and Green Emperor Temple with local officials and Daoist priests. After admiring the White Dragon Pool's remarkable springs and stones, they returned via Jilong Peak.
The Yuan Dynasty account by Du Renjie describes the Mount Tai pilgrimage of Zhang Xuanyou (an official title) from Dongping during the Zhiyuan era. This distinguished official, highly valued by the emperor for his administrative achievements, deliberately chose to depart three days before the Double Ninth Festival for his ceremonial visit. Despite encountering rainy weather en route, he persevered in paying respects at the Three Sages' Tombs and the Mountain Temple. As they ascended Xihua Gate, the shifting clouds created a mesmerizing spectacle—alternately overcast skies and intermittent drizzles veiled and unveiled three distant Daoist temples in the mist, their transient beauty astonishing the entire traveling party.
This passage records the author's experience and reflections while ascending Mount Tai (known as Daizong). The original plan to reach the summit was uncertain due to weather conditions, but they set out once the skies cleared. At the fifth watch (3–5 a.m.), when the clouds dispersed and stars shimmered, the author joined over three hundred companions—including local officials Zhang Rulin, Zhang Quan, and Wang Tianting—to ascend the mountain in sedan chairs.
After passing Huangxian Ridge, they rested and dined at the Hujia Spring before pausing briefly at the Imperial Tent. When they were less than fifteen li from the Heavenly Gate, the mountain path narrowed, flanked by dense forests. Through the gaps between trees, the sky appeared as clear as jade. By evening, they reached the summit, where the eastern peaks stretched endlessly like ink strokes against the horizon. At the stele of Li Si, only a few characters remained legible; the rest had eroded. Most cliff inscriptions left by past emperors at the Fengshan Altar had also faded, except for Emperor Xuanzong of Tang’s "Inscription Commemorating Mount Tai," whose large characters—each the size of a bowl—remained distinct, their gilded traces still faintly visible.
As night fell, the cold became as biting as midwinter, and the group huddled around fires, awaiting sunrise. At midnight, the author climbed from the Jade Maiden Pool to the Sun-Watching Peak, where the heavens and earth seemed purified of all dust. At dawn, the eastern clouds shifted dramatically, and when the sun emerged halfway, the scene resembled a golden Buddha-realm, leaving everyone in awe. Looking westward, the mountain’s shadow stretched to where the sun had set, its grandeur rivaling the Kunlun Mountains. Overwhelmed, the author exclaimed, "To witness Mount Tai’s true majesty three times on this ascent—my heart is satisfied!"
Reflecting, the author noted that in over thirty years since crossing the northern rivers, this was the ninth ascent—yet never before had such wonders appeared. The ancients spoke of heaven’s will as unyielding to human force, and this journey affirmed the Dao’s intolerance for falsehood. The author attributed this marvel to the sincerity of their companions, musing that while coincidences abound in worldly affairs, miracles like "parting rivers with a sword" or "reversing day and night" might hold deeper truths—much like Han Yu’s dispersal of Hengshan’s clouds. Finally, the author acknowledged the enduring veneration of Bixia Yuanjun (the Goddess of Mount Tai) but concluded that self-cultivation of virtue (De) surpasses divine entreaties.
This passage records the travels of Ming dynasty official Li Yu and his colleagues to Mount Tai. It begins by noting how Su Shi (style name Dongpo) once praised the sea of clouds at Mount Heng, and how their own journey would likewise leave its mark—thus they resolved to carve their observations in stone for posterity.
Setting out from Jinan, the group first paid homage at the Confucian Temple in Qufu before returning to Tai'an where they lodged at the government office. On the night of the first day of the third lunar month, Li Yu shared wine with censor Li Jingxian and agreed to climb the mountain together at dawn. The next morning, they rode out through the city gates to see mist clinging to the peaks like silken sashes. By chance, they encountered officials Ye Gongchen and Zhuang Shangyuan en route, and the four continued together.
Their journey took them first to White Crane Spring, where water gushed from stone crevices even in drought; a hundred paces west lay the ruins of the Combing-Washing Tower; another two li north brought them to the Queen Mother's Pool, whose sweet waters locals used for efficacious rain prayers. Fifty paces further north stood relics of Lü Yan (Lü Dongbin)—the Song dynasty pavilion had collapsed, leaving only stone statues and walls amidst lush vegetation.
As they reached the mountain's base at sunrise, radiant clouds illuminated the peaks' manifold postures. Along the ten-li path from the foothills to Dismounting Horse Ridge, cliffs stood opposed like fanged beasts while torrents roared through rocky gorges. The trail was strewn with boulders—some wheel-sized, others like earthen jars—making progress arduous. At Dismounting Horse Ridge, the slope grew so precipitous that neither carts nor horses could advance. Exhausted, the four travelers switched to palanquins borne by porters. Pushing through dense woods and scrambling over massive stones, they inched along four li of treacherous stone steps so narrow and steep that only single-file passage was possible.
After walking about two li (approximately 1 kilometer), we reached the place where Emperor Zhenzong of the Song Dynasty camped during his eastern pilgrimage to Mount Tai, known as the "Imperial Tent." The terrain here is flat, with lush trees casting abundant shade. Ahead lies a deep mountain stream, its dark green waters still as oil, reflecting the sky's shimmering light. Jagged rocks are scattered like broken teeth, while small dark fish dart through the water. As we stood by the stream admiring the scene, a Daoist priest surnamed Luo offered us tea and cakes. When I tossed cake crumbs into the water, the fish quickly gathered; later, Shangyuan threw a small stone, and they all vanished in an instant.
After another three li or so, we arrived at Huangxian Mountain. During the Qin Dynasty, five pine trees stood here, which the First Emperor of Qin had enfeoffed as "Five Grandees" during his imperial Fengshan sacrifices. After the ancient pines withered, later generations planted over a hundred replacements. Now, their gnarled trunks twist like coiling dragons ready to take flight. The four of us rested beneath them, marveling at this extraordinary sight.
Another two hundred paces ahead brought us to Hundred-Zhang Cliff. The rock formation resembles a house, spacious enough for over ten people. Peering down from the cliff's edge, we saw purple wisteria and green vines draping along the path. Nearby was a stone cave, its entrance dark and fathomless, too intimidating to venture inside.
Passing through Shibiyu Valley, we reached the Eighteen Bends. Two peaks stand facing each other like sheer walls, with a winding stone path spiraling five li up to the South Heavenly Gate. From afar, it looks like a ladder leaning against the mountainside—the most treacherous section of the journey. After crossing a small bridge, we ascended the winding path to the South Heavenly Gate, then walked east several li to Zhaozhen Temple. There, we changed into formal attire to pay respects to the Daoist goddess Purple Mist Primordial Sovereign (Zixia Yuanjun). When we asked the temple priests about its origins, they couldn't pinpoint its founding date, only saying that every spring, pilgrims flock here in droves, and those without sincere faith are swiftly met with retribution—something I've verified repeatedly.
Behind the temple, we examined the cliff-carved stele: the "Inscription Commemorating Mount Tai" erected by Emperor Xuanzong of Tang. The palm-sized characters have mostly eroded over time. A dozen paces east lies the edict of the First Emperor of Qin's Fengshan sacrifice, inscribed in small seal script by Chancellor Li Si. Half-buried in soil, the five-foot-tall stele has an irregular shape, neither perfectly square nor uniform on all sides. After scraping away grime, I discerned twenty-two lines with twelve characters each, though most were illegible.
A few steps west brought us to Taiping Peak, Mount Tai's highest point. At its summit lies a smooth, jet-black boulder ten feet square with sharp edges. The four of us rested there briefly, though Gongchen and Shangyuan, exhausted, could go no farther.
After leaving Zhaozhen Temple with Jingxian, we lifted our robes and hastened to the mountain summit. Looking down, we saw clustered peaks crouching like small mounds, while only the twin peaks of Shenxiao Peak towered majestically. The mountains were adorned with exotic flowers and rare herbs—crimson and white blossoms vied for brilliance in rocky valleys, while the calls of mystical birds and extraordinary creatures echoed continuously, forming the most wondrous scenery Mount Tai had to offer.
Gazing eastward, we beheld the 103 peaks including Riguan Peak, Wuguan Peak, and Zhouguan Peak stretching endlessly to the horizon. Even famous mountains like Songshan, Huashan, Hengshan, and Huoshan, as well as great rivers like the Yangtze, Han River, Yellow River, and Ji River were distinctly visible—confirming Mount Tai's status as the loftiest mountain under heaven. At noon, with crisp winds and clear air, we lingered until suddenly our spirits felt weightless, as if transcending the mundane world, forgetting we stood atop the nine heavens.
Descending eastward from the summit, we found the Jade Maiden Spring after several dozen steps—its sweet, refreshing water often used by Daoist priests for tea. Twenty paces further east lay Dragon's Mouth Spring, where water gushed from a boulder split like a dragon's maw, murmuring as it flowed. Then following a precipitous path forty steps south, we reached the Cliff of Self-Sacrifice at the precipice edge—a terrifying chasm below veiled by ancient trees. Peering down made our hair stand on end: a coffin-shaped boulder swayed perilously in the wind. The priests explained this was where cultivators "abandoned their bodies to become immortals." Hearing this, Jingxian and I were deeply disturbed, considering such teachings life-endangering, and ordered local officials to block the path.
West of the cliff rose five jagged peaks resembling lotus blossoms, hence named Lotus Peak. The western mountain's ridges spiraled eastward like layered screens, where a spring cascaded dozens of feet over rocks, forming a curtain-like wonder called Water Curtain Spring. Though places like Chicken Coop Peak and Peach Blossom Valley also held mystical scenery, thick brambles made them inaccessible. As the sun declined, we drank wine and composed poetry with two fellow Daoists, inscribing our verses on the temple's eastern wall.
Finally descending via Tianmen's ancient path at twilight, we paused midway. Looking back, the mountain's hues grew translucent while water rippled below. The figures of woodcutters and shepherd boys flickered among trees like painted figures, making us yearn to linger longer in the gathering dusk.
In my youth, while reading the Mencius and Gongyang Commentary, I came across accounts of Confucius ascending Mount Tai and feeling the world shrink before him, how its clouds and rains nourished all directions. Du Fu's famous line from "Gazing at Mount Tai" — "Creation concentrates here divine beauty" — further fueled my imagination of the mountain's towering majesty, its extraordinary flora, and traces of celestial wonders. These descriptions kindled a decade-long dream to personally ascend its heights and behold its splendors.
I recall how Cheng Mingdao (Cheng Hao) in his youth, upon hearing of Hua Mountain's beauty, specifically requested an official post in Huayin County to facilitate his visit. Now I find myself fortunate to serve under the administration of the Ming Dynasty's Chief Censor, during this era of benevolent governance where people dwell in peace, and doubly pleased to work alongside worthy colleagues. Seizing this leisure opportunity to ascend Mount Tai and fulfill my long-cherished wish is truly life's great joy. This accords with the Dao of balanced living between tension and relaxation, far removed from mere indulgence in pleasure-seeking.
(This account rivals Qiao Yu's travelogue in excellence, both being included by He Tang among the finest chapters of Records of Famous Mountains Ancient and Modern)
Qiao Yu (then Minister of Revenue) recorded in the fifth year of the Zhengde reign: When severe drought in Yan and Qi regions severed the Grand Canal's flow, the emperor ordered me on the fourteenth day of the fifth month to journey eastward and perform sacrifices at Mount Tai and the Eastern Sea. Though I had long desired to climb Mount Tai, I feared this rain-praying mission for disaster relief might prove unfitting for sightseeing should the sacrifices fail to bring rain. Setting forth with devout heart, heavy rains fell just beyond Dezhou, followed by nightlong downpours across Pingyuan, Yucheng, Tai'an, and Jinan regions. As farmers rejoiced, my own furrowed brow finally relaxed.
On the twenty-ninth day of the fifth month, I purified myself through ablutions and fasting, donned ritual vestments to inspect the offerings, and at cockcrow on the sixth month's first day, performed the sacrificial rites at the Eastern Peak Temple. Thunder and lightning interwove during the ceremony (auspicious portents), and upon its conclusion, I immediately commenced my ascent.
My heart was filled with trepidation: before the Qin and Han dynasties, seventy-two rulers had performed the Fengshan sacrifices on Mount Tai—this was indeed a sacred site of proven efficacy, as recorded in classical texts. When the First Emperor of Qin, with his tiger-and-wolf-like might, ascended with thousands of troops in tow, he was thwarted by a violent storm halfway and failed to complete the ceremony. Now, as thunder rumbled and rain threatened, I thought how exhausted men and weakened horses could never climb in such weather. Yet I reflected: if our hearts hold sincere reverence, could the sacred spirits of Mount Tai remain blind to it? Ultimately, my companions Hu, Zhang, and I began our ascent.
Dark clouds hung heavy as we walked five li to Hongmen Gate, where the skies gradually cleared. We followed the stone slope northwest, passing two ridges—Huima Ridge and Huangxian Ridge—before reaching the Five Ministers' Pines at Yuzhang Temple after another five li. These ancient pines, their gnarled roots intertwined, towered over twenty feet tall. Beyond the temple, stone steps led upward. After a meal, we pressed on through Xiaodalongkou Pass, winding fifteen li to South Heavenly Gate, then another three li to the summit.
The path coiled through fifty bends, with weather shifting between sun and shadow in indescribable patterns. We first paid homage at the Bixia Yuanjun Shrine, then climbed to the Dongyue Temple, where a colossal cliff inscription—twenty feet high and fifteen wide—bore the Mount Tai Eulogy in Emperor Xuanzong of Tang’s own hand, carved in clerical script during the Tianbao era. We inscribed our names there in commemoration.
At the summit’s Jade Emperor Hall stood a stele erected by the First Emperor for the Fengshan rites, also over twenty feet tall, its text encased in stone. The hall also preserved a stone casket from Emperor Zhenzong of Song’s reign, originally holding sixteen jade tablets. These were presented for imperial review during the Chenghua era and verified as documents for sacrifices to the Earth Goddess.
Eastward lay the Sunrise Peak, with a smaller stele bearing names. Nearby, the Gazing-at-the-Sea Rock—part of the Yueguan vista—offered distant views of Kuaiji Mountain. This massive boulder stood majestic atop the peak; captivated by its grandeur, I climbed it and inscribed "Gazing-at-the-Sea Rock" in large characters.
We then wandered to the Immortal’s Bridge and Wuhua Ridge. The sky stretched cloudless and sapphire-clear, expanding the mind’s horizons. To the northeast, Huabuzhu Mountain near Jinan City resembled a hut floating on water. Below, white clouds coiled upward from the mid-slopes, filling the valleys like an ethereal sea.
To the north of Mount Tai, one can gaze upon the capital; to the south, overlook the Huai River and the region of Xuzhou; to the west, survey the vast lands of Yan and Zhao; and to the east, behold the horizon where sea and sky merge. The view stretches so far that one can see the distant peaks of Kongtong (the legendary mountain where the Yellow Emperor sought the Dao from Guangchengzi), Danxue (a sacred site for Daoist alchemy), Taiping, and Taimeng. Truly, this is one of the world's rare and magnificent vistas.
After a vegetarian meal at the Daoist temple, I inscribed a poem in seal script on a small stone tablet. Lingering to admire the scenery until dusk, I paused to leave inscriptions on peculiarly shaped cliff rocks along the way. By the time I descended and returned to the city of Tai'an, the night watch drums had already sounded.
The top scholar Luo Hongxian (from Jishui, Jiangxi) inscribed at the "Place Where Confucius Ascended": Mencius once said that when Confucius climbed Mount Dong, he felt the state of Lu shrink in significance, and when he ascended Mount Tai, the entire world seemed small. Just as those who have seen the ocean are rarely captivated by ordinary rivers, those who have studied under the sages are seldom moved by commonplace words. Observing water's flow teaches us to appreciate its waves; the radiance of the sun and moon illuminates even the tiniest crevices. Water that does not stagnate in hollows will continue to flow forward, and a nobleman pursuing the Great Dao (the highest truth of Confucianism) will not cease until he reaches a certain state. This illustrates that the greatness of the sages lies in their unwavering dedication to learning. Even Confucius, the supreme sage, began his journey at fifteen, resolving to study, and after ten years reached the stage of "standing firm at thirty," and another decade later, "being free from doubts at forty." Thus, the cultivation of a nobleman is like climbing a mountain—one must start from the lowest point. There has never been anyone who achieved the highest state without following the Middle Way.
Later, I recalled the words of You Ruo (a disciple of Confucius): "With Confucius in the world, it is like Mount Tai towering over a small mound." To emulate the sages, one must practice with perseverance. The true concern is not whether one can reach the highest state, but whether one can persist in practice. When Grand Secretary Zhu Zhenshan governed Shandong, despite his busy official duties, he prioritized honoring the traces of the sages, traveling thousands of miles to request inscriptions. Inspired by this, I traced the lineage of ancient scholarship, freely expressing my thoughts and erecting a stele beside the inscription for later generations to contemplate.
Hanlin Compiler Li Xueshi (from Pingdu, Shandong), in his Brief Record of Ascending Mount Tai, lamented: The mountain remains the same! Before ascending, one gazes up and finds it towering and unattainable; upon reaching the summit, the heights become the ground beneath one's feet; and when descending, the lowlands again appear as peaks. The shifting ridges and the interplay of mist and light are not changes in the mountain itself but in the perspective of the climber. People chase wealth and status like fleeting clouds, losing their true nature, and mistake these transient pursuits for something as enduring as Mount Tai. How is this any different from those who judge the mountain without ever having climbed it? This realization suddenly made me grasp the truth within.
This passage documents the journey of Ming Dynasty official Shang Jiong (holding the position of Councilor) and his colleagues Wang Shiyong, Liu Tinggui, and Pan Yingchang as they visited Mount Tai. In the spring of the Bingwu year of the Chenghua era (1486), they set a date to depart from Jinan. On the evening of the seventh day of the first lunar month (Dingmao day), they first lodged at Lingyan Temple, arriving at Tai'an Prefecture the following day and meeting with other companions on the third day.
At dawn on the tenth day, the group first paid respects at the Dongyue Shrine (the temple of Mount Tai) in the Caocan Pavilion before taking sedan chairs northward out of the city. They followed the classic ascent route: starting from the Hongmen Road, passing Gaolao Bridge and the Water Curtain Cave, and resting briefly at the Yanyan Pavilion. They then traversed increasingly steep paths such as Mapeng Cliff and Maling before reaching Huangxian Ridge, where the terrain leveled into the more relaxed "Kuaihuo San" section. Continuing upward, they passed the site of the imperial encampment where Emperor Zhenzong of the Song Dynasty once stayed, then climbed the famous perilous path of the "Eighteen Bends" before finally reaching the South Heavenly Gate.
Upon summiting, they paid homage to the Bixia Yuanjun (the Goddess of Mount Tai) at Zhaozhen Palace and visited the Dongyue Divine Shrine behind it, where they saw the cliff inscriptions left during the Kaiyuan era of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty. At the Dengfeng Platform, they observed the legendary wordless stele said to have been erected by Qin Shi Huang. They then toured renowned sites such as the Riguan Peak and the Sheshen Cliff, gazing into the distance at peaks like the Zhangren Peak and Mount Culai, while the Wen and Pan Rivers shimmered like white ribbons below. Locals told them that on clear autumn days, one could even see the East Sea from here.
The officials drank and admired the scenery in a side chamber of Zhaozhen Palace and later at the Yanyan Pavilion. As twilight fell and their spirits rose with mild intoxication, they felt transcendent, as if about to soar across the vast ocean and ascend beyond the cosmos. The text concludes by noting that due to the late hour, they were unable to visit attractions at the mountain's base, such as Lü Yan's Cave, the Queen Mother's Pool, and the White Crane Spring. The account vividly records the route, landscapes, and reflections of Ming literati ascending Mount Tai.
This passage records the travels and reflections of Ming Dynasty literati at Mount Tai (the sacred Eastern Peak, foremost among China's Five Great Mountains). It begins by describing how the breathtaking scenery of the mountain's lesser peaks and secluded valleys defies complete description. The group exited through the western city gate, first paying respects at the Jade Maiden Temple (dedicated to the Taoist goddess Bixia Yuanjun), then venturing to Haoli Mountain (a small peak on Tai's southern slope where Taoist tradition holds departed souls gather). They explored the Cave of Ghost Immortals but dared not venture too deep due to the overwhelming Yin energy.
The text then documents the refined gathering of four officials: Tinggui departing for Dongyan on official business, the author bound for Qinglai, Yingchang leaving for other counties, while only Shiyong remained to serve in Tai'an. They held a farewell banquet, drinking freely throughout the night. The author reflects that Mount Tai stands as one of the world's wonders, and such a gathering of four companions was a rare occasion worthy of record, as such convivial meetings could hardly be replicated.
The latter portion focuses on the "Gazing Upon the Sea" stone inscription. It mentions how Tang Dynasty calligraphy masters Yan Zhenqing (the "Yan" of the famed "Yan's tendons and Liu's bones" style) achieved renown for his loyal martyrdom, while Liu Gongquan ("Liu") was celebrated for his upright remonstrations—their moral character being as enduring as their brushwork. The text then praises contemporary official Master Zhang (the venerable Xinzhai), whose moral integrity rivals the ancients while surpassing them in calligraphic artistry. When wielding the brush, his composure radiates spiritual tranquility (Shen), producing characters of solemn vigor that transcend even the Yan-Liu tradition. Yet the world values his governance more, considering calligraphy merely a minor art. The "Gazing Upon the Sea" inscription exemplifies this—its strokes shimmer like mountains competing with oceans, embodying both Mount Tai's majestic presence (as the sacred Daizong) and the sea's unfathomable depth, subtly echoing the Dao De Jing's philosophy that "the highest virtue resembles water."
A colophon reveals this text was carved beside Mount Tai's Yanyan Pavilion by "Tanglingzi" in the ninth year of the Jiajing reign (1530). Fifteen years later, when friends revisited the stele, they added further reflections. Another notable inscription—"Gazing Upon the Sea" by Ye Fen (Education Intendant of the Surveillance Commission)—became one of Mount Tai's celebrated cultural landmarks.
This passage records the travel accounts of two Ming Dynasty officials visiting a stone grotto on Mount Tai.
First is the travelogue by Yao Kui (then serving as a circuit official): Several li east of Mount Tai lies a stone grotto, traditionally believed to be the cultivation site of the Bixia Yuanjun (the Goddess of Mount Tai). Seizing leisure time from official duties, Yao made the journey. As the mountain path proved too narrow for sedan chairs, he changed into plain clothes, fastened a leather belt, grasped a short staff, donned straw sandals, and followed Daoist priest Liu Jiaohong as guide. After three or four li, the path disappeared entirely, forcing them to part weeds and climb steep cliffs. The increasingly perilous ascent revealed terrifying precipices below that chilled them with fear. Another three li brought them around a ridge to the grotto, where four gaunt Daoists greeted them amid pine forests.
The grotto presented marvelous sights: Above rose iron-like peaks sharp as if chiseled, while before it lay half a mu of level ground. Inside the cave, the deep interior proved surprisingly bright and spacious, with jade-like stalactite pillars formed in crevices—some ten arm-spans thick and over ten feet tall. The rock walls bore handprints said to belong to Bixia Yuanjun, and a stone bed behind marked her resting place. To the left, a passage led upward to the summit, where a stone pavilion could seat three or four people, though icy conditions prevented ascent. Nearby lay an eternal sacred spring that never dried, while below stood the peculiarly shaped Ox-Heart Stone and the fathomless Crane-Washing Pool, where immortal cranes had reportedly responded to human voices with their cries—a veritable realm of true transcendence utterly distinct from the mundane world.
The author reflects: Most visitors confine themselves to Mount Tai's main routes, unaware of this grotto's wonders. Though his own visit came late in life, he considers himself fortunate—many heroic souls never encounter such sacred sites in their entire lifetime.
The latter section by Li Rong (Education Official of Tai'an Prefecture) adds: At Mount Tai's summit stands a shrine dedicated to Bixia Yuanjun, the immortal essence born of the sacred mountain. This account echoes the grotto legends, affirming the goddess' central position in Mount Tai's spiritual tradition.
Mount Tai (the sacred Eastern Peak of the Five Great Mountains) serves as an abode of divine beings, its spiritual potency resonating with celestial phenomena and manifesting extraordinary efficacy. Each year, hundreds of thousands of devotees from across the land flock here shoulder to shoulder, burning incense and praying for blessings. Pilgrims kneel in pious reverence, vying to make monetary offerings that often amount to tens of thousands in currency.
Much of the government's tax revenue, official salaries, and operational expenses are drawn from these sacred funds without burdening the common people, thereby allowing exhausted communities to recuperate. Since this system both enriches the state treasury and benefits the populace, its management is of utmost importance—how could such responsibility be entrusted to incompetent hands?
In the yiyou year of the Jiajing reign (1525), supervising officials carefully selected incorruptible and capable county magistrates to oversee operations. At that time, Assistant Prefect Yao Xueyu of Dongchang Prefecture was appointed Chief Inspector. He declared: "Financial authority may tempt worldly officials, but we should regard it with the detachment of a crane observing earthworms—how could we allow the slightest greed to defile ourselves?" He then assembled all staff to swear oaths before the deities, demanding meticulous management that left no room for personal profiteering. From early winter through the following spring, they collected over thirty thousand strings of cash equivalent in gold, silver, and livestock (excluding offerings of pearls, jade, and silks)—a thirty percent increase from previous years—all properly recorded and delivered to the provincial treasury as annual funds.
Master Yao governed with incorruptible benevolence, enforcing strict yet reasonable regulations. Though exacting with subordinates, he championed frugality; while reverent toward scholars, he extended humane kindness. During his six-month tenure, he subsidized official expenses from his own purse, even distributing his Dongchang salary to impoverished students. The government meal allowances he converted into fodder for official horses. Such self-sacrificial conduct would be unbearable for most, yet he embraced it willingly.
At Mount Tai's summit stands a sheer cliff called "Life-Abandoning Precipice," where misguided women seeking to prove chastity would leap to their deaths—a practice mistakenly glorified as heroic. Master Yao strictly prohibited this and personally funded wooden railings at the perilous "Happy-Three" fork (a deceptively gentle slope bordering deadly drops where nighttime accidents were frequent), saving numerous lives thereafter. When judicial commissions entrusted him with legal cases, he adjudicated with flowing ease. Outside the city walls, hundreds of inns had suffered extortionate fees under previous officials. "Like snails surviving on their own mucus," he sighed, "how could we bear to exploit them?" Elders like Zou Yu sought to erect a stele commemorating his virtuous deeds to inspire posterity, commissioning me to compose this record.
This passage records the journey of Ming Dynasty official Gao Hai during his visit to Mount Tai. A native of Haiyu (present-day Changshu region in Jiangsu province), Gao was a man of profound learning. In the winter of 1526 (5th year of the Jiajing reign), he was transferred from Qingcheng to assume the position of Donglai Sima and was dispatched to Mount Tai to oversee official matters.
Located north of the prefectural city, Mount Tai rises over 40,000 chi (approximately 1,300 meters) and stretches nearly 200 li, featuring seventy-two famous peaks with countless spectacular rock formations and breathtaking scenery. Since ancient times, it has been regarded as the foremost of the Five Sacred Mountains, with no earthly peak surpassing its majesty.
Gao Hai had previously ascended Mount Tai in haste during his journey to the capital for imperial examinations, but the bitter cold had prevented proper sightseeing. This time, he began his formal excursion on March 6, 1523 (2nd year of Jiajing): Departing from the northern city gate, he crossed two small bridges and observed ancient cypresses planted during Emperor Wu of Han's eastern imperial sacrifices. Passing through Red Gate, Flying Cloud Pavilion, Robing Pavilion and other sites, he witnessed local villagers gathering medicinal herbs by the streams. Continuing onward past Gao Lao Bridge (with its Guandi Temple) and Water Curtain Cave (where a waterfall cascaded like white silk), he reached Cliff Pavilion for panoramic views.
The route then led past Horse Shed Cliff and Turning Horse Ridge, where the mountain path grew increasingly treacherous yet remained shaded by dense woods, with economically valuable pepper, plum and apricot trees growing on the slopes. Most fascinating was the Huangxian Ridge section—a winding path that first turned west, then northeast, ascending and descending repeatedly across three li. Travelers who had struggled up steep trails found this level stretch particularly relieving, earning it the name "Happy Three." To the west, lush bamboo groves covered the rocky cliffs.
The text meticulously documents Mount Tai's geographical features and travel routes, with special attention to the distinctive terrain of the "Happy Three" section and scenic spots along the way—including temples, ancient trees and waterfalls—demonstrating the Ming literati's keen observational skills during mountain excursions.
At the very spot where Emperor Qin Shi Huang once took shelter from rain on Mount Tai, five ancient pines stood tall, reaching dozens of feet high. Having sheltered beneath them during a storm, he later conferred upon these trees the honorary title "Pines of the Grand Officer." The temple monks offered us pine flower cakes, delightfully sweet and fragrant, followed by tea from Dongyan (a location on Mount Tai), its flavor clear and refreshing with a hint of pleasant bitterness.
Continuing five li further, we arrived at the Great and Small Dragon's Mouth, where sheer cliffs rose on both sides, and waterfalls gushed from crevices in the rock. Ancient pines twisted along the cliff faces, their forms sinuous and lively like coiling dragons. Another five li brought us to the Eighteen Bends, where catalpas, oaks, wild crabapples, mountain pomegranates, and kiwi trees lined the path, some in bloom, others bearing fruit. The stone steps, arranged like teeth, seemed to pierce the clouds—gazing upward, the ascent appeared nearly impossible. Bending low and clinging to the rocks, we finally reached the mouth of the gorge at the end of the winding path.
At the highest point stood a stone gate inscribed with the three large characters "Southern Heavenly Gate," beside which was the Temple of the Three Numinous Ones. Heading northeast for two li brought us to the Shrine of the Primordial Lord (a Taoist temple dedicated to the Azure Dawn Primordial Lord). To its left lay a square stone pool called the Jade Maiden Spring, its waters sweet and pure, rivaling famous springs when brewed into tea. Further northeast stood the Shrine of the Mountain Spirit's Inscription, behind which were two Tang Dynasty cliff carvings: one recording the Fengshan sacrifices of the Kaiyuan era, the other a hymn from the Qianfeng era's imperial pilgrimage. Nearby were many ancient inscriptions, though sadly moss had obscured them beyond recognition.
Climbing northward to the summit, we found the Shrine of the Jade Emperor (dedicated to the Supreme Deity of Taoism). Before it stood a stone over ten feet long, locally known as the "Qin Emperor's Wordless Stele." Turning southeast, we reached Sunrise Peak, said to offer spectacular dawn views at cockcrow. Here lay a square stone chest, about ten feet across, reportedly washed out by rain during the Chenghua era of the Ming Dynasty. It had contained jade divination tablets (ancient ritual jades), later reburied by imperial envoys.
West of Sunrise Peak rose the lofty Qin Viewing Peak, while slightly south stood the solitary Yue Viewing Peak. Below them yawned the Ten Thousand Zhang Cliff, called the "Cliff of Self-Sacrifice," with the Testing Heart Rock and Immortal's Bridge on its right. From this vantage, the eastern horizon stretched to the vast sea, the Yellow River plunging as if poured from heaven, while the Wen River coiled like a slender thread. To the southwest, myriad mountains prostrated themselves like heaps of rice grains—only Mount Culai and Mount Ni (Confucius' birthplace) were faintly discernible. Nearby peaks each bore distinctive forms: some resembled an old man (Old Man Peak), others a returning goose, still others a lotus or bright moon. The Eastern and Western Divine Empyrean Peaks floated amidst clouds, vying in splendor. Countless nameless peaks paid reverent homage to the central summit, composing a scene of awe-inspiring majesty. When I first arrived, only jagged rocks and piercing mountain winds greeted me.
This passage depicts the author's experiences and reflections while ascending Mount Tai (known as Daizong) during the Double Ninth Festival. The text describes the mountain scenery where babbling streams, pine and bamboo groves, and the echoing sounds of woodcutters' axes intertwine. The spring water tastes sweet, wild vegetables are delicious, and the mountain's hues shift beautifully with the seasons—particularly the wondrous winter vistas and vibrant spring colors, though most visitors miss the full spectrum due to limited time. Stationed there for official duties, the author had the rare opportunity to dwell extensively, deeply absorbing the mountain's varied moods and traces of ancient travelers, considering this ascent uniquely rewarding.
Huang Ao (then serving as Assistant Surveillance Commissioner), stationed at Dezhou during the summer of 1545 (Jiajing reign, Yisi year) for autumn defense preparations, set out in early September upon hearing of Imperial Censor Huang's eastern inspection tour to greet him. Coinciding with the Double Ninth Festival, Prefect Zhong Yanyong suggested emulating the ancient tradition of mountain climbing. They modified their sedan chairs for the ascent and departed at dawn. Upon reaching the summit under clear skies and crisp autumn winds, they sat atop the Jade Emperor Peak, touching the uninscribed stele while gazing at the imperial landscape encircled by peaks—the winding Yellow River and towering Kunlun Mountains unfolding in majestic panorama.
As dusk fell, the mountain resonated with birdsong and myriad natural sounds. The author's mind expanded in serene delight, as if merging with the vast Qi (vital energy) of heaven and earth, attaining spiritual communion enough to pay homage to Taiyi (a revered Daoist deity) and wander the cosmos with him. This travelogue not only captures Mount Tai's natural splendor but also conveys the author's transcendent detachment from worldly concerns.
This passage recounts the author's experience ascending Mount Tai (foremost of the Five Sacred Peaks and a Daoist holy site) and the insights gained. At dawn on Riguan Peak, he witnessed extraordinary celestial phenomena: dark clouds rising while yellow clouds descended, until suddenly a cinnabar-red dot pierced through the mist like flame radiating crimson light. When the sun partially emerged between clouds shortly after, this marvel vanished with the brightening sky.
Descending past Water Curtain Cave, he heard of stone inscriptions by Wang Xizhi (the Eastern Jin calligrapher known by his Daoist name "Right Army Official") to the east, though treacherous terrain prevented verification. Later, he discovered a massive flat stone like a whetstone bearing bold, archaic characters still remarkably clear after millennia. Some carvings had been damaged by falling rocks or water erosion, prompting reflection on how even Heaven's creations seem subject to limitations. The monumental style differed markedly from Wang's surviving small-regular script, raising authenticity doubts.
His westward search for Bamboo Grove Chan Temple proved fruitless, but revealed landscapes reminiscent of Lanting Pavilion in Kuaiji: a hundred-zhang waterfall named "White Dragon Pool" where rain rituals were performed; meandering streams perfect for the ancient floating wine cup ceremony; solitary rocks for meditation; and poetic vistas of mountains and water. Another snow-white boulder lay horizontally—smaller than the scripture valley carvings yet curiously devoid of inscriptions.
Fellow traveler Liu Yizhu later obtained rubbings revealing Yuan Dynasty Tianli era (1328-1330) recluses as the creators. The author marveled at his fortune as a southerner beholding northern landscapes in later years, embracing both spatial and temporal wonders. The local prefect remarked that despite Chongyang festival ascents to consult classical texts, he'd never encountered such records—deeming them worthy of preservation. The account closes with rhythmic verse contrasting "Tai Shan's majesty against Chongyang's melancholy," channeling contemplative nostalgia.
Cultural details like the ancient yu rain sacrifice, the Shangsi Festival's floating wine cups (3rd day/3rd month), and the Tianli reign era subtly embody Daoist values of natural harmony and eremitic spirituality.
Standing atop the summit of Mount Tai, where the towering peaks pierce the clouds, one rides celestial winds that stir the soul. The fragrant jade pendants sway gracefully at my waist as I drink chrysanthemum wine, intoxicated by its lingering warmth. Though I yearn to trace the footsteps of ancient sages, their traces elude me—leaving me to gaze at the boundless heavens and voice my questions.
Hong Chaoxuan, a Ming dynasty official, explains in his Discourse on the Pivot of Heaven and the Bonds of Earth why Mount Tai is called the "pivot of Heaven and the bonds of Earth." Citing the Records of the Grand Historian: Treatise on the Feng and Shan Sacrifices, he notes that the ancient state of Qi was named for its position at the center of Heaven and Earth, much like the human body has a navel. Mount Tai, in the grand scheme of the empire, stands as a steadfast pillar, securing stability in all directions. Though today it is known as the sacred mountain of the East, from a broader perspective, it still occupies a central position. The region of Jinan, where Mount Tai is located, was historically part of Qi, making the term qianshu ("pivot of Heaven") fitting, while kunwei ("bonds of Earth") aptly conveys its unshakable firmness.
Hong Chaoxuan further likens Mount Tai to the human heart: just as the mountain stands at the center, so too does the heart occupy a central place within a person. The stability of the heart mirrors the mountain's steadfastness—yet people often overlook this truth. Benevolence is the very essence of Heaven and Earth's nurturing of all life, while propriety, righteousness, integrity, and shame form the four cardinal bonds that uphold the human heart. But some instead harm living beings, pursuing nothing but profit. Observing the crowds of pilgrims jostling their way up the mountain, most seeking blessings or warding off misfortune, he admonishes them: Why not turn inward and examine your own heart? If one can preserve benevolence and uphold propriety, righteousness, integrity, and shame, then even without leaving home, one may attain a stability as unshakable as Mount Tai.
The Ming dynasty literary figure Wang Shizhen records his own journey to Mount Tai in Account of a Visit to Mount Tai, detailing his travels during the wuwu and jiwei years (though the exact dates remain unspecified).
This passage records the author's three ascents of Mount Tai (Taishan), the most noteworthy being the second attempt. The first ascent occurred at the end of the first lunar month. After paying respects at the Divine Terrace in Qingyuan, the author returned with Song Taiwu, an official in charge of maritime affairs, and stayed overnight at the government hostel. Around midnight, opening the northern window, they saw what appeared to be a white silk ribbon stretching from the mountain's base to its summit—or perhaps countless fireflies flickering within an invisible sack. These were actually devout pilgrims carrying lanterns in single file to worship Bixia Yuanjun (the Goddess of Mount Tai). Faint prayers for blessings could be heard drifting through the night air.
The second ascent began at dawn but was met with overcast skies and dense fog that reduced visibility to less than ten paces. The author could only sense the journey by the rising of the sedan chair bearers' front steps, which forced him to lean forward. Upon reaching the summit, no scenery was visible, and the cold proved unbearable. Song Taiwu, eager to descend, drank several cups of wine at Fengdu Palace to warm up, later expressing deep regret over the trip.
The third ascent took place on the first day of the sixth lunar month, when the author and Censor Duan Jun arranged to climb while inspecting Tai'an. Finding their retinue too cumbersome, the author and Councilor Xu Wentong set out a day early. After the rain, the skies cleared, revealing wheat fields interwoven in gold and green like embroidery, dense tree canopies alive with birdsong. The winding mountain path was perilous, with peaks confronting each other like wild beasts locked in combat. Mountain springs sobbed among jagged rocks, their murmurs harmonizing with distant reed-pipe melodies.
At Huima Ridge, they switched to bamboo sedan chairs. Four li later, they reached Yuzhang Rock (where Emperor Zhenzong of Song supposedly halted his Fengshan ritual procession). Before the rock lay a smooth white stone ravine resembling polished jade. Another three li brought them to Huangxian (a place of uncertain origin), where two ancient pines, known as the "Five Grandee Pines," grew. Pressed by surrounding boulders, their branches twisted dramatically despite sparse foliage—likely three centuries old. Nearby, Hundred-Zhang Cliff curved inward like a hollowed-out chamber, flanked by grotesque rock formations.
This passage from The History of Mount Tai describes the experience of ascending the sacred mountain. The climb begins at the Eighteen Bends, where the path is so steep that those ahead can see the tops of heads behind them, while those behind glimpse only the soles of shoes in front—a scene resembling layered brushstrokes in a painting. Nowadays the trail has been improved, and sedan chair bearers carry passengers, pausing every five or six steps to rest. They pay no mind to damp ground, simply grateful whenever dry patches spare their feet discomfort.
After traversing three sections of the Eighteen Bends, one passes through a cave called the "Heavenly Gate." At the summit, fierce gales threaten to blow hats clean off. Daoist priests clad in feathered robes emerge intermittently from the mist, playing ceremonial music—an uncanny sight. Another half-mile brings travelers to the Shrine of the Primordial Sovereign (dedicated to Bixia Yuanjun, the goddess of Mount Tai). Accounts of her origins vary—some identify her as the Jade Maiden of Mount Hua. The temple thrives with incense offerings, generating tens of thousands in annual donations, a portion remitted to local authorities. Adjacent stands an imperial censor's residence, while behind the shrine lies a three-foot stele bearing the seal script of Li Si, Chancellor of the Qin dynasty.
A further mile leftward lies the Shrine of the Sacred Mountain (dedicated to the deity of Mount Tai). Though architecturally modest, it attracts fervent devotion. Nearby cliffs bear Tang Emperor Xuanzong's Mount Tai Inscription in clerical script—the characters appear to dance across the stone, though the lower portion was blackened and damaged when rubbing-makers lit fires for warmth during winter. To the right stands Su Ting's Ode to the Eastern Feng Sacrifice in elegant, legible calligraphy, regrettably marred by later carvings of "Loyalty, Filial Piety, Integrity, and Moral Courage." Even Yan Zhenqing's signature inscription was defaced by Fang Yuanhuan's poetic engraving—ironically, moss-covered carvings fare better, as they can still be cleaned and deciphered.
Several hundred paces northward stands the Jade Emperor Shrine at Mount Tai's absolute summit. Before it rises a ten-foot yellow rectangular stone pillar with exquisite grain patterns—the legendary "Wordless Stele of Qin Shi Huang." This stone isn't native to the mountain; some claim it was transported and capped with stele fragments. According to Li Yu's records, the partially buried monolith appears neither perfectly square nor rectangular, with uneven sides revealing two faint lines of inscription upon close inspection.
This passage describes the author's observations and reflections while visiting Mount Tai (Dai Zong).
The text begins by mentioning a twelve-character stone inscription that has become nearly illegible, with the author regretting not having made a rubbing of it in time. Traveling eastward, the author ascends and descends slopes before arriving at a stone chamber as tall as the Jade Emperor Temple. Inside lies a crystalline stone slab about ten feet square, said to be where Emperor Wu of the Han stored the "golden mud and jade-sealed documents" (imperial edicts used in the Fengshan sacrifices). Local legend claims this is the site referred to in the saying, "White clouds rise from within the seal."
Ahead lies an open area known as the "Qin Viewing Platform" or "Yue Viewing Platform." The author explains that these names are quite literal: the sunrise-viewing spot is called the "Sun Platform," the westward-facing view of Qin territory is the "Qin Platform," and the southward-facing view of Yue territory is the "Yue Platform." Later generations, however, often forced elaborate interpretations onto these mountain names.
At the time, heavy fog made lingering difficult, so the author and a companion, Master Xu, drank wine and composed poetry until the third watch (around midnight). They agreed to rise at the fifth watch (before dawn) to watch the sunrise but overslept. By daylight, they set out again with walking sticks as the weather cleared. In the southeast, a faint shimmering whiteness was likely the sea, while in the northwest, a bluish-green expanse resembling the crenellations of the Great Wall must have been the Taihang, Hengshan, and Songshan mountain ranges. Nearby peaks appeared as mere mounds, with only Mount Culai standing out distinctly.
The author and Master Xu discussed the legend of the "White Horse at Wu Gate" (where Confucius supposedly saw a white horse in Wu while atop Mount Tai), agreeing that it was probably unreliable. However, they affirmed the truth of Confucius' saying, "Having ascended Mount Tai, the world below seems small." Suddenly, hundreds of white clouds rose from the mountains—at first the size of mats, then swiftly expanding into a jade-like sea of mist, while the sky remained a clear, unbroken blue, creating a striking contrast between heaven and earth. Drinking wine and admiring the view, the author and Master Xu considered this a once-in-a-lifetime spectacle, a vivid manifestation of Zhuangzi's description: "The wild horses of the air, the dust of the earth" (depicting the ever-shifting clouds). Just then, their friend Master Duan arrived with his attendants.
This passage recounts an amusing incident during several officials' excursion to Mount Tai (referred to as Dai). The group included Administrative Commissioner Zhang Xiju, Vice Commissioner Li Song, Assistant Commissioners Wang Lin and Zhang Shijie, who held a banquet beneath the cypress trees south of the Jade Emperor Temple. These trees were said to have been planted by Emperor Wu of Han—originally numbering over a thousand, with the largest requiring fifteen or sixteen people to encircle their trunks. Now, less than a tenth remained, with younger trees likely descendants of the ancient ones.
During a break from the feast, they strolled to the Cliff of Self-Sacrifice. The cliff's edge had a three-foot gap overlooking unfathomable depths. Zhang Xiju was too frightened to approach, and even Wang Lin, who had been eloquently discoursing on military strategy during the banquet, hesitated. Zhang teased him: "When discussing warfare, no one dared contradict you—yet now you don't dare step forward either?" The narrator chuckled and explained, "This is precisely the subtlety of military tactics—knowing when to advance and when to withdraw," which made Wang burst into laughter.
The next day's planned ascent was thwarted by continuous heavy rain. The narrator shared quarters with Xu, while Zhang and Wang's lodgings leaked so badly they had to move in. Nearly two feet of water accumulated inside, forcing them to lay mats on long tables to sleep. Clerks served wine and food bare-chested as the group debated affairs of state, with Zhang interjecting humorous remarks. After four such days, the rain eased slightly, but at night Wang Lin kept reciting poetry like a winter cicada, even tugging the narrator's ear for critiques of his verses.
During a clear night, the stars appeared as large as wine cups, seemingly within arm's reach. But dawn brought more downpours, and with provisions exhausted, they bid farewell to Duan and descended. The bitter cold had some wearing five layers of silk still shivering, even borrowing Taoist priests' padded robes. At Heaven's Gate, the rain stopped and sun emerged—they shed one garment at each bend of the Eighteen Bends trail. By Royal Screen Rock, a twenty-zhang waterfall resembling a white dragon spewing pearls sent spray flying. Seized by inspiration, the narrator stood barefoot on a boulder midstream, drinking deeply and singing loudly, with companions joining in chorus.
This passage records the Ming Dynasty official Wang Shimao's experience and reflections while ascending Mount Tai (known as Daizong, the Supreme Mountain). He describes climbing to the Sunrise Peak before dawn to witness daybreak: as the eastern sky first brightened, he saw his own robes and those of his attendants turn crimson, followed by the stone chambers and inscribed steles taking on a red hue, until finally a blazing sun slowly emerged from the sea of clouds—as if escorted by the Lord of Clouds and Master of Thunder (Daoist deities of clouds and lightning) with golden branches and emerald banners forming a celestial procession.
The author mentions having climbed Mount Tai three times to fully appreciate its wonders, enumerating numerous famed peaks and scenic spots such as Returning Goose Peak, Chicken Coop Peak, Lotus Flower Peak, Moonlight Peak, and Elder's Peak, along with extraordinary landforms like Hundred-Zhang Cliff, Horse Shed Cliff, and Pigeon Valley—yet admits many other magnificent vistas remained unexplored. He reflects how since ancient times seventy-two monarchs performed the Fengshan sacrifices (imperial heaven-earth rituals) here, though even later scholars of vast learning could scarcely recount their full grandeur.
The account concludes by noting this was written seventeen years after the event, composed upon returning from Mount Wudang (the Great Harmony Mountain), and includes ten seven-character regulated poems. The colophon identifies the author as Wang Shimao, Vice Minister of the Court of Imperial Sacrifices (from Taicang, Jiangsu), recording this in autumn of the intercalary eighth month during the Wanli era's dingchou year (1577). He mentions this eastern journey fulfilled one of his life's three great regrets—the pilgrimage to Mount Tai.
The passage recounts the author's journey to Mount Tai (Taishan) to pay respects to his late friend Li Yulin (styled Yulin).
For twenty years, the author had neglected to visit the sacred sites of Mount Tai (Que Li) and the Confucian Forest (Kong Lin). Now eight years had passed since Li Yulin's death without proper memorial rites. Fearing lifelong regret should he delay further, the author embarked despite illness. Along the way, he met traveling colleagues and inquired about directions from official Geng in Dezhou, learning the route through Pingyuan, Yucheng, Qihe southward to Changqing as the path to Mount Tai.
Originally intending to visit Li's grave in Qihe incognito to avoid official attention, the author was relieved when Li's son Li Ju informed him the tomb actually lay beside the Changqing road, eliminating the need for secrecy. Upon finding the burial mound, he was saddened to see only a simple earthen mound without enclosure walls or marker trees—utterly unrecognizable without Li Ju's guidance. With deep emotion, the author conducted memorial rites with wine offerings, burned sacrificial writings and poems, then departed in tears.
Arriving in Changqing, he learned his traveling companions Officials Shu and Chen were still at the famed Lingyan Temple and sent word to arrange a joint visit. The journey continued through cold night winds and frosty dawn paths. About three li into the mountains, they encountered a majestic stone bridge spanning the valley, with distant peaks encircling like natural ramparts as temple structures emerged intermittently from the verdant landscape.
(Note: "Yulin" refers to Li Panlong, the Ming Dynasty literatus; "Que Li" denotes Mount Tai; "Kong Lin" is Confucius's cemetery; "Lingyan Temple" is a renowned ancient monastery at Mount Tai)
Here in the deep tranquility of Mount Tai, after paying respects to the Bodhisattva at the temple entrance, I immediately went to visit Masters Shu and Chen. They casually recited a poem to apologize for the modest hospitality, though they had already prepared a vegetarian feast in waiting. After the meal, they arranged sedan chairs for us, with two monks leading the way to tour the mountain's renowned sites.
Below Lingyan Temple hangs a standing stone resembling a human figure, called Langgong Stone. The stone pool (Shizhao) contains crystal-clear spring water, sheltered by a pavilion. A trickling stream emerges from beneath the Buddha statue's feet, gathering into an outer pool before flowing along the mountain base, only to suddenly vanish underground—this is the famous spring. Nearby stands a separate courtyard called Damo Yard, housing a gilded iron slab about four feet high and three feet wide, its surface curved and covered with patterns resembling rice paddies—this is the "Iron Kasaya."
Ascending another li or so brings us to a pavilion. Beyond this point, the climb becomes impassable. Looking up, I saw a flat area below the summit where a few huts peeked through dense vegetation. A monk had lived there alone for five years, fetching water daily up and down the mountain for his ascetic practice—a true dhutanga practitioner, though regrettably we didn't meet him. After gazing for a long while, I descended to find Master Shu waiting at Dunquan Pavilion.
Returning to the monastic quarters, I marveled at hundreds of emerald bamboo stalks—a rare sight east of Mount Tai. Following a brief rest, we examined several Song dynasty stone tablets before the lecture hall. Entering the monastery kitchen (Xiangji Chu), I discovered another spring, full yet never overflowing, encircled by delicate streams. The monks said it was a separate water vein. Behind the kitchen lay Laihe Spring, similar but finer. Mount Tai is famed for its springs—some gush into pools, others flow hidden underground, some converge while others vanish—even the monks can't name them all.
This temple ranks among the four great monasteries of the realm, its architecture magnificent. Before it stands a three-tiered tower, while to the right rises a seven-story pagoda (Futu). With Master Chen, I climbed to the tower's summit, though the pagoda's upper levels remained obscured by the encircling peaks. South of the pagoda lies Luban Cave, its slanted cliff entrance barred by two stone gates—said to be the burial site of the mountain's founding patriarch.
Having toured nearly all the mountain's wonders, only the so-called "Tongming Core" eluded discovery.
This passage records the author's journey to Lingyan Temple on Mount Tai, followed by his visit to the Dongyue Temple in Tai'an Prefecture.
The author mentions that his elder brother once told him Lingyan Temple was the most secluded and exquisite spot behind Mount Tai—that to visit the mountain without seeing Lingyan would mean failing to truly experience it. While exploring the area, he discovered two stone tablets inscribed with his brother's poems from twenty years prior. That evening, he composed a lengthy regulated verse, which he inscribed on stone the following morning and entrusted to the temple monks.
Afterward, he traveled with his friends Shu and Chen to Tai'an Prefecture, where they were welcomed by the local magistrate. Finding time between engagements, they paid their respects at the city's Dongyue Temple, dedicated to the sacred peak. The temple complex was vast and solemn in layout, with three grand gates at the front, a central ceremonial hall, and a rear palace-like residence resembling an imperial dwelling. Ancient cypresses towered before the temple, surrounded by numerous stone steles, many of which bore inscriptions from foreign visitors during the Song and Yuan dynasties.
The magistrate hosted them with a vegetarian feast. During the meal, the author noted how the mountain's summit in the night seemed to loom just beyond the eaves—an experience of observing the mountain by moonlight that struck his companions as extraordinary. At dawn the next day, they switched to lighter sedan chairs for the ascent. Along the way, they admired the beauty of twin peaks embracing a clear-flowing spring, while gazing up at the mist-wreathed main summit heightened their awe of Mount Tai's grandeur. Pausing to rest and survey the distance, they saw the Wen River winding like a ribbon and distant peaks resembling small mounds—only Mount Culai stood tall and imposing, its majestic presence leaving them in silent admiration.
This passage describes the ascent of Mount Tai (Dai Zong). The journey begins at Shui Lian Dong (Water Curtain Cave), where low-lying rocks and dried-up springs offer little spectacle. Further ahead lies Ma Peng Ya (Horse Stable Cliff), standing like a screen to the right of the path—a slightly more imposing sight.
After climbing a stretch of stone steps, the terrain suddenly levels out for about three hundred paces. Locals call this stretch "Kuai Huo San" (Happy Three). The author recalls the arduous climb up Mount Hua (Taihua) and remarks that this flat section of Mount Tai doesn’t even compare to thirty percent of Hua’s ruggedness. Playfully, he inscribes a couplet: "Once a traveler atop Taihua’s peak, / This place well earns the name 'Happy Three.'" It’s no exaggeration.
Beyond this lies Hui Ma Ling (Dismount Ridge), where riders must continue on foot. After a long trek, they reach Yu Huang Ge (Jade Emperor Pavilion), guarded by a stone gate—one of Mount Tai’s strategic passes. Turning west from the pavilion, a winding ascent leads to Er Tian Men (Second Heavenly Gate), flanked by sheer cliffs and dense forests. Springs cascade like white silk between boulders, their murmurs filling the air. Sitting on the rocks to admire the waters, one gazes up at Yu Zhang Ya (Imperial Encampment Cliff), where Emperor Zhenzong of Song once camped—a breathtaking view. Now, a resting pavilion stands there, alongside two pine trees said to be the "Wu Da Fu Song" (Five Noble Pines) enfeoffed by Qin Shi Huang. Yet the author chuckles, finding them no different from ordinary mountain pines.
After a meal, the climb resumes. San Tian Men (Third Heavenly Gate) looms faintly through the mist, twin gates facing each other across the narrow, winding Shi Ba Pan (Eighteen Bends). The sedan bearers, panting and exhausted, switch carriers repeatedly. The mouth of the gorge seems to shift between near and far, like a path to the immortal realms. Alternating between riding and walking, they finally reach Tian Men (Heavenly Gate), where the terrain opens into a broad, level area with about thirty households running shops and lodgings. At the far end stands the Bi Xia Yuan Jun Gong (Shrine of the Princess of the Azure Clouds), its front courtyard reserved for burning paper offerings—a space roughly an acre in size, where incense burns ceaselessly day and night. Golden pillars and vermilion gates stand solemnly, truly resembling a celestial paradise.
After resting briefly with his companion Chen Gong, the author dons formal attire to pay respects to Bi Xia Yuan Jun (whom Daoist texts identify as the Jade Maiden of Mount Hua). Following the incense offerings, they wait for another companion, Shu Gong, who fails to arrive, so they set off to explore the peaks. Towering rocks form natural screens, their surfaces densely carved with inscriptions too numerous to take in. Most magnificent of all is the Tang Emperor Xuanzong’s cliff inscription of the Dong Feng Song (Ode to the Eastern Peak) in clerical script, while halfway up the mountain, faint traces of calligraphy by Su Ting and Duke Xu remain barely discernible.
This passage describes the author's experience and observations while ascending Mount Tai (Dai Zong). It begins with mention of a commoner who inscribed four large characters on a stone. Further up the path, a protruding rock forms a small hill, with buildings constructed in its shaded area and a low wall enclosing the front.
Particular attention is given to the wordless stele erected by Qin Shi Huang. The stele is broad and evenly proportioned, its top shaped like the canopy of a Buddhist stone pillar (sutra column). The author speculates it may have been used to mark the summit during the Fengshan sacrifices (imperial rites to Heaven). The stone is fine-textured and pure white, unlike local rock—how it was transported up the mountain remains a mystery, perhaps through the legendary "stone-driving technique" (a Daoist method).
Gazing southward, the author sees famed structures like the Sun-Moon Observatory, Wu Observatory, and Qin Observatory, along with sites such as the Cliff of Self-Sacrifice and the Stone Bridge. There are also remnants of ancient Fengshan altars and places where jade tablets (used in Song dynasty rituals) once flowed out. The Wen River winds from Laiwu, blocked by Mount Culai to the north, where streams converge before rushing westward. Distant peaks encircle the horizon, with cooking smoke curling upward—Mount Culai to the south stands like a gateway.
To the west, dusk gathers as clouds veil the sky. Sunlight glints off distant water, sparkling like stars. At the farthest edge of the sky, a bright point appears—first mistaken for an illusion, then recognized as Venus (the "Morning Star"), which sets before the sun and is rarely visible.
Seated on rocks with Lord Chen, the author notices a temple nestled in the deep northern valley, shaded by lush trees, exuding tranquility. Yet upon asking a Daoist priest (a "feathered transcendent"), they learn it is merely an ordinary monk’s retreat, nothing extraordinary.
The air remains still, warm as spring. Unable to wait for Lord Shu, they retire to a lodge on the mountain’s other side. At sunset, leaning against the low wall, they watch the crimson half-sun sink slowly into the legendary Yu Abyss (where the sun sets). Remarkably, after vanishing completely, the sun’s glow seeps through clouds like a floating carnelian plate, shimmering as if underwater—a marvel unseen elsewhere. Just then, Lord Shu arrives in a sedan chair after performing rites for the Goddess of the Azure Dawn (Bixia Yuanjun). As they prepare to sit, an icy wind suddenly howls, chilling them to the bone, forcing them to rise and bundle in extra layers.
This passage recounts the author's journey to Mount Tai with Lord Shu and others.
The night before, during a drinking gathering, Lord Shu proudly boasted about his prized collection—a stele inscription by Li Si (the chancellor of the Qin dynasty), which drew hearty laughter from the group. After the feast, they agreed to ascend Riguang Peak at cockcrow to witness the sunrise. Before dawn, the author arrived first and found that screens, wine, and food had already been prepared. When the two senior officials arrived, the sky was still dark, and the mountain wind was bitingly cold. Even huddled indoors, they shivered uncontrollably—Lord Chen wrapped himself in a blanket but still trembled, resorting to strong liquor to warm up.
As the first light of dawn appeared, they saw a crimson sun emerge from the sea of clouds, only to be swiftly obscured again by dark clouds. Upon returning to the official quarters, the author wished to inscribe a commemorative note, but his hands were too stiff from the cold to write properly—he had to warm them by the fire before he could hold a brush, a testament to the extreme chill atop the mountain. Later, they visited Lord Shu to admire the small seal script stele of Li Si, and the inscriptions by the Jade Maiden Pool nearby were also worth viewing.
Lord Shu wished to continue the unfinished sightseeing from the previous day, so the author and his companion followed him to explore various scenic spots. Back at the guesthouse for a meal, the author had to eat vegetarian fare because the two senior officials were preparing for Daoist liturgical rituals (Keyi). After the meal, the officials went to burn incense, and the author intended to descend the mountain early to visit Qufu. Unexpectedly, a thick fog suddenly rolled in, and Lord Shu dispatched attendants to forcibly detain him—turns out, Lord Shu was the master of the Shijing Valley.
Shijing Valley was less than half a mile from the roadside, featuring a massive rock large enough to seat hundreds, carved with Buddhist scriptures in clerical script (traditionally attributed to Wang Xizhi, though likely engraved by Song dynasty artisans). Above it, a three- or four-foot-high cliff had spring water cascading straight down. The characters "Water Curtain" (水帘), deeply carved into the stone by Vice Minister Wan, were perfectly washed by the flowing water, creating a striking sight. Nearby stood a stone pavilion, and to its left, on a high cliff, was engraved Lord Wan’s travelogue—an impeccably chosen location.
I sat alone in the pavilion by the stream, drinking wine, waiting for quite some time before the two senior officials arrived. We played music in the small chamber until dusk approached. After listening to a drum performance, we lit lanterns and followed the winding path illuminated by lamps on both sides, entering the city by the second watch. Concerned about burdening the local people with hospitality arrangements, I politely declined all formal receptions, planning to take a shortcut to Qufu at dawn the next day.
Magistrate Chen had an appointment in Ningyang, so my companion and I waited for him in Qufu. Setting out early the next morning, we traveled south along Mount Culai. Before we had gone a hundred li, we were met by cavalry sent from Qufu to welcome us. At dusk, as we crossed the Zhu and Si rivers, the county magistrate—a hereditary official from the Kong family—came to receive us. Entering the city, I found the streets desolate, yet the reception remained extravagantly ceremonious, which made me quite uncomfortable.
At dawn the following day, Magistrate Shu and I donned formal attire to pay homage at the Confucian Temple. The architecture of Queli (the Temple complex) was magnificent beyond compare, truly the grandest under heaven. Gazing upon the portrait of Confucius, we marveled at the sage's virtues, lingering by the Apricot Platform in contemplation of his enduring legacy. The ancient trees in the courtyard were so thick they required multiple people to embrace their trunks, their crowns soaring into the clouds. The legendary cypress said to have been planted by Confucius himself, though its main trunk had withered, still bore bark with distinctive leftward spirals, exuding an air of archaic dignity. Reading the stele inscriptions, I learned this tree had survived through dynastic changes, withering and reviving multiple times—a truly astonishing testament to endurance. Han dynasty steles stood intact outside the ceremonial gate, their simple forms preserving ancient styles. Among all the stone drum inscriptions I'd seen at imperial academies across the country, these were the most precious.
After completing our reverent observances, we withdrew respectfully and walked a hundred paces to Yan Hui's Temple. Much smaller than the Confucian Temple, we performed brief rites before emerging to see a large covered well on the right—said to mark the site of the "Narrow Lane," though the evidence was tenuous. Passing the residence of the Duke Yansheng (Confucius' descendant), we found the master still abed, so we exited the north gate to visit the Confucian Forest.
The Forest lay five li from the city, approached by a straight avenue flanked with ancient cypresses—a truly majestic sight. Eastern and western gate towers marked the entrance, where we heard ceremonial music begin as couriers announced Magistrate Chen's arrival. Magistrate Shu and I welcomed him at the gate, and the three of us proceeded to the tombs. After Chen changed into appropriate garments, we paid respects at the Memorial Hall. Seeing the dilapidated state of the hall, I reflected that its maintenance should be the Duke Yansheng's responsibility rather than awaiting government repairs.
Behind the hall stood the "Model Tree" planted by Zigong, twice as thick as other trees—withered yet uncorrupted, a genuine ancient specimen. Northwest stood the tomb of Zisi, with Boyu's tomb further north, the three forming a triangular arrangement. As we knelt before the tombs, a sudden tempest arose, whipping up sand and stones, startling our horses into whinnying and frightening our attendants. When the wind subsided, we continued to examine numerous Han dynasty steles, particularly treasuring the "Jianning Stele." At sunset, we three exchanged farewells on horseback—Magistrate Chen continuing to Ningyang while Magistrate Shu and I returned to Qufu.
The text recounts the author's observations and reflections during his travels to Mount Tai and surrounding historical sites.
Near Confucius' tomb, the author noticed an exceptionally large and spacious burial mound with a small hut beside it, said to have been built by Zigong (Confucius' disciple) for tomb-keeping duties. The cemetery grounds were overgrown with vegetation, yet curiously no thorns grew within the enclosing walls. The terrain here was level, with distant Mount Yi appearing like an emerald screen against the horizon, creating a picturesque landscape.
To the southeast stood a blue-tiled palace dedicated to the worship of Duke Zhou (Duke Wen of Zhou), reportedly constructed on the former site of the Lingguang Palace of Lu State. After meeting with the Duke Yansheng (hereditary title of Confucius' descendants), the author proceeded toward Zoucheng. Passing by Mount Yi, exhaustion prevented him from ascending, though later his friend Fan Dache described the mountain's exquisitely perforated rocks and extraordinary scenery, leaving the author regretful for missing this wonder.
Upon returning home, conversations with his friend Lü Jun revealed that the rock formations on Mount Tai's northern slopes surpassed those on the southern side in peculiar beauty - precisely where the author had intended but failed to visit the Ni Temple, deepening his sense of missed opportunity.
The postscript by Liu Zongdai (Vice Commissioner, native of Licheng) notes his summer ascent of Mount Tai in the Jisi year of Jiajing reign (1549 CE), where he observed the "Five Officials Pines" conferred by Qin Shi Huang still standing proudly. Nearby grew an ancient pine called "Recluse Pine," so named precisely because it had escaped the emperor's recognition. The author reflects how through centuries people remembered only the "Officials Pines" while forgetting the "Recluse Pine," suggesting all things have their appointed time for prominence and obscurity.
Through these travel accounts, the text conveys reverence for historical relics and regret over missed wonders, while subtly employing the pine tree allegory to comment on the varying fortunes of talented individuals throughout history.
In the spring of 1568 (the Longqing era's Wuchen year), I ascended Mount Tai again. Only a few years had passed, yet three of the five "Grandee Pines" (the trees enfeoffed by Qin Shi Huang during his Fengshan sacrifices) had already withered, while the "Recluse Pine" (the unhonored hermit pine) still stood tall. Does the rise and fall of all things truly follow predetermined patterns? Perhaps those maintaining their original purity endure, while those craving glory and favor perish more easily—such is the inherent karma of all beings.
Nowadays, Master Zhai of Anyang has renamed the Recluse Pine as "The Independent Grandee," as if it too had received imperial honors from the Qin dynasty. Alas! The fate of the five Grandee Pines is hardly lamentable; what pains me is how unfortunate the Recluse Pine is to be burdened with such empty titles.
Wu Tongchun (a langzhong official from Gushi) recorded in his Mount Tai travelogue: I twice passed through Shandong yet failed to climb Daiyue (another name for Mount Tai). In October 1583 (the Wanli era's Guiwei year), dispatched to Jinyang but wishing to visit my parents in our hometown en route, I calculated that taking the eastern detour would add four hundred li compared to the western path. My ancestral home in southeastern Yu lay closer to Shandong, so on the second day of the following month, I departed the capital and reached Dezhou by the eighth. Choosing Mount Tai required an eastern detour, at which I laughed: "Our fellow countrymen usually depart westward from the capital. Though this adds two hundred li to the shortest route, it saves two hundred compared to the detour—why not ascend Mount Tai then?"
My longtime friend Wu Deshi happened to be stationed in Shandong, while another old companion Li Youqing served as Jinan prefect. From the capital, I sent them separate letters. Upon reaching Dezhou, Deshi's messenger had already arrived at Pingyuan, with Youqing's envoy following shortly. I traveled with a Mr. Shen from Cixi, Ningbo—this gentleman was temporarily lodging at my home. On the tenth night, we stayed at Wandui (seventy li from Tai'an, with forty more to the summit). Locals advised: "Taking the front path means forty li to Taohua Valley plus another forty to the peak; the rear route offers finer scenery." Yet since the front path allowed round-trip convenience, few visitors chose the back. I declared: "Even if it means extra distance, I'll take the rear route."
At dawn on the eleventh, we set out. After twenty li to Diantai, we turned southeast toward Taohua Valley. Following over ten uphill and downhill stretches, we encountered attendants dispatched by Prefect Jia of Tai'an at the valley. After the meal, four strong bearers arrived with mountain litters (palanquin-like but wheel-less, allowing carriers to sit when resting). From here, mountain slopes gradually rose on both sides as we wound through ravines.
After traveling northeast for several more li, I arrived at Jiangni Village's Crimson Mountain (a branch of Mount Tai), which guided me like a beacon to turn left. Proud Mountain spread its wings protectively on my right, while Cloud Terrace Stone Canopy (a natural stone arch) seemed to bow in greeting, warmly beckoning me forward. Only Central Army Plain moved contrary to my carriage's path as the mountain road wound through twisting valleys—at first I could remember a few turns, but soon lost all sense of direction.
Several li further past Ear-Rubbing Stone, I rested with wine at Iron Buddha Temple. Reaching the Ocean Eye (a mountain pool), Shen tossed a stone into the water, its echoes lingering endlessly. Five li later at Homesickness Ridge, then another ten to Osmanthus Master Hermitage, where ten thousand pines pierced the clouds and the retreat nestled halfway up the slope. Drinking as we walked, we descended to explore Tiger's Lair, inscribing "Finest Spot West of Tai" on the rocks.
Passing Wind Ridge and Cloud Terrace Hermitage, the path grew precipitous—sedan chairs became impossible, forcing us to climb on foot. Ten more li brought us to the summit after forty total, half walked. Before us stood the Shrine of the Primordial Sovereign (a Daoist temple honoring Bixia Yuanjun), with government offices to the right. Prefect Jia—once my subordinate—greeted me before the offices. Dusk fell with snowflakes, leaving no time to worship the goddess, so we first examined Qin dynasty seal-script steles by the Jade Maiden Pool behind the offices. The rock-embedded tablet retained only thirty characters, though Song scholar Liu Ba once recorded over two hundred in rubbings—now just half a stone remained. Close inspection revealed faint traces on the right side, confirming Liu's note that "characters surrounded the stele unevenly."
After feasting, I stood at the cliff's edge: heaven and earth merged into white vastness, wispy clouds brushing my beard and sleeves. Pilgrims now swarmed with incense and spirit money, their prayers shaking the valleys. Inns above and below hung lanterns like the Lantern Festival. Bidding Prefect Jia goodnight, we agreed to watch dawn at fifth watch. He specially ordered attendants to worship the goddess at fourth watch.
At fourth watch, Prefect Jia arrived with offerings and four scholars. After I composed prayers to Bixia Yuanjun, Shen and I turned northwest from the shrine toward Sunrise Peak. When the prefect's group followed, thick clouds curtained the horizon. Fearing no sunrise, I was told to wait. Soon eastern light glowed while clouds thinned elsewhere. Staring eastward, I noticed brightness in the xun position (southeast)—the sun would rise there! Suddenly, clouds rolled upward like scrolls unfurling...
Mount Tai (also known as Daizong) stretches across the horizon like the Great Wall, its slopes shimmering with crystalline brilliance in the sunlight. Distant mists drift between the peaks like sheer curtains, while rainbows of light radiate from both northern and southern ridges. Suddenly, the summit becomes enveloped in violet-tinged clouds, as though crowned with royal headwear.
When I asked a Daoist priest where to find the sea, he pointed to a glimmering band of light beneath the sun. That lightning-like gleam vanished the moment I perceived it. At sunrise, the sun appears as a golden disc that gradually pales and expands, then diminishes as it ascends. From afar, sea and sky appear distinctly separate, yet nearby details blur in misty obscurity. Just as the mountain peaks fully reveal themselves, twilight rises over the ocean, making it seem suddenly remote.
Years ago when I witnessed this sunrise with my master, the spectacle was sublime—I even painted the scene. Though today's weather is clear, drifting clouds have marred the view. Magistrate Jia remarked, "Wouldn't we dishonor this vast sea by abstaining from wine before such splendor?" So we drank heartily atop the Sea-Viewing Rock. In my cups, I told him: "Even the fabled Three Divine Mountains (Penglai, Fangzhang, and Yingzhou) couldn't surpass this."
Descending past the Heart-Testing Stone, I noticed a cubic stone casket at the Song Dynasty Altar Ruins, said to contain jade imperial edicts. Further south at the Life-Sacrifice Cliff, the precipice plunged into unfathomable depths. When I leaned out to peer down, Magistrate Jia panicked and ordered attendants to grip my robe. I laughed: "Fear not—I've no intention of jumping."
Turning southeast, we found a remarkable upturned boulder leaning against the cliff, inscribed with "Marvelous Seascape." Below lay the Eastern Heavenly Gate. After turning right onto the Immortal's Bridge—a natural arch formed by two suspended rocks—we reached Pingding Peak on the western cliffs. There Magistrate Jia hosted a banquet with singing girls. Though eager to explore other peaks, he insisted we stay for legendary tales, drinking three rounds before parting.
Venturing alone, I ascended from Qin Viewing Peak to the Jade Emperor Summit—Tai's highest point. Before it stands the Qin Dynasty's Wordless Stele: a multizhang monolith of yellow-white stone streaked with violet, said to mark Emperor Qin Shihuang's Fengshan sacrifices. From this vantage, the southern view reveals winding paths descending like threads to the base, where the Wen River encircles Mount Liangfu like a jade belt.
This passage describes the majestic landscape and cultural relics of Mount Tai (known anciently as "Dai Zong"). The surrounding peaks like Mount Meng, Mount Yi, Mount Yunting, and Mount Niqiu appear dwarfed in comparison, while only Mount Culai and Mount Anniu are partially obscured by the main summit. To the east, the undulating Daling Mountain follows the remnants of the ancient Great Wall all the way to the sea; to the west stand Mount Lingyan and Mount Ao, extending as far as the Taihang Mountains, Mount Huabuzhu, and Mount Changbai, encircling the northern region of Licheng like a protective screen—truly a mystical realm worthy of the Penglai paradise.
Beside the summit lies the ceremonial platform used by the Qin dynasty for the Fengshan sacrifices. Originally, the Jade Emperor’s Shrine stood atop the peak, but later, Magistrate Wan of Nanchang relocated it to the northern side, leaving the summit’s rocky surface exposed. The author inscribed four large characters—"Yuanyue Qiongdian" (Supreme Peak of the Primordial Mountain)—on the rocks. Walking westward for over a li, one reaches the Elder Peak, and another li further lies the Stone Horse Mountain. Legend says that leaping on horseback three times here would leave one regretting the inability to proceed further. A Daoist explained that northeast of the mountain lies the Terrace of Emperor Yao, below which is the Jade Maiden’s Grotto, an ancient site where immortal maidens cultivated their practice.
Turning left, the author visited the Hall of Abundant Life and the bedchamber of the Primordial Goddess (Yuanjun), then proceeded southwest to Confucius Cliff, said to be where Confucius stood when he remarked, "Ascending Mount Tai makes the world appear small." The author reflected on how the mountain’s temples were resplendent with gold and jade, yet Confucius’ shrine remained strikingly simple. At the Eastern Peak Shrine, the author admired the Tang Emperor Xuanzong’s monumental cliff inscription in the "Eight-Part Script," with characters five inches tall, bold and vigorous. Below it was a small cave called Peach Blossom Spring, whose water was exceptionally sweet and pure.
After paying dawn rites to the Primordial Goddess (Yuanjun), the author arrived at Five Splendors Cliff, known in legend as the Summit of Shared Vision. Descending, they passed White Cloud Cave, north of which stood Phoenix Mountain. Two li northwest brought them to the Summit of Distant Views, where they could gaze upon the sea of clouds and the Western Heavenly Gate, with the western peaks stretching endlessly before them. The group drank and sang, their voices echoing through the heavens.
Finally, the treacherous descent was described: from the First Heavenly Gate southward, they followed the famous "Eighteen Bends" (actually thirty-six switchbacks). The path was so steep that two people had to support each other to walk safely. Passing scenic spots like Great Dragon’s Mouth and Little Dragon’s Mouth, they were surrounded by fantastically shaped rocks and lush pines and bamboos. After a brief rest at the Imperial Tent Terrace, they continued downward to the Sunlit Cave.
After walking three li from the Halfway Pavilion, one reaches the Second Heavenly Gate, where stand two famous "Grand Pine Trees" (legend says Emperor Qin Shi Huang took shelter from rain here during his Fengshan ritual and ennobled the pines with the rank of "Grand Master"). The one on the left requires two people to embrace its girth, while its companion is slightly slimmer. Though locals claim these are the very pines ennobled by the First Emperor, their authenticity remains uncertain.
Further down lies a spot mistakenly called "Happy Three Liberations" by villagers, later corrected by someone carving "Happy Mountain" on the rockface. This three-li stretch of level ground offers respite before the rugged ascent resumes. From Huangxian Ridge, ten li leads to Return-Horse Ridge, flanked by the Jade Emperor Temple to the north and Ascending Immortal Pavilion ahead. Another five li brings one to Resting Horse Shed, where sheer cliffs bear three mysterious ink characters that never fade despite wind and rain—locals insist they were inscribed by immortals.
Five more li leads to Water Curtain Cave, where a waterfall cascades down cliffs like a hanging screen. Fifty paces eastward lies the Stone Scripture Valley. Though heavy snow fell, I pressed on to witness this famed site. Across half an acre of flat stone surface, the Diamond Sutra was carved in characters each spanning a foot. Brushing away snow revealed jade-like strokes gleaming under flowing water and towering peaks—a transcendent landscape.
Ten li from Gaolao Bridge to Red Gate (the so-called First Heavenly Gate) finally marked our exit from the mountain gorge at midnight. Along this forty-li descent—half of which I walked—stood towering pavilions, deep-set temples, and archaic seal-script inscriptions too numerous to memorize. Approaching torchlights signaled Prefect Jia's welcoming party.
Detouring right to Daiyue Temple, we found scant remains of Emperor Wu of Han's cypresses, their bark nearly gone. Eastward at Queen Mother Pool, cliff walls framed murmuring streams. Crossing a wooden bridge brought us to Lü Dongbin's Cave before entering Feng Gate to worship at the Mountain Temple—a structure rivaling imperial palaces in grandeur. Ancient steles flickered dimly in torchlight, permitting only hurried glances before retiring at midnight.
The next morning, we inspected the "Yin Character Stele" south of the city before parting with Prefect Jia. My companion Sanlangzi reflected: "Each ascent of Mount Tai moves me deeply. During my official travels—scaling Hua Shan's summit the year before last, gazing at the Yellow River from Song Shan last year—this marks my third pilgrimage to sacred peaks."
This passage records the travels of Ming Dynasty literatus Zhong Yuchun (a native of Songjiang who served as a Counselor) to Mount Tai. Over more than a decade, he journeyed through nearly half of China, ascending three famous mountains—notably climbing Mount Hua (Huashan) with companions during midwinter, visiting Mount Song with Zheng Gongyun, and undertaking this Mount Tai expedition with particular dedication.
The author recounts growing up in the watery landscapes of Jiangnan. In his youth, he admired Sima Qian's spirit of extensive travels and long aspired to emulate Xiang Ziping's ambition of visiting all Five Sacred Mountains, yet worldly affairs had previously hindered him. It wasn't until spring of the Guiwei year that he left the capital by boat for Qingyuan, resolving to begin his Five Mountains pilgrimage with Mount Tai.
His travelogue vividly describes the journey: taking small paths to the mountain's base amidst peach blossoms and willow greens, with pheasants calling across wheat fields—a breathtaking scene. After a hundred li, undulating ridges appeared like emerald waves about to spill, while distant indigo peaks pierced the clouds. Learning these were Mount Tai's slopes heightened his anticipation.
Yet the tone shifts abruptly when he notices impoverished children and widows foraging wild herbs by the roadside, prompting reflections on the people's hardships. He observes locals desperately praying for rain during a prolonged drought, musing privately: "When Mount Tai's rising mists could transform into life-giving showers, why does it begrudge this gift of rain?"
The ascent is meticulously documented: first exploring an inverted-bowl-shaped cave (Ancient Immortal Grotto), its depths unfathomable. Proceeding by torchlight with hunched posture, they retreated when narrow passages grew fetid. Departing the northern city gate in afternoon, jagged boulders hindered their horses. At the foothills stood a temple surrounded by ancient cypresses, said planted during Emperor Wu of Han's Fengshan sacrifices.
Passing Red Gate and Flying Cloud Pavilion, they switched to bamboo sedans at the Robing Pavilion. Near Gao Lao Bridge, they saw a Guandi shrine, while mountain peaches bloomed like brocade, evoking the Peach Blossom Spring utopia. The account concludes approaching Water Curtain Cave's murmuring springs. Blending natural beauty with social concern, the text exemplifies the literati travelogue's distinctive observational lens.
Passing by Tianshen Rock after the rain, we witnessed mountain springs gushing forth like ten thousand pearls scattering in the sunlight. Unfortunately, prolonged drought had weakened the flow, preventing us from seeing the full spectacle. A small stone bridge diverted the spring to the left of the stream, where a pavilion nestled among the cliffs offered an excellent vantage point.
Four li further brought us to Mapeng Cliff, with Huima Ridge just ahead. From this point onward, the mountain path grew increasingly perilous—so treacherous that even horses had to retreat backward. Another five li led to Huangxian Ridge, where the winding trail alternated between east and west ascents. Though the detour added three li, the relatively gentle slopes earned it the local nickname "Happy Three." Personally, I'd have called it "Twisting Valley."
Five more li brought us to the Imperial Encampment (also called the Imperial Procession site), where Emperor Zhenzong of Song once lodged. Two ancient pines stood here, said to be survivors from the five "Minister Pines" enfeoffed by Qin Shi Huang. Their gnarled trunks resembled coiling dragons, their bark like scales, as if ready to take flight in the wind and rain. Yet judging by their age—no more than a century—they might be later replacements or descendants of the originals. I couldn't help composing verses reflecting on Qin's imperial decrees.
Ahead lay Hundred-Zhang Cliff, its concave face forming a natural stone chamber large enough to seat dozens. Wisteria vines draped like an old monk's kasaya, while a profound cave nearby suggested an ancient immortal's abode—utterly extraordinary. Another five li brought us to Great and Little Dragon Gorges, where spring water gushed from rock fissures resembling gaping dragon mouths. A stately pine, known as the "Recluse's Pine," stood like a canopy—perhaps planted by someone fleeing Qin's tyranny. To me, this hoary-headed pine, standing proud amid icy cliffs, seemed utterly indifferent to the Qin dynasty's pretensions.
Ascending to Chaoyang Cave, we traversed the infamous Eighteen Bends—as Ying Shao described: "Those behind see only the heels of those ahead; those ahead see only the crowns of those behind." Passing Three Heavenly Gates and another section of the Eighteen Bends, we reached the Palace of Bixia Yuanjun (the sacred shrine of Mount Tai's goddess) as the Big Dipper hung low and palace lanterns glowed like fireflies. Lodging at the official quarters, we listened all night to mountain winds roaring like ocean waves—as if the Milky Way were pouring down. In my dazed state, I fancied riding Zhang Qian's raft to visit the Cowherd and Weaver Girl, or soaring wind-borne like Liezi. After the third cockcrow, I donned my robe and climbed Riguan Peak for sunrise, but thick clouds denied me the wondrous clearing Han Yu witnessed at Mount Heng. Facing the vast sea of clouds, I could only sigh in melancholy.
This passage recounts the author's experiences and reflections while ascending Mount Tai. At dawn, witnessing a golden sun disk emerge amidst hundred-zhang-long morning rays felt like bathing in the sacred Fusang tree (legendary divine tree where the sun rises). After daybreak, the inscription "Eastern Sunrise View" carved on the eastern cliff became visible, while gazing westward revealed the headwaters of the Yellow River—both sights profoundly stirring the soul.
Descending the mountain, the author paid respects at the shrine of Bixia Yuanjun (the Goddess of Mount Tai), observing thousands of devotees coming to pray. Local officials annually collected tens of thousands in incense money for government use. Resting with wine by the shrine, the author noted the nearby Jade Maiden Spring—its bone-chilling clarity said to be where celestial maidens washed their hair. A pavilion stood above the spring, inspiring the author to compose verses celebrating its numinous qi.
Further along stood a three-chi-high fragment of Li Si's stele, a relic from the Qin dynasty. Turning northeast brought the author to the Temple of the Sacred Mountain, where the imposing "Mount Tai Inscription" left by Emperor Xuanzong of Tang during his fengshan sacrifices adorned the cliff face. Nearby were Su Ting's "Eastern Sacrifice Ode" and Yan Zhenqing's calligraphy, regrettably damaged by later generations.
Climbing several hundred steps led to ancient imperial fengshan altars, evoking the poetic line "white clouds rise from the sacrificial site." Higher still stood the Jade Emperor Temple at Mount Tai's summit—where Li Bai's description of "breathing reaching the imperial throne" became palpably real. Before the temple stood the Wordless Stele (traditionally attributed to Qin Shi Huang), some speculating it concealed a stone casket. The author reflected how the grand fengshan ceremonies of seventy-two emperors had vanished into wilderness, leaving only this summit stele as witness.
To the west rose the imposing Qinguan Peak, alongside Zhouguan, Wuguan, and Yueguan viewpoints—all named for their distant vistas of corresponding regions. Among them, Yueguan (Moon View) derived its name from the lunar rising direction. Gazing from Wuguan Peak, mist floated like white silk, stirring profound nostalgia. Blending vivid landscapes with meditations on historical transience, the passage masterfully intertwines physical journey and philosophical contemplation.
The passage describes the author's experiences and reflections while visiting Mount Tai (known as Daizong). The text mentions the towering "Zhangren Peak" behind Mount Tai, beneath which stands an immortal palace enshrining a stone statue of Confucius (referred to as "Nifu"). Standing solemnly in reverence, the author observes the cliff inscription reading "Confucius saw the world as small." From this lofty vantage point, gazing up at the boundless sky and down at the endless landscape, the author feels an overwhelming sense of spiritual expansiveness.
Reciting Du Fu's poetic lines such as "Yin and Yang cleave dusk from dawn" — verses that capture Mount Tai's majestic beauty — the author is further struck by the extraordinary scenery. Soon, the author encounters three companions: Qian Deqing, Cai Youjun, and Feng Xianfu, who share their own remarkable experiences of the mountain and the poems they composed. Feng Xianfu presents his work, Meeting Yu at the Summit of Mount Tai, and invites the author to respond in kind. The author replies with a bold, unrestrained style, likening his verse to Xiang Yu's formidable momentum during the Battle of Julu against Zhang Han.
The group then gazes northeast toward Huanghua Cave (a site where the Daoist immortal Wang Nü cultivated perfection, named for the yellow flowers surrounding it). The winding path leads to a secluded stone chamber that seems otherworldly — truly an ideal place for spiritual refinement. However, the treacherous mountain trail prevents them from venturing there. Instead, they proceed to "Self-Sacrifice Cliff" (also called "Self-Preservation Rock"). As the author leans perilously close to the edge to admire the view, two Daoist priests hastily grab his sleeves, fearing he might be blown off by the celestial winds. Qian Deqing cries out in alarm, but the author laughs, remarking that his composure surpasses Han Yu's terror when ascending Mount Hua. The cliff bears the inscription "Self-Preservation Rock," a name meant to warn against the misguided who were once deceived into leaping to their deaths here in the name of sacrifice.
The author reflects on this: "So-called 'self-sacrifice' is ultimately meaningless — how much more so 'self-preservation'? Neither true abandonment nor true love, it should be understood as such." The two priests, left speechless, continue guiding the tour.
This passage recounts the journey of several literati to the Stone Scripture Valley (石经峪) on Mount Tai (泰山), imbued with an air of transcendent Daoist elegance. They first visited the Immortal Bridge to gaze at Mount Kuocang in the distance, then spent the night beneath the Southern Brightness Stone Bridge, sharing wine and conversation. The next day, they arrived at the Stone Scripture Valley, where they witnessed:
A massive Scripture-Exposing Rock (曝经石), said to be where ancient sages once dried their sacred texts. Its broad surface could accommodate hundreds, three times larger than the famed Preaching Platform of Master Sheng at Tiger Hill in Suzhou. The rock was carved with large, bold characters of the Diamond Sutra in an archaic script, later joined by Confucian classics added by enthusiasts, creating a striking juxtaposition. At its edge stood a pavilion beside the "Pillow-for-Listening-to-Springs" stone, where crystalline waters gushed from a crevice like a jade ribbon, cascading into a pool so clear one could see their eyebrows reflected.
Behind the pavilion, a cliff bore the inscription "High Mountains and Flowing Waters" (高山流水). Here, the author and three companions (三君) drank and admired the view. His friends wished to play the qin zither to summon echoes from the peaks, inviting the mountain deities and Mount Tai's seventy-two divine rulers (七十二君) to join their celestial symphony. But the author remarked that landscapes already held their own pure music—why force zither notes upon them? This drew knowing smiles from all.
They observed how the stone carvings stood distinct as constellations—some bearing the archaic dignity of seal script, others resembling natural bird tracks—while the rustle of falling leaves harmonized with the spring's melody. The author mused: When the First Emperor (祖龙) burned the books, these scriptures survived like treasures from a dragon's hoard. To pillow one's head on stone and listen to springs was joy enough; the spirit of "High Mountains and Flowing Waters" arose spontaneously, needing no artificial adornment.
As dusk fell, plans were debated: some wished to explore Mount Tai's seventy-two peaks, others to visit the Bamboo Stream Six Recluses' (竹溪六逸) hermitage on Mount Culai, while someone proposed seeing Shi Jie's (石介) study hall. The fading light deepened the mystery of Cloud Pavilion and Spirit Cliff. This serendipitous encounter with the Stone Scripture Valley, they agreed, surpassed even the famed Sunrise Viewing Peak—a quiet testament to the Daoist truth that the profoundest wonders come when least sought.
Notes:
- "Three Companions" (三君) refers to the author's fellow literati travelers.
- "Seventy-Two Rulers" (七十二君) denotes the pantheon of deities in Mount Tai worship.
- "The Ancestral Dragon's Calamity" (祖龙劫) alludes to the Qin Dynasty's burning of books.
- "Bamboo Stream Six Recluses" were Tang Dynasty hermits who dwelled on Mount Culai.
This passage describes the author's ascent of Mount Tai and the reflections it inspired. It begins with White Horse Mountain rising twenty li high, where clouds seem within reach and white elm trees stand distinct. Upon climbing Mount Tai's forty-li summit, the author marvels at its undisputed status as a blessed grotto-heaven (dongtian, Daoist sacred abodes of immortals).
As the foremost of the Five Sacred Peaks, Mount Tai's preeminence likely stems from its eastern location ("the Emperor emerges from Zhen," symbolizing the east) representing life's primordial beginnings. From this vantage, nearby Mount Culai appears like a writing desk, while distant ranges—Taihang, Huabuzhu, and Kongtong—loom faintly. Countless peaks bow like reverent descendants or dragons paying homage to Ziwei (the Daoist deification of Polaris). The Yellow River threads the horizon, while the Wen and Si Rivers resemble silk ribbons; the Bohai Sea nestles at the mountain's elbow, exchanging breaths with heaven and earth's vital Qi in wondrous communion.
The mountain teems with fantastical peaks, caverns, and crystalline springs, nourishing rare medicinal herbs and exotic flora. Ever-shifting clouds paint the landscape with dawn and dusk's distinct palettes. The author realizes human life resembles sea foam—ephemeral as a cicada's shed skin. True "journeys to gather the authentic" (caizhen zhi you, Daoist pilgrimages for truth) transcend fixation on particular cliffs and gullies. Even atop Kunlun's summit, those who cannot transcend material forms fail to grasp Confucius' vision of "seeing the world as small."
Dated to the Bingxu year of Wanli era (1586 CE), the colophon identifies the author as Wang Heng of Taicang, who composed this account two days after the Double Ninth Festival. Born among Jiangnan's waterways (the "reeds of Eastern Wu"), Wang laments his lifelong deprivation of majestic landscapes. With the Five Peaks scattered thousands of li apart, scholars could scarcely visit all. Though Mount Tai's proximity to the Yellow and Ji Rivers offered hope during family visits, he ultimately dared not force such divine encounters.
On the eighth day of the ninth month, we sailed north and moored at Jining. My grandmother planned to make pilgrimage to Mount Tai (the sacred Eastern Peak of the Five Sacred Mountains), and I accompanied her with great joy, together with our companion Zhou Ruchun. On our departure day, we lodged at Jianning Post Station where howling winds raged all night, with rain pelting against the mat awning. At dawn the rain lessened, but heavy clouds still loomed, making us fear our journey would be delayed. Unexpectedly, by evening the clouds dispersed, and at noon the next day the sun emerged.
Along the way, mountain ranges revealed verdant contours through the mist, and the rain-washed yellow dirt road felt gentler underfoot—truly embodying Du Fu's poetic phrase "moistened to perfection." Several times our driver pointed to distant peaks claiming they were Mount Tai, yet none resembled it. Only when an azure silhouette darker than the sky suddenly appeared due east did I suspect we'd found it, though my companions laughed at my fancy. When the mist fully cleared, Mount Tai indeed stood revealed at the valley's end, drawing gasps of awe from all.
I purposely bought a donkey to ride, fearing I might miss any mountain vistas. At dusk, Mount Tai appeared particularly graceful, as though responding to my admiration. After another night's travel we reached Tai'an Prefecture, switching to bamboo sedans for the final ten li to Red Gate—the starting point for the ascent. From Red Gate to Small Heavenly Gate, the left side followed a stream valley where piled boulders formed natural sculptures: some like tilted heads listening, others like figures rinsing mouths, some with raised arms cheering, still others seeming to jostle for passage—a thousand wondrous forms. Five-colored trees dotted the landscape—peach, apricot, maple, pear, pine and chestnut—while medicinal herbs like climbing figs, dodder vines, gastrodia rhizomes (赤箭), and Solomon's seal (黄精) grew abundantly. Though Mount Tai's bones are stark rock, these plants clothe it in brocade.
Several li farther brought us to Old Gao Bridge, a flat span arching gorgeously above a cliffside stream. Past a short bridge lay Water Curtain Cave, where towering cliffs bore two massive stacked boulders resembling a hanging screen—though in this dry season only a trickle flowed. During spring floods, this scene must rival (if not equal) Lu Mountain's famous waterfall. Turning past the cave, we trekked several li to Horse Shed Cliff, its recessed cavern deep enough to stable herds. Further on at Dismounting Ridge, even horses could proceed no farther, leaving only foot travel.
Next came the ascent of Huangxian Ridge, winding through four increasingly steep switchbacks. From the ridge, the northern subsidiary peak—Proud Lai Summit—lay fully visible. Here the main peak of Mount Tai seemed to bow slightly forward, paradoxically intensifying its majestic presence.
Descending from the summit of Mount Tai, one traverses approximately three li up and down, passing through three famous scenic spots locally known as "Happy Three." From Huima Ridge to Huangxian Ridge, the sedan chair bearers carried the palanquin along the steep mountain path. The precipitous terrain forced me to bend forward in the chair, my head and heels constantly colliding with the bearers amid the violent jostling.
Upon reaching this relatively level stretch, the extraordinary pines and bizarre ravines on either side appeared particularly magnificent. At last, I could tuck my hands into my sleeves, sway my head, and recite poetry with great delight. A short distance ahead, we rested at the Jade Emperor Pavilion, roughly halfway up the mountain. I brewed tea for my father, who beamed with joy and held me at arm’s length, gazing at me for a long while. In the distance, the Southern Heavenly Gate loomed faintly amid the verdant peaks like a crimson star.
Proceeding further, we passed the Imperial Encampment, where Emperor Zhenzong of the Song Dynasty once stayed. Nearby stood one of the last two surviving "Five Grandee Pines" enfeoffed by Qin Shi Huang (the other three had withered). Though slightly gnarled, the tree was claimed to be millennia old—though I had no means to verify this.
Beyond the Imperial Encampment, the path wound perilously between sheer cliffs. Soon, we reached the Lesser Heavenly Gate, where precipitous walls, as if hewn by axes, pressed against one another. In the ravine to the left, a stream polished mica stones into jade-green brilliance. Here, the mountain vista suddenly opened wide, and my companions and I shouted in exhilaration. Coincidentally, someone brought wine, which we hastily drank—the howling wind nearly overturned our cups, so we poured libations to the mountain spirits instead.
Climbing onward past the Lesser Dragon Valley and Greater Dragon Valley, we arrived at the most treacherous section: the Eighteen Bends. Stone steps, like teeth, were embedded into the cliff face, with gorges confronting each other on both sides. Dozens of emerald pines clustered at the western gorge entrance, a spectacle locals called "The Marvel of Facing Pines." Up the valley, the slopes were blanketed in lush pines and cypresses.
At the end of the Eighteen Bends, the Southern Heavenly Gate finally came into view—the mountain seemed split by an iron axe, with steps and a gate carved into its heart. Though man-made, it appeared divinely wrought. Winding several li beyond the gate stood the Temple of the Primordial Princess of the Azure Dawn (the sacred goddess of Mount Tai), its architecture grand and imposing. After accompanying my father in paying respects, we changed robes at the official lodge. Behind it lay the Jade Maiden’s Hair-Washing Pool, its waters crystalline, beside which two lines of Li Si’s seal script remained on a broken stele. Turning left and ascending further led to the Temple of the Great Deity of the Eastern Peak, behind whose stone walls was inscribed Emperor Xuanzong of Tang’s "Inscription Commemorating the Fengshan Sacrifice at Mount Tai."
This passage describes the author's observations during his ascent of Mount Tai (Dai Zong). Along the mountain path stood numerous exquisite stone carvings, though their original patrons had long since changed. The author lingered before the weathered inscriptions, tracing them with his fingers while sighing in contemplation.
Upon reaching the summit where one would expect panoramic views, the Jade Emperor Temple obstructed the vista. Before it stood a blank stele over ten feet tall, said to have been erected by Qin Shi Huang. Looking down from the peak, Tai'an city appeared as small as a knot on a garment collar, with thousands of surrounding peaks bowing in homage. Mount Culai stood particularly prominent, while other towering peaks remained nameless even to the resident Daoist priests.
Journeying eastward to Sun-Watching Peak, the author found the Sea-Viewing Tower behind it, where legendary observation platforms of Qin, Zhou, and Wu dynasties were said to have stood. Distant clouds draped across the mountains like silk ribbons, while ravines displayed trees and rocks interwoven like brocade. The winding Wen River and Yellow River resembled jade belts, though ocean views were obscured by mist. At the Life-Abandoning Cliff, a protruding boulder made the author dare only stand at the edge—peering sideways at the abyss below sent shivers down his spine.
Further west lay the Immortal's Bridge, where a stone span connected two severed cliffs in the most marvelous spectacle. A Daoist guide pointed out landmarks like Lone Beauty Peak, Nobleman Peak, and Lotus Flower Peak. The Eastern Heavenly Gate proved steeper than its southern counterpart, though lacking proper steps, it had become a den for wild creatures. Near the bridge's western end, a Daoist in tattered robes ignored passersby, though some alms-givers left coins for him.
During the moonlit descent, the author and his companion Zhou Sheng persuaded a priest to let them rest at the Temple of the Eastern Peak. Whether veiled in mist or not, the moonlight and starlight seemed intimately close, bathing the entire firmament in an ethereal blue radiance.
Shivering with cold and unable to sleep in the mountain air, I returned to check on my elderly father who had already retired, then sought lodging in a Daoist priest's thatched hut. The priest lived in austere poverty—his dwelling no wider than three meters, half the space occupied by a cooking stove, forcing me to sleep curled up with bent knees. Throughout the night, mountain sounds persisted, and around midnight came the ceaseless chanting of male and female devotees ascending the peak, leaving me wakeful till dawn.
Before daybreak, I roused Master Zhou and we wrapped ourselves in robes to observe celestial signs in the courtyard, only to find the stars had vanished—an ill omen that chilled my heart. Groping our way with walking sticks toward Riguan Peak (Sun-Watching Terrace), we stumbled over rocks while our teeth chattered from cold. By chance, a prefectural envoy arrived with warming wine and charcoal—I drank three cups in quick succession. As faint crimson light emerged in the east, we saw ink-black clouds above and below sandwiching a mere three centimeters of luminosity.
Suddenly the sky shifted from dark blue to purplish-red, dawn hues staining half the firmament, their brilliance flushing our faces. Mountain silhouettes sharpened like scattered cinnabar grains as three golden bands materialized on the horizon. The priest explained this was the "Ocean-Leaping Sun Embrace" phenomenon, heralding the sun's imminent rise. True enough, a molten-gold sun soon ascended like a bronze gong, its lower edge glinting white over the sea—only to vanish again behind clouds, taking with it those fleeting visions of golden mists and jade vapors.
Reluctant to leave, we detoured to the Jade Emperor Pavilion, though the rustic priest lacked appreciation for such marvels. Northward behind the pavilion stretched lush bamboo groves; we heard of a spectacular stone grotto there, but my father's frailty prevented further exploration. Passing the Venerable Elder Peak proved anticlimactic—just an unremarkable hill.
Descending, we visited White Cloud Cave, its walls honeycombed with fissures. The priest said on overcast days, mist threads seep from these pores to shroud the entire mountain before coalescing into rain—a phenomenon I regretted missing. To Master Zhou I sighed: "We crave clear skies for sunrise, yet yearn for rain to see cloud caves—human desire truly knows no bounds!"
After bidding the priest farewell, we took the near-vertical Eighteen Bends descent. Four palanquin bearers had to carry the chair upside down along this precipice. Drenched in nervous sweat, I stared fixedly at the thighs of the man ahead, while Master Zhou traversed the path with effortless ease, jesting that only serpentine slithering could make the descent truly thrilling.
This passage describes the author's experience and reflections while ascending Mount Tai. Upon reaching the mountainside, he looked up to find the Heavenly Gate already out of sight, filling him with regret. Along the path, the gate repeatedly appeared and vanished from view. Each time it became visible, he would wave farewell with his companion Zhou Sheng before reluctantly descending.
Passing through the Water Curtain Cave, they walked eastward through waterfalls and shaded groves until reaching the Stone Scripture Valley—a famous scenic spot on Mount Tai. There lay a stone platform spanning over ten acres, its smooth surface carved with large characters from the Diamond Sutra in clerical script. Each character measured nearly a foot square, creating a magnificent sight. Though much of the inscription had eroded from water flow, the author preferred this natural weathering over the two artificially damaged steles seen earlier. Spring water cascaded from above with a rushing sound. Minister Wan of the Ming Dynasty had inscribed "Water Curtain" on the cliff face alongside his essay "Record of Lofty Mountains and Flowing Streams," whose artistic conception perfectly matched the scene.
Descending several more li, the mountain terrain gradually leveled out. The Soaring Han Peak rose into the clouds as if supporting the entire mountain, while peaks like Culai and Haoli stood arrayed around it. Returning from the journey, the author found himself unable to sleep or eat, remaining silent about Mount Tai. Though he glanced back at the mountain several times during departure, believing he had seen its entirety, it wasn't until reading the Gazetteer of Mount Tai in Ningyang that he realized yesterday's tour had only covered common pilgrimage sites—mere entry into the mountain's "great hall." Of its profound scenic wonders, he hadn't even glimpsed one in ten. Moreover, the golden sunlight he witnessed was just ordinary afternoon glow, not the spectacular sunrise phenomenon.
This realization brought disappointment, yet upon reflection, the journey had already enriched his life's experiences. He mused that with half a month's time—waiting for clouds to disperse while lodging on the mountain with provisions to accompany his elderly mother—he wouldn't have been so rushed. Had he brought the Gazetteer and explored with vigorous companions using walking sticks to follow its maps, more wonders might have been revealed. He wondered: Was he simply unskilled at travel, or had the mountain deity deliberately concealed its beauties?
Finally, the author recalled his youthful travels to famous mountains like Gusu (Suzhou), Wulin (Hangzhou), Dongting, and Yixing, their marvels shifting in his memory. While he once harbored regrets about the Eastern and Western Dongting Mountains, he now felt at peace, uncertain whether this lifetime would suffice to behold all the world's renowned peaks.
The Records of Mount Tai (Daishi) documents Ming dynasty official Yu Shenxing's pilgrimage to the sacred mountain. Though residing at its foothills and having ascended multiple times, his visits typically occurred in late autumn during the grand temple fair at the Shrine of the Azure Dawn Primordial Sovereign (Bixia Yuanjun). During these events, hundreds of thousands of devotees would flock to the mountain, their nighttime processions resembling swarms of fireflies as lantern-lit crowds wound upward like ant colonies, their collective clamor reverberating through the valleys until scarcely a foothold remained. Moreover, with autumn streams parched and foliage withered, the mountain revealed barely a tenth of its majestic beauty.
Yu maintained that the most extraordinary vistas appeared during the fifth and sixth lunar months when waterways brimmed with vitality, yet he seldom ventured forth then due to summer heat. It wasn't until the sixth month of 1581 (Xinsi year of the Wanli era), while convalescing at Gucheng Mountain, that his friend Zhu Kedai visited. Gazing at the qi-laden clouds wreathing Mount Tai in the distance, the two resolved to journey together. Setting out from East-Flowing Spring on the nineteenth day, they reached the mountain base after two days' travel. At dawn the following morning, dressed in formal attire, they paid homage at the Imperial Shrine of the Sacred Peak—a celestial palace-like complex oriented southward with its back to the northern heights.
Their ascent began three li east from Dengfeng Gate at Twin Observatories (First Heavenly Gate), where they switched to bamboo sedans. The stone steps rose precipitously like overlapping scales, the peaks above hanging like clouds from heaven, so sheer that climbing seemed nearly impossible. Upon reaching the Jade Emperor Temple (Yuhuang Guan) at Turning Horse Ridge, they realized the surrounding summits now lay beneath them—yet loftier crags like Auspicious Immortal Cliff still loomed ahead. At the most treacherous stretches, four bearers carried each sedan using tree trunks, the rear carriers' feet nearly touching the heads of those in front, so acute was the incline. This vivid account illuminates both the arduous realities and transcendent allure of literati pilgrimages to Mount Tai during the Ming dynasty.
The passage depicts the magnificent scenery and cultural relics encountered while ascending Mount Tai. The two climbers, panting and drenched in sweat, could scarcely take in their surroundings. Flanking the mountain path were crimson cliffs and emerald precipices, with peaks rising layer upon layer amidst swirling clouds and mist—the landscape shifting endlessly with the changing weather.
Waterfalls cascaded down the cliff faces, their spray churning like snow-white waves, the sound of rushing water swelling and fading like suspended ropes and chiming jade rings welcoming visitors. The spring waters from Shui Lian Dong (Water Curtain Cave) surged down the mountainside, vanishing abruptly into the deep valley only to reappear from crevices in the rocks. Stone and wooden bridges crisscrossed the path, and travelers, afraid of missing any marvel, dared not glance away carelessly—realizing only then that what they had seen so far was but a glimpse of Mount Tai’s wonders.
After several more miles, they reached Huang Xian Ridge, where the path twisted and turned. Yu Zhang Ping (Imperial Tent Terrace), said to be where Qin Shi Huang once took shelter from wind and rain during his ascent, lies halfway up the mountain, backed by the main peak and embraced by surrounding ridges. Here, a vast stone pool spans several acres, its rushing waters roaring as they plunge downward. Emperor Zhenzong of the Song Dynasty once camped here, leaving behind remnants of his visit, including pavilions. In front of one such pavilion stand two pine trees, traditionally identified as the "Five Grandee Pines" supposedly ennobled by Qin Shi Huang—though in truth, pines growing from rock crevices rarely grow tall, and while their bark resembles dragon scales, suggesting centuries of age, they could hardly date back to the Qin Dynasty. The title "Five Grandees" was a Qin-era noble rank, and may not have referred to five actual trees.
Climbing further, the terrain grew ever steeper, with sheer cliffs soaring into the clouds. The rocks took on bizarre and indescribable shapes—round or square, hanging or elongated, jagged and grotesque. The cliffs were a riot of color: deep reds and blues resembling palace halls, jade-green bands of sky glimpsed between rocks, pine forests like emerald hair, pale patches like painted moss, and what looked like birds' nests perched on dizzying precipices—actually the dwellings of Daoist hermits. Peering into the valleys below, the depths seemed bottomless. After several more miles, they reached the Great and Small Dragon Mouths, where stone gorges and thundering waterfalls created a spectacular sight.
This passage depicts the Daoist temple landscapes and ancient sites on Mount Tai (Daiyue). Beginning at Doumu Temple (a shrine dedicated to the Mother of the Northern Dipper) near Longkou, the cliffs along the path are dotted with grotto-heavens and blessed lands where immortals dwell, hailed as "Divine Abodes of the Grotto-Heavens, Mansions of Hundred Spirits."
Ascending the ancient Eighteen Bends path, one gazes up at the Heavenly Gate suspended like an archery target against steep emerald cliffs. The author describes sweating profusely upon reaching the summit, first visiting Bixia Palace (dedicated to the Mount Tai goddess Bixia Yuanjun). This temple, backed by the Jade Emperor Peak and facing the Five-Flower Peak, is flanked by Sunrise Viewing Peak and the Elder Peak. Its golden-green splendor even surpasses the mountain's Yue Temple below. To the west lies the Jade Maiden Pool (a legendary immortal bathing spot), its dark waters brimming with numinous Qi (vital energy), with a nearby cliff bearing over ten seal-script characters carved by Li Si of the Qin dynasty.
East of Bixia Palace stands Qingdi Temple (dedicated to the Green Emperor of the East), behind which sheer cliffs bear inscriptions from Emperor Xuanzong of Tang's Fengshan mountain worship ceremony. Several hundred paces north leads to Mount Tai's ultimate summit—the Jade Emperor Temple (dedicated to the Jade Emperor). This was the very altar where Qin Shi Huang performed Fengshan rites, now marked by the legendary wordless stele attributed to him. Leaning on the temple's rear railings, one sees Mount Tai's seventy-two peaks undulating like coiled dragons, their branches stretching all the way to the Eastern Sea.
The text also mentions immortal caves on Mount Tai's northern slopes—Peach Blossom Grotto and Bright Moon Grotto—along with celestial scenes recorded by ancient immortals: golden couches and jade tables. It concludes with Han dynasty Fengshan altar ruins, marveling how ancient claims of Mount Tai spanning three thousand li now visibly stretch across three provinces. Through a spatial narrative, the passage weaves together Mount Tai's Daoist sacred sites and natural wonders.
This passage depicts the mystical experience of witnessing sunrise at Mount Tai (also known as Dai). The author first encounters a massive bluish-green boulder about ten feet square, covered with white clouds—this is the legendary "Yanwu" (a Daoist term denoting cloud-veiled immortal realms). To the east lies the famous Riguan Peak (Sun-Viewing Peak), but instead of heading directly there, the author ascends southward to Sheshen Terrace (Body-Sacrificing Platform).
The Sheshen Terrace is a precipitous peak with a flat summit barely a few feet across, overlooking thousand-foot chasms below. Three stones form a narrow "Immortal's Bridge"—crossing it allows one to sit directly on the platform. At sunset, the cliffs glow with rosy clouds while mountain winds tear at robes with rock-splitting force, as the group drinks freely beneath the spectacle.
Gazing southwest, they behold what appears to be a sprawling city with dark embankments, only to realize it's a sea of clouds—here the formations resemble fireworks, broad at the base and tapering upward, utterly unlike earthly perspectives. When the moon rises, Daoist adepts (yu ren, "feathered immortals") accompany songs with sheng and xiao flute music until all are drunken with revelry. The mountain's penetrating chill even dampens bedding, making sleep impossible.
Stepping onto the altar platform under the moon's radiance, the author finds stars seemingly within arm's reach. Below, the cloud ocean shimmers like molten silver, its undulating waves indistinguishable—this is what Daoism calls the "Three Palaces of Emptiness and Vacuity" (san gong kong dong zhi tian, the highest celestial realm). Hearing midnight is optimal for sunrise viewing, the Daoists advise departing during the fifth watch (3-5 AM) in fifth/sixth lunar months.
Thus at the appointed hour, clad in fur with torches, they climb again. They witness qi exhaled from valleys—first as wispy tendrils, then swelling into east-west streaming vapors swift as chariots, vanishing instantly. The group shouts in exhilaration at this unprecedented marvel.
As dawn breaks, looking back reveals peaks like recumbent oxen and carriage canopies fading from view. The sky blazes with crimson clouds interwoven with emerald light staining sleeves. Suddenly a red disk surges from the horizon—a lotus swaying on cloud-waves, dazzlingly radiant. Mistaking this for sunrise, they're astonished when an even larger disk appears, swaying as if suspended by two ropes before stabilizing. The Daoists explain: the lotus disk was merely the sun's reflection on the sea, while the true sun only now emerges. At full height, all colored glows vanish, leaving only a faint white line on the distant ocean—"That," says the adept, "is the real sea."
This passage describes the author's observations and reflections while climbing Mount Tai (Daiyue). Here's a modern interpretation:
That day, dark clouds resembling mountain ranges or the Great Wall stretched across the left side of the sky. My companion Keda remarked that the scene looked like the legendary six giant turtles carrying immortal mountains. A Daoist priest (yuren) explained these were simply cloud formations. Laughing, we walked to the Wanghai Stone, where we drank wine freely and fell into a drunken slumber. Though our attendants called out in alarm, I merely glanced sideways at them, feeling a surge of heroic spirit within. Turning around, I ascended the Immortal Platform, from where the Zhangren Peak and Yueguan Peak appeared close enough to touch westward.
I recalled climbing Mount Tai years ago with Zichong, leaning against Yueguan Peak to gaze into the distance. Now standing atop Zhangren Peak, I could overlook the Taihang Mountains and wanted to call out to Zichong, though exhaustion had prevented him from joining. As I descended leaning on my staff, my mood grew increasingly uplifted. The roadside stones grew more fantastical, the waters and woods more beautiful. Every few li, we'd seek out fine trees and clear springs or sit chest-out on boulders between peaks. Raising my cup to Keda, I said: "Isn't this like Boya's rain-sheltering cave? Do you now understand the artistic conception of 'high mountains and flowing streams' (the legend of musical soulmates)?"
After descending from one section, we rested at Yanyan Pavilion. Turning toward the Scripture Platform direction, about a li to the left stood a sloping stone altar nestled in a mountain bend - several mu in area, carved with the complete Heart Sutra in ancient seal script, each character large as a peck measure. North of the altar, a waterfall cascaded from the summit past the scripture platform, mist swirling above the water. Through the watery veil, the carved characters remained clearly visible. The cliff bore giant characters reading "Using Water as Curtains." I'd missed this spot during previous visits because its secluded location off the main path kept it hidden by passing travelers.
Descending past the Scripture Platform and exiting Tianyi Gate, a left turn brought us to Daiyue Temple with its Han Emperor-planted cypresses. Another li eastward lay the Queen Mother's Pool, its overflowing waters fed by a waterfall twice the size of the Scripture Platform's. When rain began, we rode from the mountains along stream-fed paths. At nightfall, we traveled several li by torchlight, listening to water rush beneath our carriage before reaching an inn.
Heavy rain the next morning prompted our host to suggest visiting Sanyang Temple. As we hurried there, below Baizhang Peak we witnessed multiple waterfalls plunging from the heavens - a southwestern vista wholly different from previous sights. A local mountain dweller said: "According to ancient maps I've seen, the northern mountains bear the yin aspect of earth veins (diluo), connecting to Taihang and Wangwu Mountains before terminating at Yiwulü Mountain eastward, while the southern mountains carry the yang aspect..."
This passage describes the geographical features of Mount Tai (also known as Daizong) and the author's travel observations.
Mount Tai stands like a screen by the sea, gazing westward toward the mountain ranges. Rivers such as the Wen, Guang, Yi, and Si flow from its branches, winding like ribbons before emptying into the ocean. In ancient times, the Yellow River coursed between Yan and Qi, carrying the Ji River north of Mount Tai into the sea. Now, the river has shifted its course, instead flowing south of the mountain and merging with the Huai River—a natural transformation of the land. From the summit, the author looked northward and saw only the vast, indistinct traces of the old Nine Rivers, blending into the horizon.
On the 24th day of the sixth lunar month, Lü Kun (a native of Luoyang), the Shandong provincial administration commissioner, observed the sunrise from Riguang Peak (Sun-Watching Peak). Located about a hundred paces east of Mount Tai, legend says that at cockcrow, the sun rises from the eastern land of Yuyi, passing through the Fusang Tree with golden flashes and purple mists swirling around it. The sea reflects shimmering waves for miles, while the morning clouds spread like brocade, and the newborn sun resembles molten gold—a scene both mystical and magnificent. The author discussed this with Tian Zhuxiao, who remarked that when he visited the Orchid Pavilion, he felt the modern reenactment of the "floating wine cups along the winding stream" had lost its ancient charm. Even those who tried to replicate the Orchid Pavilion were merely trying to salvage Wang Xizhi’s legacy. Many famous scenic spots in the world are overrated; local gazetteers often exaggerate the so-called "Eight Views" and similar attractions. Heaven and Earth hold no inherent marvels, and sages do not seek the extraordinary—yet people are always amazed by rare sights. Concerned that future climbers might be misled by hearsay, the author wrote this reflection on sunrise viewing.
Huiche Rock (Turning Back Chariot Rock) lies just a few dozen paces near the Scholars’ Peak, marking the starting point of the path to Yellow Flower Cave—a treacherous mountain trail. Yellow Flower Cave is about fifteen li behind Riguang Peak, and locals say it was where Bixia Yuanjun (the Goddess of Mount Tai) cultivated her practice. The cave is just tall enough to graze one’s hat and barely wide enough for a small table. Water drips like rain from the crevices, providing enough for ten people’s cooking needs. In front of the cave is a small clearing with two modest shrines and a few thatched huts, housing two or three elderly nuns. Fresh pines encircle the cliffs nearby, their verdant beauty charming—but beyond this, there is little else remarkable. Descending northeast from the Scholars’ Peak…
This passage recounts the author's experience of watching the sunrise from Mount Tai (Daiyue) and his subsequent reflections. He describes how the journey begins with a five-to-six-li cart ride from the mountain's base to Luan Shi Gou (Chaotic Stone Gully), but upon reaching Duzu Pan (One-Foot Plateau), one encounters sheer cliffs and jagged boulders. During the Longqing era (1567-1572), a cart accident here injured several people, with passengers barely escaping alive. The area lacks lodging and provisions, with scarcely any signs of human habitation—once descending, returning becomes nearly impossible. The author mentions travelers caught in rain or snow whose attendants huddled frozen in valleys, half of them improperly clothed, some even perishing from cold and hunger.
Serving as the guardian of Dongfan and concurrently as Mount Tai's Incense Commissioner (the official overseeing sacrifices to the mountain) during the Wanli era's Dinghai year (1587), the author climbed the mountain three times, staying overnight each time. Yet each dawn brought thick mist, leaving him deeply disappointed. Local woodcutters told him there were only three optimal moments to witness the sunrise: first, during the first lunar month when rain ceases and sea halos don't rise; second, in late autumn when the air is crisp, skies newly clear, and dust absent; and third, midwinter after snowfall when clouds disperse. But such perfect conditions rarely occur even once a year. The woodcutter added that he often rose early on clear days to watch the sunrise, though now in old age, he'd seen it many times.
When the author asked what the sunrise looked like, the woodcutter countered, "Have you seen the sunset?" The author replied affirmatively, to which the woodcutter said, "Then you already know." Initially feeling deceived by legends, the author later ascended again in the eleventh month, coinciding with freshly cleared skies after heavy snow. Bitter mountain winds left the palanquin bearers too frozen to speak. Struggling to the summit, they witnessed red light shimmering from what seemed the sea's depths. The rising sun appeared like a mirror—larger than at noon yet not glaring, red like the setting sun but devoid of sunset hues—a sight the woodcutter had never described.
After this experience, the author caught a severe chill and nearly fell ill, realizing then how predecessors had exaggerated to create mystical effects. Later generations, knowing their observations fell short of these tales, felt too ashamed to admit it and perpetuated the embellishments to deceive newcomers. In truth, everyone has seen the morning sun, and mountain dwellers could describe it plainly. Just as Wang Lin....
This passage records the journey of Wu Tongchun, a Ming Dynasty official (Vice Commissioner of the Provincial Surveillance Circuit, originally from Gushi, Henan), during his revisit to Mount Tai. Having previously visited the mountain during the winter of the Guiwei year seven years prior, he decided on the 20th day of the sixth lunar month in the Jichou year to explore previously missed sites after concluding official business in Tai'an.
He reunited with his old friend Li Zidan (a local of Tai'an), whom he hadn't seen in over a decade, and together they lamented the swift passage of time. At noon, they set out from Dengfeng Gate, passing Puzhao Temple and the "Book-Throwing Brook" of Lord Hu Wending (whose waters originate from Linghan Peak), eventually arriving at the secluded and precipitous Sanyang Hermitage midway up the mountain. The hermitage housed a perennial mountain spring, with the Xuandi Temple (dedicated to the Daoist deity Mysterious Emperor of the North Pole) and the Jade Emperor Pavilion situated above it, where several Daoist practitioners lived in quiet cultivation.
Two resident Daoists appeared extraordinary yet taciturn. Over a meal of bean-leaf porridge, Wu and Li discussed Confucian and Daoist self-cultivation. Wu maintained that Confucianism inherently contained cultivation methods, citing Confucius's saying "the benevolent enjoy longevity," Zengzi's observation that "virtue nourishes body and mind," and Mencius's concept of "the vast, flowing qi manifesting in one's countenance." He criticized those who abandon self-cultivation to seek external paths, comparing them to Wang Yangming's metaphor of "discarding family treasures to beg door-to-door." As evening fell, they departed eastward from the hermitage, following little-trodden mountain paths near Gaolao Bridge under the Daoists' guidance, searching for scenic wonders like the "Heavenly Ribbon Spring" and "Immortal's Shadow."
This passage recounts the author's journey with his friend Zidan to Mount Tai (Dai Zong), vividly documenting the landscapes and cultural relics along the way through a travelogue style. Here is a vernacular interpretation of the scenes:
To the northwest stands a peak resembling layered lotus petals in full bloom—appearing close yet difficult to reach—known as Jiunü Peak. From Gaolao Bridge to Shijing Valley, Zidan and I paused to admire the mountain springs before tracing their source upstream. Heading north for over a li, we treaded on slippery rocks, listening to the泉水 (spring water) trickling through crevices, its sound fluctuating like a duet of sheng and xiao flutes. In the depths of the lush forest, birds and magpies chattered noisily, creating a refreshing and uplifting scene, much of which I had never seen in previous visits. Zidan kept recounting old stories, but I could only recall half, leaving me lost in contemplation for a long while.
As night fell, we carried torches from Shijing Valley to the mountaintop’s Imperial Tent Platform to view the large stone inscriptions we had carved with friends beside the cliffside waterfall years ago. Under the moonlight, the sound of rushing water added to the poetic atmosphere. By the second watch, we reached the New Stone Platform—built by Councilor Lü Shujian to replace the old one, which had seen frequent accidents during spring rituals. Though the sedan carriers claimed the old path was smoother, I insisted on taking the new route, arriving at our lodging only by the third watch.
At the fifth watch, we rose to witness the sunrise, a sight unchanged from previous years. Reflecting on the journey, the scenes felt as vivid as yesterday yet also like a fleeting dream. After breakfast, I revisited the Qin Dynasty stone stele (Qin Seal Script Stele) and noticed discrepancies with Liu Ba’s records: three sides of the stele were embedded in a wall, making them illegible. I ordered strong men to extract it, only to find that barely half of Liu Ba’s description remained. Originally, the front face should have had seven lines of text, but only the three rightmost lines survived. The other three sides had been altered by later carvings. While cleaning and rubbing the stele, I discovered its surface, though rough in appearance, shared the same lustrous texture as the Wordless Stele—a reminder that many things in this world are not as they seem. To protect this millennia-old relic from further damage, I had it re-embedded in the wall.
In the afternoon, Zidan rested due to tired feet, while I ventured alone to Wuhua Rock. Sitting at its heart, I gazed down at the ravines below, as if they were laid out before me like a painting. Later, I traveled about eight li past the right side of Confucius Cliff and arrived at Luan Shi Gou to continue the journey.
After walking about a li, we arrived at Duzu Pan, where thousands of wild cranes circled and soared above the mountain peak—this is why it's called Crane Mountain. A few more li brought us to Huanghua Cave, the very place where the Jade Maiden (a Daoist female immortal) cultivated the true Dao. This was a site I had longed to visit for years but had never reached. Located on the northeastern side of Mount Tai's main peak, halfway up Crane Mountain, the path here is several times more treacherous than that to Sanyang Temple (a famous Daoist temple on Mount Tai), yet its secluded beauty surpasses Sanyang Temple by the same measure. Spring water gushes from the mouth of a dragon-shaped stone carving, its flow much greater than at Sanyang Temple. Only a few elderly nuns dwell here in solitude, and the temple's scale and incense offerings don't even amount to a third of Sanyang Temple's, making it rarely visited. Had I not taken this detour, I likely wouldn't have come either.
Seated cross-legged with Zidan, we discoursed on the Dao, exploring what he had gained from over a decade of cultivation. Zidan seemed quite accomplished and shared his essential insights with me, all largely rooted in Chan (Zen) Buddhist thought. He mentioned frequent exchanges with various eminent scholars, finding perfect accord with their views. I couldn't help but sigh: "These truths cannot be exhausted in one conversation. The world follows Chan Buddhism, while I alone do not. Why is it that I once followed Chan yet have recently come to reject it? Chan adherents see immediate results, while I—finding no efficacy—have altered my approach. Can you believe this, Zidan?"
"Consider this carefully, Zidan: From the sage emperors Yao and Shun through the Three Dynasties of Xia, Shang, and Zhou, down to Confucius and Mencius—there was no Chan Buddhism in their era. Can one not attain the Dao without practicing Chan? Were these ancient sages and worthies all outsiders to the Dao? Once I yearned for Chan like a starving man, yet now I reject it. Does prolonged cultivation actually distance one from the Dao?"
"People diligently practice Chan yet have never truly studied the Way of Confucius and Mencius. Thus when Confucian learning shows no efficacy, they claim it insufficient for entering the Dao. But if one could apply Chan's diligence to Confucian practice, wouldn't entering the Dao become nearer and easier? You say Chan comprehends emptiness (sunyata), yet Confucius said 'empty as though void.' Has our Confucian tradition ever valued only the substantial? We embrace both emptiness and substance. You speak of Chan's meditative stillness (samadhi), yet The Great Learning states 'knowing where to rest brings stillness.' Has Confucianism ever valued only action? We balance stillness and movement."
"Those concepts of emptiness and stillness in Buddhism are actually later clever but eccentric minds plagiarizing Confucian teachings to embellish Buddhism, claiming sudden enlightenment as Buddhism's shortcut. In truth, among tens of thousands of Buddhist scriptures, eighty or ninety percent contain such content. Was the Buddha truly a sage of the West? Even Master Wang Yangming said his enlightenment came from reading Buddhist texts—but that was merely accidental insight into partial truths, like understanding the Dao from watching porters argue over right-of-way."
This dialogue reflects deep contemplation on the relationship between Chan Buddhism and Confucianism during the Ming Dynasty's era of Confucian-Daoist synthesis. Through personal experience, the author observes that Dao cultivation need not be confined to Chan methods—Confucian classics equally contain profound cultivation wisdom. The key lies in sincere practice.
While watching Gongsun Daniang perform her sword dance, I realized that the art of calligraphy is not merely about brush techniques. If one only observes Gongsun Daniang herself without perceiving how she merges with the Dao of the sword in her dance, one can never grasp the true essence of calligraphy. This principle runs deep—though Zidan (likely a person's name) didn't disagree with me, neither did he fully concur. Noticing my frail physique, he then taught me methods of yangsheng (nourishing life). While these techniques differed from what the Daoist priest (huangguan referring to Daoist clergy) had previously mentioned, they didn't contradict the cultivation methods we'd discussed earlier.
After bidding farewell to Zidan, I turned left from the mountain cave and traveled fifteen li, passing Small Ox-Heart Rock and Great Ox-Heart Rock until reaching Twin Phoenix Ridge. This ridge, wedged between two mountains, rises vertically for five li with slopes spreading like phoenix wings on either side. The local mountain dwellers didn't know its name, so I inscribed "Twin Phoenix Ridge" in large characters on the cliff face. East of the ridge stands a peak hundreds of zhang taller—to Taishan's left lies Jieqiu, to its right Shilü, and this was indeed Jieqiu. Sitting halfway up the mountain, I gazed afar where Zhou Mingtang (Taishan's sacrificial ruins) and the eastern peaks appeared deceptively close.
Descending northward fifteen li, I followed a precarious path winding dozens of li along the mountain base, clinging to cliff faces—this was Ai Valley. Here the road leveled slightly. Traversing forests and crossing deep gorges for another fifteen li, I lodged overnight at Foyu Temple (also called Valley Mountain Temple). Hidden deep in the mountains, its approach wasn't particularly dangerous but supremely tranquil. A great gorge nearby roared with rainwater during storms, while in clear weather one could hear crystalline springs trickling through stone crevices. Two black-robed monks greeted me with bell chimes. Expecting an ornate temple, I found instead two dilapidated halls and thatched huts, half their roofs blown away by wind—not even proper monastic beds, just two low tables pushed together as makeshift bedding. These monks lived in greater poverty than San Yang Guan's Daoists, their conditions worse even than Huanghua Cave's nuns.
The next day, five li beyond the mountain valley brought me to the road leading toward Tai'an Prefecture and the provincial capital's eastern side. Crossing Jade Emperor Ridge from North-South Gao Village via Budongkou would reach the provincial capital. This route descending from Taishan's northern foothills follows a secluded path rarely taken by ordinary travelers.
(Postscript notes the author Chen Wenshu, then Minister of the Court of Judicial Review and native of Mianyang, Hubei. In the wuyin year of Wanli era [1578], as Left Administration Vice Commissioner of Shandong overseeing water transport, he originally planned to visit Taishan with Li Bocheng of Puzhou, but undertook the journey alone by land after Li fell ill.)
This passage describes the author's journey to Mount Tai (anciently called Daizong). It begins at the Yue Temple within Tai'an Prefecture, where towering stone steles, ancient tripods, and verdant pines and cypresses stand in the courtyard, interspersed with curiously shaped rocks bearing inscriptions from the Song and Yuan dynasties. After paying respects at the temple, the author exits through the Dengfeng Gate, arriving at the foot of Mount Tai at the First Heaven Gate. Here, the Flying Cloud Pavilion rises as a stone platform with arched passageways beneath, where spring water murmurs as it flows.
Gazing upward, the author sees Mount Tai shrouded in mist, dwarfing all other hills—only Mount Culai stands prominently in view. Passing the Doumu Hall and Gaolao Bridge, the author reaches the Temple of Marquis Shou of Han (Guan Yu), just before the Water Curtain Cave. Here, a waterfall plunges from towering cliffs into a deep ravine, winding like coiling dragons and slithering serpents, its spray forming jade-white rainbows that touch the earth and a celestial river cascading from the heavens, dampening travelers' robes. A few dozen steps further lies the Stone Scripture Valley, where a vast, flat boulder large enough to seat hundreds is inscribed with the Diamond Sutra in bold clerical script. Spring waters gather here into crystal-clear pools.
After passing the Yanyan Pavilion, which bears the plaque "Lofty Mountains and Flowing Waters," the author reaches Mapeng Cliff, where three ink characters said to have been written by Lü Dongbin remain unfaded despite weathering. Resting briefly at the Jade Emperor Temple on Ruixian Cliff, the author arrives at Huima Ridge, where sedan chairs can no longer proceed. The path winds three or four turns up the increasingly perilous Huangxian Ridge, forcing travelers to move single-file, with the head of the person in front nearly touching the feet of the one behind. After this rugged stretch, a sudden three-li stretch of level ground appears, aptly named "Three Leisurely Miles."
Upon reaching the Second Heaven Gate, the author visits the ruins of the Imperial Encampment where Emperor Zhenzong of the Song once stayed, as well as the "Five Noble Pines" (now two replacement trees) enfeoffed by Qin Shi Huang. The roaring wind through the pines sounds like dragons chanting, as if about to ascend to the heavens. To the north stands an ancient pine, its gnarled branches spreading like a canopy, likened to the noble scholar Lu Zhonglian. Finally, passing the Chaoyang Cave and the cascading waterfalls of the Great and Small Dragon Valleys, the author arrives beside the valley where Hong Chaoxuan inscribed "Tower of Heaven and Earth," quoting his reflections on how "the stability of the world rests upon Mount Tai's firmness, upheld by the bonds of ritual, righteousness, integrity, and shame."
This passage describes the experience and insights gained from ascending Mount Tai. Let me interpret it for you in modern terms:
Mount Tai symbolizes the foundation of establishing one's life and destiny, a truth that requires quiet contemplation to comprehend. Walking several miles along the valley to reach the Eighteen Bends, one gazes up at the canyon entrance from the winding mountain path, where the sky appears a deep jade green, resembling precious dark blue pearls - truly a heavenly grotto where immortals dwell. After exhausting the climb to reach the Three Heavenly Gates, distant clouds swirl around the White Cloud Cave as if ready to release life-giving rain upon the world. Within the Heavenly Gates lies flat land forming a market settlement with several dozen households.
Originally, Mount Tai's Heavenly Gates had no structures - the current temples were built by Master Zhang Lian (a Daoist title). The first night was spent at the Gazing Upward Pavilion, followed the next day by paying respects at the Azure Cloud Shrine. The original stone statue of the Azure Cloud Primordial Goddess (Mount Tai's female deity) stood by the Jade Maiden Pool, replaced with a jade statue during the Song dynasty. According to Li E's Records of the Jade Pool, this goddess was a jade maiden sent by the Yellow Emperor to cultivate into an immortal, dressed in feathered robes and Daoist headdress. Some mistakenly believe her to be the daughter of the Great Emperor of the Eastern Peak. Each year, people from all directions offer gold, silver, jewels and horses as tribute.
Beside the Jade Maiden Pool remains the Qin Shihuang's Merit Stele inscribed in Li Si's seal script, with over a dozen characters still discernible. Another mile brings one to the Eastern Peak Temple, smaller in scale than the Azure Cloud Shrine. Here stands Emperor Taizong of Tang's Cliff Inscription of Mount Tai in clerical script, with powerful brushwork; to its right are Su Ting's Ode to the Eastern Peak and Yan Zhenqing's inscribed name, both displaying Jin dynasty calligraphic elegance though sadly damaged by human hands. Turning north leads to the Green Emperor Palace, comparable in size to the Eastern Peak Temple. Here stands Qin Shihuang's wordless stele, rumored to contain a stone case holding golden tablets and jade books, though none through the ages have confirmed this. The yellowish-white stele has an exceptionally smooth texture, unlike local Mount Tai stone.
Ascending to the ancient Fengshan Altar on Taiping Peak, one sees Emperor Taizu of Ming's imperial stele. Gazing into the distance, the Yellow River appears like a ribbon, with the Zi, Mian, Ji and Si rivers encircling below, while great mountains like Taihang, Hua and Kongtong seem like miniature objects on a table. Climbing west to the Elder Peak, one experiences the breathtaking cliffs. Descending to visit the Immortal Gorge Palace and pay respects to Confucius' statue at the "Viewing the Small World" site (where Confucius ascended), between clouds above and seas below - only Confucius' breadth of vision could match such a panorama. Who dares say Mount Tai is inferior to Lin Fang (Confucius' disciple)? Compared to small hills, Mount Tai stands as the sage stands above ordinary people. None have revered Mount Tai more than Confucius and Mencius.
Local officials hosted a banquet where Daoists repeatedly urged wine upon me until I returned quite drunk. This journey truly broadened my horizons, and I again lodged at the Gazing Upward Pavilion. Watching the sun sink into the legendary Mengsi (where the sun sets), under bright moonlight at midnight, the views from observation platforms like Yue, Qin and Wu appeared picturesque. In the fourth watch before dawn, a Daoist invited me to witness sunrise. As we ascended Sunrise Peak, strong winds suddenly arose.
The weather was bitterly cold when a Daoist priest took off his own robe and draped it over my shoulders. The world was blanketed in pure white, as if encased in flawless jade, blurring the boundaries between the dome of heaven and square earth. Suddenly, three crimson rays flashed from the eastern sea as the morning sun gradually rose, transforming the myriad scenes before us. All seventy-two peaks of Mount Tai revealed their verdant majesty in full splendor. Standing atop the Sea-Viewing Tower and gazing at the Cliff of Self-Sacrifice, the priest occasionally tugged at my sleeve as we surveyed the surroundings.
Returning from Flat-Summit Cliff to the Taiqing Palace (Supreme Purity Temple), we came upon the Wan Gong Biao Ridge Stele and couldn't help marveling: What magnificent writing! Among the Five Sacred Mountains, Mount Tai holds the most exalted position, and its highest honor lies in the primordial boulders of its summit. How can a mountain maintain its dignity when people build dwellings upon its peak and trample across its sacred heights? Only by preserving its original form can the mountain spirit breathe freely, revealing a world of luminous clarity. The seventy-two emperors who performed Fengshan ceremonies here throughout history must have all departed with some regret, I suppose.
Descending along our original path toward Tai'an Prefecture at dawn's first light, I recalled my intention to visit the Confucian Forest. The Zhu and Si Rivers connect to Mount Tai's mountain veins—so close to the Sage's ancestral home—are these not all manifestations of the mountain's concentrated spiritual energy (Qi)? After witnessing Confucius' legacy, Mount Tai's stature seemed elevated to cosmic proportions, equal to heaven and earth.
Postscript: This account was compiled on the auspicious day of the Lantern Festival in the 35th year of the Wanli era (1607 CE), by Zhang Guoxiang—successor of the Zhengyi (Orthodox Unity) tradition, bearing the imperial title "Great Perfected One Who Condenses Sincerity, Aspires to the Dao, Expounds Mysteries, and Propagates Teachings," overseeing all Daoist affairs under heaven—proofread and published by imperial decree.
Source text: Kanripo 漢籍リポジトリ(KR5h0041); Licence: CC BY-SA 4.0 · Report an error / feedback