《天下名山記》Vol. 5
About this page. The original text of 《天下名山記》 Vol. 5 (Qing Daoist texts 清代道教文獻, 7 volumes) is shown in Classical Chinese as transmitted in the Kanripo (Kyoto University) edition. An English interpretation of the 70 passages on this page accompanies it: select a passage or press “Interpretation” to show it. All texts in English
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Source textInterpretation
This passage is a travelogue by the Ming Dynasty literatus Yuan Zhongdao recounting his pilgrimage to Wudang Mountain (revered in Daoism as the "Mystic Peak"). Departing from the flower-strewn source at Taoyuan County in Hunan, he sailed to Xiangyang before undertaking a three-day overland journey to the mountain's foothills.
Upon entering the sacred terrain, he was immediately struck by its transcendent beauty—pristine mountain hues and chiming springs creating an atmosphere seemingly detached from the mortal realm. Resting first at the Chu-domain Buddhist monastery, he formally began his ascent on the ninth day of the fourth lunar month. His route passed Xie Family Bridge and Caodian Village along immaculately maintained paths flanked by pines and cypresses, with vermilion Daoist temple gates (guan 观) glimpsed intermittently through the foliage.
He particularly noted a golden-flowered juniper before Chongxu Temple, its blossoms resembling ripe grain—a singular marvel of the mountain. At the Immortal Pass, delicate bamboo blanketed the slopes. Near Jade Purity Palace (Yu Zhen Gong), several bridges of jasper-like stone spanned the streams, while the Mystic Peak Gate resembled a grotto, said to have been sealed with clay by the immortal Fang Hui. Beyond this point, mist intertwined with resplendent golden-eaved temple complexes.
By Yuanhe Temple, rushing brooks accompanied the path branching left toward Jade Void Palace (Yu Xu Gong). Pressed for time, the author chose the central route instead, traversing steep inclines past Returning Dragon Temple (Huilong Guan), with the distant Heavenly Pillar Peak appearing divinely sculpted. Along the way, temples dedicated to Laozi, Lord Guan, and the Crown Prince Slope all exhibited exquisite upkeep. Descending the Eighteen Bends, spotless stone steps wound through dense arboreal shade, the roar of Dragon Spring Temple's bridge rapids audible below.
Here three paths diverged: one led to Purple Empyrean Palace (Zi Xiao Gong), South Cliff, and the Heavenly Pillar; another followed mountain streams to Nine Crossings Gully and Jade Void Cliff; while the third ascended to Qiongtai Temple. Recalling his elder brother Yuan Hongdao's poetic comparison of Qiongtai's scenery to "piled snow and thunderous cascades," the author countered complaints about Wudang's supposed lack of water features by guiding companions to mountain brooks—playfully "vindicating" the mountain spirits.
The text vividly documents Wudang's Ming-era architectural distribution and natural topography, emphasizing the harmonious integration of Daoist temple complexes within the sacred landscape. Through the author's itinerary, we glimpse classical pilgrimage routes of the period and the literati's aesthetic engagement with this Daoist holy site.
This passage vividly depicts the extraordinary rock formations and waterways of this sacred Daoist mountain. The stones take myriad forms—some scattered like raindrops, others cleaved as if by axe blades, displaying every conceivable type of weathering pattern. Rocks and flowing water create marvelous interactions: where boulders block the current, deep pools form; where streams divide stone masses, solitary islets emerge.
Their interplay manifests endless variations: when yielding rocks give way to dominant currents, the water flows broad and tranquil; where unyielding stone constricts the flow, roaring rapids cascade in tiered fury. As currents scour the riverbed, inert rocks seem to come alive as dragons, tigers, elephants, and rhinos, while towering cliffs force deep waters to leap skyward, transforming into floral sprays, pearl-like droplets, or snowflake-fine mist.
The waters paint the stones with hues of crimson sandstone and jade green, while the rocks compose melodies like zithers and lutes. Some boulders retreat from the current to form grottoes filled with icy vapors; others with concave summits mirror sunlight and moonlight in their pools. This wonderland continues for over twenty li until reaching the Jade Void Grotto (a sacred Neidan meditation site), where azure cliffs draped with pavilions stand encircled by flowing streams.
Further along the ravine, the channel narrows but the current grows swifter. The narrator pauses frequently amidst these fantastical rock formations. After thirty more li, fire-damaged Middle Qiongtai (a Daoist temple complex) comes into view, with distant vistas of Heavenly Pillar Peak and Candlewick Peak floating in a sea of emerald trees. Hermits cling to the cliffs like bees in honeycombs—clad in animal skins, consuming alchemical elixirs (Daoist cultivation practices), having severed worldly ties as they await feathered ascent (technical term for achieving Daoist transcendence).
As dusk falls upon Qiongtai Peak, its hairpin-shaped summit points forward—this is none other than the "Outer Court Peak" where Chen Tuan (the renowned Daoist master known as Xi Yi) practiced cultivation. At dawn the next day, passing behind Heavenly Pillar Peak to pay homage to the Divine Emperor (a Daoist deity), the pilgrim witnesses seventy-two peaks standing like ceremonial screens, their cloud-wreathed summits coiled like topknots.
This passage records the author's observations and reflections while visiting famous mountains. The text mentions that according to the Jingzhou Tujing, the mountain peaks resemble Boshan incense burners (ancient incense vessels), towering into the clouds. The Nanyong Zhouji notes three stone stairways on the mountain, with the highest path leading to what was called the Incense Burner Peak. Later, people renamed the main peak as the Heavenly Pillar Peak, while referring to the adjacent secondary peak as the Incense Burner Peak.
A fellow traveler inquired about the origins of the Mysterious Emperor (a revered Daoist deity). The author replied: The Mysterious Emperor was a descendant of Changyi, son of the Yellow Emperor (Huangdi), and a woman from the Shu Mountains—the Gao Yang lineage who resided near the Weak River and governed the seven river valleys. This Mysterious Emperor could command hundreds of deities, summon thunder and lightning, and tour the eight directions in an ornate chariot. Whenever encountering sacred mountains with grotto-heavens and immortal terraces or hills housing underworld palaces, he would seal them with stones from the Parthian Empire (ancient Persia) and cast precious tripods from Mount Yu's copper as offerings to the gods. This legend closely resembles the story of the Yellow Emperor casting his tripod on Mount Shou. The author mentions that Tao Hongjing (the renowned Southern Dynasties Daoist) maintained close ties with immortals like Yang Xi and Xu Mi, making these records relatively credible. As for the folk tale about the King of Pure Joy—this seems crude and unworthy of consideration.
The author reflects that throughout history, many recluses attained the Dao and ascended from mountain forests, yet few emperors achieved this. The fact that the Yellow Emperor and his descendants succeeded in casting tripods and riding clouds to heaven suggests a unique family tradition. Emperors like Qin Shi Huang and Han Wudi, lacking proper methods, vainly sought immortality through elixirs only to return to dust. Today, the Yellow Emperor's legacy is everywhere, yet the Mysterious Emperor's legends have been distorted by the ignorant.
Wandering through the mountains that day, intoxicated by the misty landscapes, the author mused: The most beautiful natural scenery often resists artificial adornment, while excessive human craftsmanship spoils its innate charm. This mountain's form and colors harmonize perfectly—elegant yet vibrant, refined without sterility, exquisite yet free from vulgarity. People often say the Five Sacred Mountains (Taishan, Huashan, etc.) struggle to escape mundanity—indeed, this seems true.
After paying homage to the Mysterious Emperor, the author descended from the Heavenly Gate, abandoning his sedan chair to walk. He made a pact with companions: Pause when jagged rocks pierce the clouds; linger where two mountains open abruptly, revealing peaks like coiled hair; stop when ancient trees whisper and streams murmur like secret conversations. As for ornate buildings with carved beams—pass them briskly, for such artificial constructs are not what truly merit appreciation.
The passage vividly depicts the majestic natural scenery and Daoist architectural complex of Mount Wudang. Beginning at Nanyan Palace (South Cliff Palace), the rock formations resemble colorful clouds, with an outer corridor leading straight to the palace gates—the halls are exceptionally grand. Behind the palace, multiple courtyards cling to the mountain cliffs, their structures extending like corridors, their iron-cast eaves and golden ornaments flickering in and out of view amidst the mist, while moss and crimson vines climb the stone walls.
Standing before the Sage Parents Hall and gazing toward Tianzhu Peak (Heavenly Pillar Peak), one is struck by its imposing majesty, like that of a sovereign. Along the path, ancient fir and pine trees—so large it would take dozens of people to encircle them—line the mountain trail, making the journey exhausting. The next day, after rain, the author continues the tour, passing Leidong (Thunder Cave) to reach Taizi Rock (Prince Rock), where the cliffs are bizarrely steep, and spring water drips melodiously. Descending further, they arrive at Zixiao Palace (Purple Cloud Palace), backed by Zhanqi Peak (Unfurled Banner Peak) and fronted by a deep, emerald-green pool said to have been left by the legendary Emperor Yu.
The area around Jiudu Stream (Nine Crossings) features magnificent stone bridges, with the brook winding around the right side of the palace, flanked by Daoist temples standing in orderly rows. This was once the construction site where the Ming Emperor Yongle mobilized over a hundred thousand laborers to carve mountain paths and build palaces—a project that took twelve years to complete, earning the place the name "Old Camp." While hurrying along in the rain, an elderly Daoist reminds the author that the shaded mountain path ahead requires no bamboo hat.
The scenery transitions from gentle to precipitous, with jagged rocks and dense foliage blocking the sun, accompanied by the pleasant chirping of birds. Approaching Renwei Temple, the roar of the stream grows louder, and waterfalls abound—especially around Qingyang Stream (Green Goat) and Taoyuan Cave (Peach Spring), where converging waters create a thunderous spectacle. The entire passage vividly captures Mount Wudang’s unique Daoist landscape, where "every five li stands a hermitage, every ten li a palace," seamlessly blending architecture with the natural beauty of mountains and waters.
This is where mountain streams converge, with the waters of Lazhu Jian gathering to form a winding creek. The terrain here is flat and open, unobstructed by any barriers. Visitors can not only hear the murmuring flow of water but also feast their eyes on the exquisite scenery. Between two mountains winds a narrow path, flanked by lush, dense forests along the stream.
Walking through here in daylight feels as quiet as night, and even under the blazing sun, the atmosphere remains as cool as moonlight. Streams like Qingyang Jian and Taohua Jian rush in from all directions, slithering like snakes through the grass or flowing as fine as silk threads—so swiftly that their destinations remain unknown. Thus, travelers often hear their sounds without seeing their forms. The wind rustling through the trees harmonizes with the rain falling in the mountain gullies, creating an ethereal, otherworldly serenity that seems detached from the mortal realm.
Upon reaching Wulong Gate, one sees two purple cypress trees and a path that twists and turns like nine bends and eighteen curves. Passing Langmei Terrace, the carved railings and stone carvings before the hall appear as smooth and warm as jade. Below the steps lie five wells of different colors, along with two pools named Sun and Moon—one deep blue, the other crimson red. It is said that when Chen Tuan (courtesy name Xiyi) cultivated in solitude at Qiongtai Peak, he often encountered two elderly men. Upon inquiry, he learned they were dragons from the Sun and Moon Pools beneath Wulong Peak—these very pools.
While dining at the Daoist quarters, I beheld the scenery of Nanyan Peak—verdant and dazzlingly vibrant—resembling a horizontal scroll painting by Li Zhaodao (a Tang dynasty painter known as "Little General Li"). A young novice guided me to Ziran Hermitage, the cultivation site of Zhang Sanfeng, where an imperial robe bestowed by the emperor is still preserved. Another five li to the back of the mountain, the path ends at a wooden scaffold, where a cave in the crevice marks Changshan Rock. There, I met a Daoist who had practiced Bigu (a Daoist fasting technique, abstaining from grains) for nineteen years. His complexion was ruddy, and he offered me some cakes made of atractylodes rhizome—sweet in taste but sparing in words.
As dusk fell, I returned to the temple complex. This site dates back to the Zhenguan era of the Tang dynasty, when Yao Jian, the prefect of Junzhou, prayed for rain and witnessed the apparition of five dragons, leading to the construction of the Wulong Shrine. Expanded and refined during the Yuan dynasty, it was renamed Wulong Palace and reached its zenith in the Ming. While many know of Chen Tuan's cultivation here, few are aware that figures like Yin Changsheng, Fang Changxu, Li Yuxi, Ma Mingsheng, and Tian Suoyi also attained immortality at this very place.
That night, the moon shone brilliantly, and through the open window, the lanterns of Nanyan Peak were clearly visible, making sleep elusive. At dawn, I retraced my steps and entered Yuxu Palace, whose scale rivals that of a large county town. Inside, rainbow-hued pillars with dragon motifs, intricately carved caisson ceilings, patterned stone pavements, and turquoise-tiled roofs create a breathtaking sight. Towers and pavilions stretch like clouds, while outside stand golden-lettered plaques on silver-framed kiosks and halls where true masters select disciples—a grandeur rarely seen among the temples of other famed mountains.
The passage describes the author's observations and impressions while visiting Wudang Mountain. Along the mountain path, Daoist temples and palaces are scattered in picturesque disorder, their architecture intricate and complex with countless gateways. Flowing water encircles the stone steps, while the sound of springs echoes near the wooden desks. Exotic flowers and rare herbs intertwine with ancient trees and old vines, their dense foliage blocking out the sun, creating a scene reminiscent of the legendary immortal mountains in the eastern sea.
In the mountain fields, springs wind around the ridges, where farmers can be seen working among the blossoms. The sounds of chickens and dogs drift through the misty clouds, making even the fabled Hibiscus City and Peach Blossom Spring pale in comparison. The author rests briefly at Wangxian Palace (Palace of Gazing at Immortals), but finding the scenery too magnificent to take in all at once, continues exploring with the aid of a walking stick. Local elders inform him this was the site of ancient Wudang County.
The author compares the entire Taihe Mountain to a handsome man: from Yuzhen Palace to Pingtai forms the "feet," where bamboo groves and clear springs adorn the most beautiful paths; from Pingtai to Zixiao Palace constitutes the "torso," with ancient fir trees towering into the clouds; from Zixiao to Tianmen (Heavenly Gate) forms the "chest," revealing the mountain's colorful rock veins; and from Tianmen to Tianzhu Peak (Heavenly Pillar Peak) represents the "head," where surging clouds best convey the mountain's majestic grandeur.
The mountain's left side features scenic spots like Nanyan, Wulong Palace, and Yuxu Palace, each with distinctive characteristics. The right side boasts attractions such as Sanqiong Terrace, Candle Gully, and Yuxu Cliff, offering either secluded tranquility or spectacular views. Travel companions praise the author's landscape descriptions, comparing him to the Eastern Jin painter Gu Kaizhi (styled Hutou, "Tiger Head") renowned for his depictions of mountains and waters. They spend the night at a temple before boarding a boat at Junzhou the next day for their return journey. The traveling party includes Yang Xiaolian, a provincial graduate from Guizhou; Yu Maocai, a county scholar from Xiangyang; and Wang Zhangfu from Hanyang.
The passage concludes by noting this is Tan Yuanchun's travelogue from the third month of the Bingchen year (1616) documenting his southern mountain excursion. As a native of Chu, he suddenly found himself discussing with Scholar Cai his desire to visit the southern peaks.
This travelogue recounts the journey of a man named Tanzi through Mount Heng (Southern Sacred Mountain) in Hunan. Written with exquisite detail, it captures the distinctive scenery encountered at various points along the ascent.
Tanzi believed that true mountain appreciation begins with learning to "read the mountain" - observing its changing aspects from different vantage points and weather conditions. He described unsuccessful attempts to view rainscapes at Lukou and moonlit vistas at Shanmen, only to truly perceive the mountain's form from the city outskirts, where peaks lay hidden in mist, revealing mere silhouettes. The landscape transformed continuously along the climbing route: from the county outskirts, emerald-green slopes peeked through cloud layers; midway up, myriad ridgelines became visible, though these proved different from the earlier glimpsed verdant peaks.
Ancient pines and maples lined the path, their lush greenery creating vibrant scenery. After thirty li, Yuefang presented dense foliage with fresh young leaves. Resting at Jixian Academy, they encountered an emaciated monk who recognized Zhouzi (a traveling companion) as a former student who had studied there, with Zhou Kai's inscribed calligraphy still preserved within.
The following day brought them to Water Curtain Cave, where white light flickered between cliffs as the waterfall cascaded like a flowing drapery. Over subsequent days of alternating sun and rain, Huayan Peak offered meteorological wonders that changed with location: clearing at Luosi Pond, then again at Yuban Stream - as if chasing fair weather. Above Ziyun Cave, springs exhaled white mist amid constant watery murmurs, their pools living up to their crystalline reputation. Near Yuban Bridge, luxuriant vegetation gradually muted the sound of flowing water.
At Mid-Mountain Pavilion, travelers already felt satisfied with their journey. Though continuing upward would lead to Iron Buddha Nunnery, they reserved this for the descent. Lacking enthusiasm for Xiangnan Temple, they only visited Danxia Temple, finding its structures dilapidated and unstable. Higher elevations remained perpetually cloud-wrapped, with indistinguishable seasonal changes, precarious monastic dwellings, and ascetic living conditions for resident monks. Through spatial progression, the account reveals Mount Heng's altitudinal variations, infused with Zen sensibility and natural charm.
This passage depicts Tan Yuanchun's journey to the sacred Daoist mountain Hengshan (Southern Peak) with his friend Zhou Zi, capturing its numinous landscapes and meditative atmosphere. Setting out from Danxia Gate, they encountered fantastical rock formations like the "Flying Ship Stone" suspended mid-air, its crevices entwined with ancient vines. Along the winding Beidou Ridge (Big Dipper Ridge), the path meandered like constellations, leaving them breathless from exertion.
Upon reaching Zhurong Peak's summit, they found old shrines and new hermitages scattered amidst rolling clouds, with occasional pilgrims perched on peculiar boulders. In this primordial unity where heaven and earth merged into monochrome, the sea of clouds churned like ten thousand galloping steeds. Tan grasped Zhou's hand as they sat silently observing this spectacle until the mists parted, revealing the miraculous vision of "Heaven and Earth Finding Their Positions" — emerald peaks competing in verdancy below, while distant lakes and nearby rivers coiled like white silk ribbons. At Huixian Bridge (the Daoist legendary Green Jade Altar), the vertiginous stone span hung over abysses where ancient pines craned their necks, and the "Heart-Testing Rock" stood in perilous grandeur.
A monk guided them along hidden paths to Guanyin Cliff before they lodged at Nantai Road's monastery. That night, as clouds dispersed to reveal crystalline stars, they rose at dawn to the Sunrise Platform, where the purity of ritual chimes (qing) resonated without clamor. Through shifting perspectives, the text interweaves Hengshan's ever-changing cloudscapes, extraordinary rock formations, and ancient pines with its spiritual ambiance, subtly embodying the Daoist mystery of "the harmony of heaven and humanity."
This passage describes the author's travels and impressions while visiting Mount Heng (the southern peak of China's Five Sacred Mountains). The account begins at dawn amidst swirling mists, first arriving at Guanyin Cliff where the temple pavilions stand pristine and bright, with spring water flowing beside secluded pathways. Following the back mountain route, the author passes temples like Iron Buddha Nunnery and Tusita Nunnery before nearing Fuyan Temple. Throughout the journey, Lion Peak and Heavenly Pillar Peak remain constant companions, while the ravines and gullies to the left continually draw the eye with their ever-changing scenery.
The author particularly notes the landscapes around Nantai area. Though famous peaks like Incense Burner Peak, Lion Peak and Red Emperor Peak dominate the right side, the winding streams and valleys to the left possess their own distinctive charm. He recalls Nantai's past devastation by fire with deep emotion, yet reflects how each traveler perceives the scenery differently. Resting at Tusita Nunnery, he observes giant bamboo shedding their skins like sprouting shoots, while noisy springs to the right lead a monk to guide him beneath the pavilion to better hear the water's music. On clear days, leaning against the railings to gaze at distant Heavenly Pillar Peak reveals such serene mountain hues that the journey feels thoroughly worthwhile.
Descending, the author passes Purple Emptiness Pavilion where he sees the legendary "Flying Immortal Stone" associated with Lady Wei (an important figure in Shangqing Daoism). Finding no Daoist priest present, he departs to meet friend Zhouzi for their planned excursion to Fangguang Temple the next day. The following morning's ten-mile walk along level paths presents entirely new river-mountain vistas, with yesterday's peaks now vanished from view. Passing Xumi Temple without stopping, the journey continues through diverse natural wonders: stones by sandy banks, springs gushing from rock crevices, roaring torrents in deep gullies, flowering plants among trees, and cascading waterfalls. Bridges span the swiftest currents, their approaches shaded by dense foliage alive with birdsong. The water's sound comes and goes like hidden music, while pine groves create shifting patterns of shadow and light - dense stands rendering the slopes mysteriously dark, while sparse clusters allow bright, ever-changing illumination. With exquisite detail, the passage captures Mount Heng's endlessly transforming natural landscapes and sacred remnants.
This passage depicts the scenery and travel experience of Mount Heng in Nanyue. Two mountain peaks mirror each other, their rocky depths as serene as a meditation hall. Following the stream for over thirty li, the interplay of water sounds and light creates an exquisite painting. When walking slowly midway up the mountain, the overlapping layers of leaves in one's line of sight evoke a solemn reverence. The two companions (Tanzi and Zhouzi) gaze at each other for a long time, speechless.
The sun sets early in the mountains, leaving the cliffs no time to reflect the twilight. Resting on the ridge, one sees the mountain shapes like lotuses submerged in dusk. The surroundings of Fangguang Temple are lush with trees, and the sound of springs startles birds into flight. A monk leads the way to the corridor of the meditation quarters. Crossing a bridge, the spring's murmur rises again from beneath, and at night, the sound of water at the lodging echoes what was heard along the journey.
At dawn, setting out west of the temple, one passes through Xiuna Pool (where the Liang Dynasty Venerable Huihai was said to have washed his robes), flanked by woods. The pool's reclining stones are encircled by larger rocks, the rushing water reverberating through the forest. The stone surfaces lie just inches above the ground, the shimmering water like a curtain. Further ahead is the Venerable’s Robe-Mending Stone, where later generations built a pavilion inscribed with the character "Xiao" (Whistle). The author renames it "Lianxiang Pavilion" (Pavilion of Lingering Echoes), out of fondness for the sound of water striking stone from the Xiuna Pool below.
To the west, a towering mountain path leads to Tiantai Temple, but the author chooses to linger by the forest springs, sitting quietly and strolling back and forth three times from west to east. Even the accompanying servants are immersed in this tranquility. A timely rain enhances the mountain scenery: tiger and deer tracks interweave, apes cry, butterflies flutter—as if sensing spring’s imminent end. The next day, when departing under clear skies, one still turns back frequently to gaze at the sacred mountain.
A postscript notes that after returning from the journey, the entire body and mind remain steeped in the experience: the body seems merged with clouds, the ears still echo with spring sounds, the eyes retain the hues of the forest, the palms remember the touch of rubbing inscriptions, the feet recall the mountain paths, the nose seems to still catch the fragrance of the empty peaks, and the thoughts continue to wander the high ridges and deep valleys. The author writes to his friend Zhu Xi (styled Jingfu), saying that descending the mountain feels like being exiled, leaving one wistful. Fellow traveler Bokong shares the sentiment—perhaps all who leave Nanyue feel such lingering attachment.
This passage from Records of Famous Mountains Under Heaven documents the author's observations and reflections during his visit to Mount Heng, the Southern Sacred Peak (Nanyue). The account unfolds in several sections:
Regarding the inscribed steles and poetic tributes at Nanyue, the author expresses dissatisfaction with most historical literary works. He particularly notes how Emperor Huizong of Song's gate plaque shows mediocre calligraphy, and though Li Beihai (Tang dynasty calligrapher Li Yong) produced fine stele inscriptions at Yuelu, they bear too obvious an imitation of Wang Xizhi's Preface to the Sacred Teachings. Most detestable are the two forged "Stele of Yu the Great" bearing archaic tadpole script. Only Emperor Yuan of Liang's Stele of Jiuzhen Temple contains transcendent descriptions like "flutes and drums soaring through the skies, mists and rosy clouds interweaving." The grandest writing comes from Emperor Taizu of Ming's sacrificial prayer, which states: "For countless eons have the divine spirits guarded the southern realm—how dare mortals presumptuously bestow titles?" This embodies true reverence for the sacred.
Descending the mountain with his friend Kong Bo, the author lodges at Shangfeng Temple. Watching monks hastily close the gates against the rolling clouds and mist, he pities the "struggling passage" of the fog and advises the monks against such exclusion. Recalling how he once yearned for these cloud seas while gazing upward from the mountain's base, he now shares dwelling with the clouds yet cannot bear seeing them barred. Thus he carves a commemorative poem in the temple.
His depiction of Fangguang Temple's wonders: mountain paths undulate like tidal surges, bamboo groves (blue bamboo shoots) resemble sailing boats—all enveloped beneath emerald skies and verdant shade. Though traversing over twenty li, the journey feels effortless as a single step. This marvel extends beyond the temple grounds, permeating the entire pilgrimage. Originally intending to compose a separate Record of Fangguang, the author instead spontaneously combines travel notes with poetry, carving the integrated work in the temple. His line "Leaning on pines, I understand the master's robe-washing mind" shows four-character variance from the original stone inscription.
(Note: "Shangfeng Temple" and "Fangguang Temple" are renowned temples at Nanyue. "Xuan Yue" is an alternate name for the Southern Peak. "Li Beihai" refers to Tang calligrapher Li Yong. "Sacred Teachings" indicates Wang Xizhi's Preface to the Sacred Teachings. "Yu Stele" allegedly commemorates Yu the Great's flood control achievements.)
After seven days' journey from Han River, we reached Boundary Mountain where the peaks began to cluster densely. It was the Qingming Festival season, with both men and women wearing willow twigs in their hair, creating a mournful atmosphere that inevitably evoked images of graves. Upon arriving at Ying'en Temple, the sedan bearers suddenly set down the palanquin, kowtowed toward an eastern well, then lifted it again to continue—a solemn scene that struck awe in our hearts.
Passing the Bathing Hall, we found ancient cypresses lining both sides of the road, their shadows so deep they resembled market streets. Sitting beneath these trees with Prince Wang, I remarked: "Surely these ancient trees harbor divine spirits? Especially now that they number in the tens of thousands." After visiting Yuzhen Palace, we emerged to traverse the cypress grove's end. Gazing upward at branches and downward at roots, we left none unobserved. Beyond the grove stood the Immortal Pass, its narrow defile so precipitous that all other trees appeared withered and bare, with only slender bamboos dotting the space between twin peaks.
Advancing over undulating slopes, I pointed toward the eastern path near Yuanhe Temple and asked our accompanying monk: "Where do those endless processions of travelers lead?" He replied: "That's the Eighteen-Turn Path—we'll take it on our return." Crossing fertile fields, we glimpsed Yuxu Bridge. Though the palace lay just beyond, we diverted along a tree-lined trail to the Daoist quarters, crossed a drainage ditch on wooden planks, and circled back to the palace. Though magnificently ornate, its exact architectural standards eluded description—nor did such grandeur particularly move this mountain-dwelling heart. Behind Huixian Tower, sheer cliffs enclosed us in emerald vistas. Opening a rear window, we watched woodcutters carrying firewood past. Departing, we saw dozens of cypress branches interlacing above the gate.
Returning to the bridge's edge, we lingered at the murmur of flowing water. Back at the Daoist quarters, I told the monk: "When visiting other mountains, one finds solitude—even slight detours from the main path feel illusory. But this mountain has steps, iron chains and ropes for all pilgrims, like a grand avenue to heaven's gate. The world comes here as if visiting family—footsteps following footsteps, gazes meeting gazes. Master, help me see with new eyes, that even the ordinary may stir my soul." He answered: "Beyond lies Golden Sand Plain. Tomorrow we'll take the woodcutter's path behind Immortal-Watching Tower."
Gradually human traces faded as oak leaves flourished in gentle valleys. Willow Gully's stream emerged fresh from the woods, its winding course mirrored by bending oaks. Suddenly descending through countless trees into a vale, we found ourselves surrounded by undulating green, with boulders for seating where the stream's song reached us. Nearing Golden Sand Plain, deep woods to our left revealed a hermit's thatched hut. Peering in, we startled two pheasants that flew from the gully straight into the temple. Inside, adepts were boiling acorn flour—we followed the qing chime's call to share their vegetarian meal.
This passage depicts the author's experiences and impressions while traveling deep into the mountains with Prince Tong. They first rested by a spring when a monk accompanying them called out from the left side of the mountain, saying he had found a secluded pavilion perfect for those seeking refuge from worldly distractions. Looking back at the mountain slopes, the scenery was breathtaking—as they ventured deeper into the valley, the arrangement of trees, whether sparse or dense, high or low, appeared so perfectly balanced that it seemed beyond human design.
Passing by Xima Peak, they suddenly encountered a series of bizarre rock formations, where strange stones harmonized with trees, wild grasses, and mountain streams, forming an exquisite composition. Retracing their steps to admire the view more carefully, they discovered that at the end of the cliffs stood the Renwei Temple, where dozens of crimson leaves floated in a small pond before the bridge, resembling red fish swimming in the air. Continuing onward for another ten miles, they witnessed peach and plum blossoms alongside azaleas in full bloom, evoking spring. Beneath the dense shade of trees, travelers rested as if in summer, while the chirping of insects echoed like autumn crickets. The ground was strewn with red leaves as if in late autumn, yet the ancient locust trees with their gnarled, iron-like branches remained bare, as though still in winter—along this secluded mountain path, the scenery of all four seasons coexisted simultaneously.
Along the way, they also spotted monkeys frolicking among the trees, completely indifferent to the shouts of their attendants. Upon entering Yinxian Rock, they were greeted by a peculiar cypress tree resembling a weeping willow, its tender green shoots seeming to droop downward. Gazing upward from the Laomao Shrine, the peaks of Tianzhu and Nanyan shone brilliantly amid the mountain haze, the ridges overlapping like waves. Nearby, the verdant foliage of pines and cypresses created a layered contrast of mountain hues. The dense canopy of countless ravines nearly obscured the mountain path, leaving them awestruck and breathless—so they paused to rest at Wulong Palace.
Wulong Palace stood against a sheer cliff, though its so-called "Five Wells and Two Ponds" were rather unremarkable, prompting them to leave after a brief stay. Along the way, they heard of other scenic spots like Lingxu Rock, Xiyi’s Chanting Platform, and the Natural Hermitage, but these were all passed by in haste. At night, the cries of monkeys echoed continuously, and at dawn, they ascended stone steps through bamboo groves, peering down into deep valleys shrouded in mist—Wulong Palace seemed to hang suspended at the edge of the sky. As they descended, the sound of rushing streams intertwined with the rustling of grass. After another four or five miles, the waters surged from north to south before turning eastward.
The passage depicts a scenic mountain retreat called Qingyang Ravine. It begins with a bridge spanning the ravine, where towering cliffs encircle the area like city walls, forming a shape resembling a giant urn. The verdant trees create an unbroken tapestry from top to bottom, while the sound of rushing water, compressed between the rocks, makes one hesitant to speak loudly. Peach blossoms drift down from great heights, their petals striking the water with audible splashes—from this point onward, the symphony of the ravine becomes particularly exhilarating.
Following the ravine's bend, one passes Immortal Turtle Rock (shaped like a moss-covered turtle), where spring water sprays from the crevices onto visitors. The rock formations here are strikingly peculiar: some jut outward as if grasping at travelers' sleeves, others tilt precariously as though about to collapse, their overhangs supported by trees, their fractures naturally bridged by roots. The pines, cypresses, and firs are especially remarkable—those growing on the mountains expose their roots, stretching skyward for thousands of xun (an ancient unit of length) and requiring multiple people to encircle their trunks before reaching maturity; those in the deep valleys strain upward until they meet the mountain's base, their crowns merging with the highland trees into a continuous canopy.
The author marvels at how the countless ravines seem arranged by some profound order, with towering trees rising abruptly from the earth, their staggered heights as if shaped by human imagination. At first, the sight is awe-inspiring, but over time, it brings tranquility—much like a river traveler who grows weary of gazing at the moon. Yet whenever the scenery reaches a moment of particular refinement, it stirs deep contemplation.
Passing Immortal Turtle Rock and Hundred Flowers Spring, one heads east to Dripping Water Rock, where droplets fall as precisely as an ancient water clock. By now, the halls of Nanyan Palace come into view. Turning left, one sees Five Dragon Peak, standing like a farewell figure lingering on the shore as seen from a departing boat. Meanwhile, the mountains previously encountered all seem to bow before the depths of the valley, the pines and cypresses lying quietly at the base, no different from water plants.
Crossing Tianyi Bridge, mountain flowers bloom freely, while Daoist dwellings cling to the steep slopes along plank pathways. Upon reaching Little Heavenly Gate, a suspended rock looms as if about to crush the viewer—yet the so-called "Giant’s Footprint" appears no different from ordinary rock patterns. The author considers entering the temple to examine the strange formations in detail, but days of sightseeing have exhausted the spirit—focusing strains the eyes, dispersing attention drains the mind, and discerning distinctions only adds to the fatigue. Fearing something might be missed, the author decides to lodge in the Daoist quarters and return at dawn the next day to appreciate the scene with a quiet heart.
We set out before noon that day. The Daoist priest said we couldn't linger long, so he consulted with the accompanying Buddhist monk about making good use of the remaining daylight. The monk suggested that since we were heading to Prince's Cliff (Taizi Yan), we might as well visit Tiger's Ear Cliff (Hu'er Yan) along the way. Thus we decided to first visit the Purple Empyrean Palace (Zixiao Gong).
The palace stood against the Banner Peak (Zhanqi Feng), whose sheer cliffs resembled curling clouds slicing through iron, the dizzying mountain contours rising and falling dramatically. Inside the palace, we inquired about the locations of Yu's Footprint Pond and the Blessed Land (Fudi), only to realize we'd already passed them. We had to retrace our steps to circle the pond before ascending to the Blessed Land. Looking down from the jagged summit, the mountain peaks under direct sunlight appeared bright yet colorless. The seemingly endless stone steps from the palace to Prince's Cliff left us utterly exhausted by the time we reached the top. The summit formed its own isolated world, obscuring the lower peaks from view. With the mist dissipated, the atmosphere felt more warm than desolate.
Continuing upward from Prince's Cliff, we could overlook the Purple Empyrean Palace below. Pointing to distant red walls along the mountain ridges, we asked the monk and learned it was the Majestic Temple (Weilie Guan). Descending via the back mountain, we headed toward Tiger's Ear Cliff. This path lacked both trees and water sources—we paused to rest only when spotting a lone pine tree. Coincidentally, a monk from Tiger's Ear Cliff arrived beneath the same pine, and we continued together. Nearing our destination, we saw several emerald bamboo stalks and a clear pool where we rested with Wang Zijian.
Entering Tiger's Ear Cliff, we found the cavern naturally hollowed into a stone chamber, its ancient bed still intact. The monk led us to the cliff's summit where most of the old monk's cultivated gardens and pavilions had vanished—only the lotus pond remained, its water mingling with mud. A servant skilled in harvesting lotus roots waded barefoot into the pond, his feet shuttling like weaving shuttles along the root strands as he dug them out by hand, much to the mountain monks' amusement.
For our return journey, we avoided the original path and instead threaded through crevices behind Banner Peak. This revealed the mountain's startling steepness and prominence—completely different from the connected ridges we'd seen earlier. Continuing onward, we returned to the fir forests near the Five Dragons Palace (Wulong Gong), which now felt more welcoming, perhaps because Tiger's Ear Cliff's surroundings lacked such woods.
At dawn the next day, we visited the rock formations behind the temple—massive boulders towering over a hundred zhang high, their forms mysteriously steep with distinct angles, vibrant colors, dynamic postures, combining raw power with delicate craftsmanship. Some heights seemed poised to leap into deep ravines, while lower sections plunged into unfathomable depths, as if carved by supernatural hands. Studying the rocks' undulating contours and summit patterns, I found myself unconsciously reaching the pavilion. Leaning against the railing, distant Buddhist chants from visitors echoed intermittently. That day, mountain winds made the trees roar like waterfalls—a sound I often enjoyed as alternative cave scenery. Later, I carefully reflected on all we'd encountered along the way.
The passage vividly recounts the author's pilgrimage through the sacred peaks of Mount Wudang. The mountain path winds serpentinely, with pavilions and towers seemingly touching the heavens. After navigating dozens of westward bends, one reaches the Hall of Yuanjun (dedicated to the Daoist goddess Queen Mother of the West), followed by the Cliff of Self-Sacrifice, where ancient trees tower along the path. Ascending to the Platform of Ascension (legendary site where adepts achieved feathered transcendence), one finds this lofty stone terrace neighbored by a peculiar tree—its withered-appearing foliage paradoxically pulses with vitality. Behind the platform grows an ancient pine on the rocky face, its dragon-coiled branches dancing resiliently in the wind.
Further along lies the Dew Terrace, beneath which caves echo unanswered. Passing Grain-Drying Ridge and Black Tiger Rock, the traveler reaches a fork where locals explain three ascent routes: the conventional stairway through the Three Celestial Gates (important Daoist architectural complex), the official path via Joyful Slope, or the woodcutter's trail skirting the Bronze Hall. Choosing the latter, the author encounters Daoist monks carrying water to repair the path through trifoliate orange groves. Upon reaching the high stone cliffs, a waiting Buddhist monk greets them with laughter, remarking how the stairway would have been quicker.
At the True Warrior Hall (main shrine dedicated to the Perfected Warrior Emperor) atop Heavenly Pillar Peak, the author marvels at exquisite gold-gilding craftsmanship. Surveying the panorama, nearby peaks like Five Elders and Incense Burner stand clearly, while the distant Five Dragons Palace vanishes in rolling mists—revealing the vastness between heaven and earth. The Bronze Hall, a relic from the Yuan Dynasty's Dade era (1297-1307), frames Heavenly Pillar Peak's jagged rocks and sparse vegetation. The author reflects how these primal vistas mirror the mountain's primordial birth and humanity's first awe-filled ascents, perfectly embodying Wudang's mystical harmony of "Heaven and humanity united as one" (tianren heyi). The narrative masterfully conveys Mount Wudang's numinous quality as a living embodiment of Daoist cosmology.
The passage recounts the author's journey to a famous mountain with waterfalls in the company of Prince and others, along with his reflections.
They arrived at a renowned mountain abundant with cascading waters, where the sound of flowing streams echoed through the treetops and crevices, making it difficult to quiet the mind for contemplation. A traveling monk in their group mentioned that the streams below the mountain all converged, leading directly to Qiongtai (a sacred Daoist site), yet the monk lamented having missed the Three Heavenly Gates (a key scenic spot). The author, however, believed that bypassing the Three Heavenly Gates was for the better—not to avoid the perilous terrain, but to escape the clamor.
Later, they ascended Qiongtai Peak, where they experienced the vast, open expanse between heaven and earth. Resting at a Daoist temple, they observed ancient pines and soaring birds outside the gate, and from the upper floor, they glimpsed two peaks resembling towering candles. As dusk fell and mist rose, they settled in a quiet mountain retreat due to exhaustion. There, they encountered a Daoist priest of remarkable presence, who warned them that tigers often passed by at certain hours.
The next day, they continued their journey, passing the lower Qiongtai and seeing the candle-like peaks now far in the distance. Entering a mountain ravine, they meticulously described the interplay of water and stone: submerged rocks forming the riverbed, upright stones standing like walls, large boulders churning the water into froth, gentle currents where stones were sparse, and turbulent rapids where they were numerous. They also noted how naturally shaped rocks formed bridges and how people navigated between water and stone. Finally, the author reflected that if one became entirely absorbed by the sound of rushing water, they might overlook the mountain scenery and risk stumbling.
This passage describes Ming Dynasty literatus Wang Shizhen's travels through Wudang Mountain. The author first recounts his extraordinary experiences navigating the rocky terrain: sometimes sitting between boulders to gaze into the distance, other times leaping across multiple stones to reach a massive rock in the water. The mountain cliffs alternately converge and diverge—expanding into openness before suddenly constricting, where sheer precipices abruptly level out, their layered greenery perfectly mirrored in the pools below.
When traversing the twenty-li mountain stream, he finds himself enveloped in shadowy stillness, yet surrounded by an inexplicable wild fragrance. Occasional travelers appear through crevices on the left; a monk in their company explains these are pilgrims coming from the Temple of Awesome Majesty. After crossing a ridge that seems to mark the end of gorges, they unexpectedly enter yet another ravine. The rushing stream eventually flows beneath the Jade Void Cliff, merging with tributaries below.
The author particularly marvels at the Jade Void Cliff's structure: viewed from the stream, the rock formations appear majestic, while standing atop the cliff offers panoramic views of the winding gorge below. The water's sound seems to drift from the sky at times, then suddenly rustle through treetops. Here, natural caves and man-made cliff pathways complement each other perfectly—without this landscape, Wudang Mountain would feel incomplete.
The latter section shifts to his journey on Taihe Mountain. Departing from Junzhou City, he notes how over half the urban structures belong to the Perfect Warrior Palace (a Daoist temple dedicated to the Dark Warrior deity). Legend holds that this deity was originally the crown prince of the Pure Joy Kingdom who attained immortality through cultivation here. Since Emperor Chengzu's reign, imperial veneration of the Dark Warrior has made Wudang a thriving pilgrimage site. On the morning of the fifteenth day of the third lunar month, after passing Pure Joy Palace and resting at Purple Cloud Pavilion, the author exits the southern gate into vibrant farmland. A sudden cool breeze cuts through the warm wind, refreshing his spirit—unaware this heralds approaching rain. Following a meal at Grace Reception Palace, the group presses onward into the mountains.
(Note: The Perfect Warrior refers to the Dark Warrior Emperor, a supreme Daoist deity; Pure Joy Kingdom belongs to Daoist mythology; the "Cultured Emperor" denotes the Yongle Emperor Zhu Di)
This passage documents the historical evolution and scenic features of Mount Wudang. Emperor Shizong of the Ming dynasty honored this mountain as the "Mysterious Peak" (Xuan Yue), elevating its status above the Five Sacred Mountains. Originally named Mount Taihe, Mount Canshang, or the Mountain of Immortal Abodes, it was called Mount Xieluo during the Jin dynasty after the recluse Xie Yun who dwelled there, before Emperor Wen bestowed upon it the title "Supreme Peak" (Tai Yue).
The name "Wudang" originates from the legend that only the Perfect Warrior Emperor (Zhenwu Dadi, an important Daoist deity) was worthy of this mountain. Daoist structures like the Yuanhe Temple and Yuzhen Palace were built upon its slopes. Yuzhen Palace derives its name from the Daoist master Zhang Sanfeng, who practiced cultivation there during Emperor Taizu's reign. When Emperor Chengzu's repeated attempts to locate him proved futile, he commissioned a statue in veneration and posthumously honored Zhang with the title "Perfected Being" (Zhenren).
Five li east of Yuzhen Palace stands the Jade Void Palace (Yuxu Gong), named in reference to Zhenwu Dadi's Daoist honorific title "Jade Void Preceptor Minister." Its grandeur surpasses even the Pure Joy Palace (Jingle Gong). Further along, one encounters the Dragon Spring waters coursing through fantastical rock formations, with ancient pines clinging to the precipitous cliffs on either bank—a vista more breathtaking than famed mountains like Dongting or Ziqing.
The ascent becomes particularly arduous in the rain, with palanquin bearers gasping for breath beyond speech. Yet the shifting white clouds crowning the peaks and the emerald mountains glistening with rain make one forget their drenched garments. Only when the sun dips westward do travelers reach the Purple Empyrean Palace (Zixiao Gong), where the "Traces of Yu" pond and pavilions grace its forecourt. This account vividly captures both Mount Wudang's religious significance and natural wonders during the Ming dynasty.
To the right lay a rainwater pool collecting drips from the palace eaves, its surface rippling audibly. Already substantial, the pool swelled abruptly with the downpour until its churning waters seemed to harbor a coiling dragon about to ascend. Wild ducks floated upon its jade-green clarity—a scene of rustic charm.
Upon entering the gate, the rain intensified, soaking my robes until they clung to my undergarments. When I turned to thank the attending officials, chattering teeth rendered my courtesies incoherent. Hastening to the Daoist quarters, I lit a fire to dry my clothes. There I discovered a copy of the Huangting Jing (Yellow Court Scripture), one of Daoism's core classics, on the desk. Reading between sips of warmed wine, I found the drumming rain unbearable—doubly so with tomorrow's mountain trek looming. Heavy eyelids forced me to retire early.
Departing Zixiao Palace (a renowned Daoist temple on Wudang Mountain) toward the summit of Taihe Peak, I listened all night to the rain's torrential cadence, as though dreaming myself through the Three Gorges. By the fifth watch, silence prevailed. At dawn in the front hall, I beheld a sheer iron-blue cliff soaring a thousand ren (an ancient measure ~8 feet) behind the altar—a vertical banner unfurled: Zhanqi Peak (Banner Display Peak). Resting by Yuji Pool, I marveled at thundering springs and jade-green cascades. Above, rain curtains hung suspended mid-slope as if propped by invisible hands—a sight both mesmerizing and unnerving.
Resolving to proceed, I urged the sedan bearers onward. To the pool's right lay one of Daoism's Seventy-Two Blessed Lands, though time forbade visiting its upper temples. As skies cleared, the path narrowed between cloud-piercing cliffs. Peaks like Sangong (Three Dukes) and Wulao (Five Elders) emerged in succession, their rain-washed verdure inspiring recitation of Tang poets' lines on "sheer cliffs scraping heavens"—never had verse felt so apt.
Abruptly, the rock walls parted to reveal Nanyan Palace (another famed Wudang temple) floating in mist-filtered sunlight. Its inscribed plaque confirmed our arrival, but we pressed westward over a ridge. Below sprawled a valley vast as ancient Mengzhu Marsh, dense with archaic pines and towering firs. Beyond Langmei Shrine, the terrain grew steeper, the gorges more precipitous—every upward glance or downward gaze revealed fresh wonders.
Daoist priests in roadside temples played sheng mouth organs and xiao flutes, their melodies fraying in and out of clouds. When notes struck rock faces, echoes reverberated through hollows like sound trapped in ceramic jars. After half a she (an ancient distance unit), we reached a ravine. "The old trail through this narrows requires three days' hike to Santianmen (Three Heavenly Gates)," the bearers advised. "The new path along the rim permits sedan chairs with less hardship." I chose the latter.
Mud made the post-rain ascent treacherous—boulders blocked the way, ancient trees sprawled diagonally. To our right, peaks stabbed the clouds; to our left, the ravine thundered. Every hundred paces demanded fresh bearers as we inched forward through the ordeal.
The passage describes the perilous ascent of Wudang Mountain's Tianzhu Peak (also known as Taihe Mountain) and the breathtaking views from its summit. The author first depicts the dangers of the climb: the steep path winds like a serpentine bird's trail, with thousands of stone steps where the muddy, slippery sections often cause the sedan bearers to lose footing. Several times, the entire party nearly dangled over bottomless chasms, making the author regret not choosing the steadier option of walking.
Upon reaching the western ridge of Taihe Mountain, the author observes Daoist priests' dwellings clinging to the cliffs like layered beehives, some stacked as high as seven stories. Though howling winds make the structures appear precarious, they remain steadfast. After changing into ceremonial robes to pay respects to the Perfect Warrior Emperor (Zhenwu Dadi), the ascent continues. Though Tianzhu Peak seems only a hundred zhang high, the actual trek spans several li. Gripping a hanging rope with one hand and bracing against a companion's shoulder with the other, the author finds even a tenth of the journey exhausting, requiring frequent rest stops.
At the summit stands the Golden Hall, the main shrine dedicated to Zhenwu, entirely cast in gilded bronze. Inside are statues of the deity and four generals, with all ritual vessels adorned in gold. From this vantage, all seventy-two peaks unfold before the eyes—Xianglu Peak being the tallest, yet appearing as insignificant as an object beside a bed when compared to Tianzhu. Consulting ancient texts, the author speculates that later generations might have renamed Xianglu Peak as Tianzhu, while labeling a neighboring minor peak as Xianglu.
The surrounding peaks encircle the summit like stars around a sovereign. Under shifting skies of sun and mist, the mountains surge like silver waves, dazzling the senses. The ancient saying "mountains are lighter than the heavens" (shan qing xiao) proves apt—all peaks seem diminished except for the solitary Waichao Peak in the southeast, standing proudly along the Fangling official road as if refusing to bow to Tianzhu's supremacy. The author concludes by marveling at the countless unnamed ridges, gorges, cliffs, and springs, many of which bear labels borrowed by Daoists from other geographical records.
This passage records the author's travel experiences at Mount Wudang (known anciently as Mount Taihe) and can be divided into two sections:
The first part describes encountering a hermit named Fan Liaoji at Nanyan Palace. For over twenty years, this recluse had lived in a stone cave, wearing nothing but a tattered monastic robe through all seasons, subsisting on the simplest diet without even salt or dairy products. Though gaunt in appearance, he radiated vitality with piercingly bright eyes. In conversation, he demonstrated knowledge of both Daoist principles—such as the idea that "attaining the Dao (the Way) enables transcendence beyond the physical body"—and Confucian teachings. The author shared a meal of plain rice soaked in water with him before bidding farewell.
The second section documents the journey from Mount Taihe to Nanyan. Though originally planning to rise at cockcrow to witness sunrise, the author's attendants overslept. At daybreak, they descended the mountain in bamboo sedan chairs (lanyu), passing perilous spots like Tianzhu Peak and the Three Heavenly Gates. The steep trails forced them to proceed on foot at times, reviving their strength with wine and meat provided by Daoist priests. Looking back at the magnificent scenery of Qixing Peak and Sangong Peak, they paused every few steps to admire the view. At Zhaixing Bridge's Wenchang Shrine, they read the ornate stele inscription by Wang Daokun (courtesy name Boyu). Finally arriving at Nanyan Palace to await friends, after a meal they heard of nearby Fozhi Rock (also called No-Duality Rock) and set out by sedan chair to explore it, observing flame-like patterns on the cliffs and trees resembling dragon claws.
The text mentions "Zhenwu," referring to the Daoist deity the Perfected Warrior (Zhenwu Dadi), for whom Mount Wudang serves as sacred ground. The "bamboo sedan chairs" (lanyu) were commonly used mountain transport. Through vivid descriptions, the author captures both Wudang's spectacular landscapes and the austere lifestyle of its spiritual practitioners.
The text recounts a Daoist practitioner's journey to Mount Dengjun, traditionally believed to be where the Thunder Master Dengjun achieved immortality. The mountain harbors a sacred pool with sweet-tasting water, revered as a holy site among Daoist cultivators.
Following a winding mountain path for over ten li, the traveler arrived at a cave embedded in the cliffs. Inside were three stone chambers—the largest enshrined a statue of the Great Being (大士), with guest seats to the left and a bed to the right. There, he encountered an elderly practitioner with silver hair cascading over his forehead and a serene, full face. Dressed in simple robes, the old man mysteriously whispered that the visitor had a karmic connection to this place and imparted a cultivation method called "clenching the fists and sealing the gums" to guide Jing (essence) and Qi (vital energy) into the Dantian (energy center in the lower abdomen).
The elder then led the way to a mountaintop pool—small yet perpetually unfailing, its surface dotted with lotus leaves. Nearby lay a smaller pond surrounded by blooming flowers. In a humble thatched hut, the old cultivator sat cross-legged on a wooden platform in deep meditation. The area was encircled by sheer cliffs, its scenery especially wondrous in spring.
On the descent, they passed a murmuring stream flowing over boulders, forming tiny pools. Sanskrit inscriptions in cinnabar adorned the rocks, their meanings explained by the elder. He detailed the layout of the structures, all built by his own hands, and discoursed on the philosophy of "emptiness" and "form."
Before parting, the elder prepared a modest vegetarian feast for the visitor and his attendants—simple yet delicious. Reluctant to bid farewell, he repeatedly urged them not to forget their gathering here. Returning to Southern Cliff as the sun still hung in the sky, the traveler paid respects at the Hall of Zhenwu (a Daoist deity), then visited the Hall of Yuanjun, the South Fragrance Pavilion, Solitary Sun Cliff, and Purple Empyrean Cliff—sacred Daoist sites—gazing upon the majestic mountain vistas.
This passage vividly depicts the extraordinary landscapes of Wudang Mountain (also known as Taihe Mountain) and the author's travel experiences. The journey begins at Nanyan Palace, passes through Wulong Palace, and finally arrives at Yuxu Palace, with each scenic view along the way meticulously recorded.
The mountain path winds steeply like a coiling dragon, while the Golden Hall (a Daoist structure) atop Tianzhu Peak glitters brilliantly. Legend has it that a Daoist priest once ascended to immortality here by worshiping the Big Dipper. The sheer majesty of Sheshen Cliff defies description, and practitioners recount the deeds of the Dark Heavenly Emperor (Zhenwu the Great) as if they had witnessed them firsthand. The author engages in a discussion with a Buddhist monk about the realm of "emptiness," which ends with shared laughter and several cups of wine.
Starting from Dishui Rock, the scenery grows increasingly peculiar: the cliff resembles inverted lungs dripping water into a pool, the spring murmurs like music, and though the Bamboo Bridge has an inelegant name, the view is breathtaking. The valley deepens further, with towering ancient trees—some so thick they require several people to encircle—their exposed roots twisting like giant serpents. When the mountain wind blows, the roots rustle as if ready to snap at one’s toes.
The mountaintop bristles with jagged rocks, some precariously suspended like they might plummet at any moment, while the stones in the ravine take the shapes of elephants, lions, and dragons, their eerie forms unsettling in the dim light. The Immortal Turtle Rock stretches for hundreds of feet, and the stones near Qingyang Bridge grow even more bizarre, with the sound of flowing water swelling like a grand symphony. Beneath the sheer Fang Cliff, a stream cuts through the mountain’s base.
After drinking and admiring the view here, the author changes course to a mountain path, traversing a valley thick with shrubs. While climbing a ridge of mixed earth and stone, a dense grove of tamarisk, fir, and cypress suddenly appears. Just when Wulong Palace seems within reach, the path twists upward endlessly, leaving the panting porters to rest multiple times before finally arriving. Inside the palace gates, a winding red-walled corridor coils like a sheep’s intestine.
The passage depicts the scenic Wulong Palace (Five Dragons Palace) on a renowned Daoist mountain. The slopes are dotted with hermitages where Daoist practitioners cultivate, their dense foliage filtering sunlight to create an atmosphere of secluded mystery. The palace complex follows the mountain contours, its towering structures seemingly piercing the clouds, with peaks like Purple Canopy Summit and Golden Lock Summit appearing just beyond the railings.
To the courtyard's right lie two pools where spring water flows from dragon-shaped stone spouts, flanked by five wells collectively called the "Five Dragons' Wells." On the western side, two interconnected pools known as the "Sun-Moon Pools" are said to change color with the passing hours. After meals, the Daoists reverently display a jade statue of Zhenwu the Perfected Warrior (Zhenwu Dadi) for veneration, followed by two kasaya robes bestowed by Emperor Chengzu of Ming upon the Daoist Li Suxi.
The writer notes that Lingxu Cliff and Ziran Hermitage offer even more spectacular views, though circumstances prevented their visit. Descending, they pass Renwei Temple, where the deep springs beneath Pufu Bridge contrast with the expansive vistas from its span. Several li further stands the Wulong Traveling Palace, where the mountain path gradually widens to reveal emerald fields.
Concluding at Wangxian Tower (Tower of Immortal Gazing), the writer shares wine with companions before braving rain to lodge at Ying'en Palace (Palace of Imperial Grace). Reflecting that barely three-tenths of the mountain's wonders were seen, the experience already sufficed as life's most magnificent journey. The text observes how this once-obscure peak, through its association with Zhenwu's legends, has surpassed the Five Sacred Mountains in status—its temple complexes so vast that even smaller structures rival the famed Qinian Palace of Han Dynasty.
This passage depicts the magnificent scenery of Wudang Mountain (Mount Taihe) and the unique atmosphere of this sacred Daoist site. Wang Daokun, writing from personal experience, captures the transcendent aura of this renowned Daoist mountain.
Thousands who never till the land yet receive food and clothing come here, with devotees from all directions vying to pay homage, fearing to miss their spiritual opportunity. Some weep and prostrate themselves, others dance with joy. From afar, the mountain inspires awe, yet up close it appears ordinary. Why is this? Sima Qian once said, "Who has truly seen the Kunlun Mountains?" Now even Wudang Mountain, standing right before us, cannot be fully comprehended—how then can we claim the Kunlun paradise doesn't exist?
In the winter of the Wuwu year, I came to Wudang as a local official to conduct rituals. For three consecutive days I stayed in the mountains, ascending the summit at dawn each morning to watch the sunrise. Below stretched endless clouds like the legendary Zhulong dragon plunging into the abyss. As day broke, the Heavenly Gate opened, revealing snow-capped peaks like piled jade, the scenery growing ever more wondrous. Inspired, I visited Miaohua Rock, conversing with grain-abstaining hermits before returning alone to my meditation chamber.
Descending from South Cliff, I gazed at the snow-white Tianzhu Peak resembling a celestial city carved from white jade. Though I wished to visit Five Dragons Palace, frozen paths prevented me. Passing Purple Empyrean Palace, footprints in snow made me feel like wandering cave paradises with Zhuangzi. At dusk, moonlight transformed Banner Peak into a mica screen. Lodging in Divine Tower, moonlight flooded the room with crystalline brightness—as if dwelling within an ice vessel.
At dawn next day I climbed Prince's Rock, exchanging greetings with cave-dwelling ascetics. Descending, Purple Empyrean bustled with pilgrims like a marketplace, while Jade Void Rock's secluded ravines held no human traces—this solitude being precisely what immortals seek. That evening at Moonview Tower, Purple Empyrean shone with sacred purity.
Later, en route to Fujian, I revisited bearing the ancient bronze "Father Yi" wine vessel. Entering Jade Void Rock during heavy rain, we watched water weave through caves like silk, torrents rising to horses' bellies. Lodging beneath cliffs, we shared millet with Daoists. Next morning at Heavenly Gate, I dismounted to walk in straw sandals. Though my driver said, "No need," I insisted—for piety's sake.
Ascending the mountain by sedan chair required two strong men to carry it, switching bearers every hundred steps like grasping a ram's horns until reaching Mount Taihe (the ancient name of Wudang). During preparations for the sacrificial ceremony, it rained continuously. When we set out from the Daoist temple toward the altar, even with umbrellas our clothes were soaked. Yet upon arrival, the sky suddenly cleared—clouds rolled back like bamboo mats, revealing morning clouds cradling a crimson sun above the Yellow Court Palace. The moment the rites concluded, rain resumed. All present deemed this divine manifestation, though even I couldn't comprehend its meaning.
The next day, I toured the peaks with wine offerings. Reaching the summit again, I poured libations from an ancient Zhou dynasty ritual wine vessel (the "Father Yi Jue") at Xuanyuan Terrace, kneeling to pray: "Having served this sacred mountain for three fortunate years, I now bid farewell with this wine." Prostrating deeply, I made three ceremonial toasts before offering wine to each celestial guardian in turn. An attendant presented a sword, which I drew while praying: "As Japanese pirates repeatedly invade Fujian, may this Ta'e Sword (legendary blade) aid the imperial forces against the rebels."
Descending past Tianjiang Pass (a Wudang checkpoint), I raised my cup to the garrison commander: "Your loyalty to the Emperor matches my sincerity." Drinking it all in one gulp, we later pledged vows by starlight at Zhixing Bridge. When musicians performed the "Song of Heavenly Winds," sudden gusts harmonized as if heaven and earth responded. Deeming this celestial music, I signaled them to stop.
Journeying from Nanyan to Five Dragons Palace, we paused at Qingyang Stream Villa and Scripture Recitation Platform. Arriving at Jade Void Palace on the full moon, I ascended its tower to toast immortals like Lü Dongbin—offering two cups to the wine-loving Patriarch Lü, for only drunken transcendents embody true mastery. At dawn we departed Wudang's boundaries from Canglang.
A decade later when leaving Yunyang Pass, I gazed at Xia Gate's willow trees as the Chamberlain inquired about my return. Arriving early, they prepared a bathhouse with heated water for my purification. The next day we took hidden paths to Luogong Rock through wild brambles and jagged stones—had they been tended, they'd form wondrous scenery. Heavenly Pillar Peak first appeared veiled in mist, then emerged like a lotus rising from water. Clouds transformed—now like feathered robes, now like soaring kites. Staying at Luogong's retreat until June (still wearing layered robes), we later passed Fuzhen Abbey. Though unable to lodge at Jade Void Rock as planned, we ascended to Blessed Land instead. Spotting a sword hanging from pine branches amidst tangled foliage, I drew it to clear the path. Before dawn, the Rain God cleansed the mountain path; by sunrise, attendants cleared the way as I ascended by carriage amid radiant sunshine.
This passage describes the author's travels at Mount Taihe (the ancient name of Wudang Mountain) and his encounters with Daoist practitioners there:
At noon, multicolored auspicious clouds appeared over Mount Taihe. The temple priest reported this to the attendant, who personally witnessed the phenomenon from South Cliff. After the ritual worship of the Dark Emperor of Heaven (a revered Daoist deity), the author rested at the southern veranda. Following a period of quiet sitting, he stood to survey the peaks he had previously visited, marveling at their ever-changing vistas—even after three visits, their wonders remained indescribable. Leaning on his staff near Incense Burner Peak, he invited Daoists to chant the "Pacing the Void" hymns (Daoist ritual music) atop the summit, accompanied by the ancient "Cloud Gate" melody played on a vertical bamboo flute, returning only after fully savoring the experience.
At dawn's departure, steep mountain paths forced them to proceed on foot. Crossing Star-Plucking Bridge, the author pointed to ruins east of the bridge, suggesting the site should house a Three Lords Shrine honoring the Emperor of Culture (a Daoist deity overseeing literary fortunes), aligning with celestial correspondences. After carving commemorative stones beneath Myriad Zhang Peak and passing South Cliff where the attendant described shifting cloud formations, the author learned of several enlightened recluses dwelling in the mountains: Zhou Taiheng resided in the western mountain hollow near Jade Void Palace; Shu Fuchu cultivated himself among willow groves; Shi Jiao once dwelled at Yinxi Cliff. Among them, Yan Xizi had served as an official before attending to the Prince of Jingjiang; the monk Yuanxing (a Buddhist adept), master of Dharma, shared mutual teacher-student relations with Hermit Chai, both revered as "Dharma Eyes" (those possessing supreme spiritual realization).
Shu Fuchu excelled in longevity arts, having comprehended the wondrous principle of non-birth, with unhindered eloquence—originally a disciple of Hermit Chai. Shi Jiao, once a Qin dynasty general, later took refuge under the Western Dharma King. Monk Yuanxing received ordination in the capital, his majestic demeanor inspiring awe among disciples; though usually taciturn, he expounded the Dao with torrential speech when discoursing. The author had previously arranged meetings during official duties, and while waiting at South Cliff, Shi Jiao arrived first. During their conversation, Shi Jiao exclaimed in wonder: "Could you be a bodhisattva manifesting as an official?" praising the author's effortless attainment of enlightenment despite no deliberate cultivation.
At night, they awaited the moonrise in a stone grotto as a qin master played the ancient zither. The next day at Yinxi Cliff, they visited the Buddhist adept's dwelling: bamboo thickets formed natural hedges outside his northeast-facing gate, with a Buddha statue enshrined in the central hall. The monk reverently welcomed guests, seating them at the hall's center before leading them inward. Pressing the visitor's abdomen, he whispered: "Buddha or not? That we reunite after kalpas of rebirth..." then expounded profound Buddhist truths. Knowing his guest loved wandering, he fetched bamboo staffs as guides—first following bamboo-lined paths to a stream. At its confluence stood a dam built upon flat rocks, with boulders jutting from the banks supporting winding railings. Observing closely, one felt the transcendent joy of Zhuangzi's "Hao Bridge fish-watching" allegory.
This passage depicts a serene and elegant mountain dwelling, where nature and human artistry blend harmoniously.
The mountain scenery is so picturesque it could be painted, with particularly lush vegetation growing on the rocks. There stand three simple huts enclosed by firewood fences, surrounding a lotus pond that never dries throughout the seasons. Beside the pond sits a thatched cottage containing a rope-bed (a simple woven seating platform), while colorful Buddhist banners hang outside for a memorial service being conducted.
Beyond this lies a smaller pond forming its own courtyard, lined with rows of cultivated flowers and plants. Passing through the wooden gate, one finds a grass pavilion just large enough for single meditation, with properly arranged sitting stones before it. A visiting guest remarks with amusement: "Your dwelling truly deserves to be called a jingshe (meditation retreat) - are you experiencing the Buddhist state of 'playful samadhi' (unfettered spiritual freedom)?" The host replies: "This is merely a wolf's den, though through daily tending of these plants, it has gradually become a garden."
When the guest later takes his leave, they arrange to meet again at Wulong Palace. En route, a summer shower forces them to change clothes and shoes before reuniting. Resting in the Western Studio, the host refrains from lengthy conversation to spare his visitor fatigue, instead guiding him to see the Sun-Moon Pond. As they pass the scripture chanting platform, pheasants call to each other undisturbed by human presence. That evening they drink and converse under moonlight, continuing their discussions the next day atop the Immortal-Viewing Tower.
The author reflects gratefully on having visited this place three times over ten years. The first visit with high officials felt constrained, the second as an independent traveler brought youthful freedom, but this third journey with kindred spirits proved most joyful. True "journeys gathering authenticity" (the Daoist ideal of travel seeking fundamental truth), he suggests, should alternate between aimless wandering and carefree roaming beyond worldly concerns - though he modestly claims not yet having attained such spiritual heights.
The colophon identifies this as Wang Shixing's record of visiting Liang region in Henan during the summer of Xinsi year, while awaiting official transfer after completing his three-year magistracy in Langling.
This travelogue records the author's observations during a journey through the Central Plains region. Departing from Langling in early June during continuous heavy rains, the outskirts had become flooded lakes, forcing villagers to navigate among willow treetops on rafts—prompting the author to lament how commoners must again live like fish.
Setting off after the rains, the author first paid respects at Zhuge Liang's former residence on Wolonggang (Crouching Dragon Ridge) in Nanyang's western suburbs (modern Nanyang, Henan). Though the ridge wasn't particularly high, while lodging overnight in the thatched cottage, a sudden violent storm shook the trees as if revealing the presence of Zhuge Wuhou's spirit. An ancient well on the ridge bore deep rope marks on its stone rim, said to be from Zhuge Liang's personal use. Further north lay the tomb of Spring and Autumn period statesman Baili Xi, marked by a seven-star stone tablet.
Passing through Yuzhou (modern Fangcheng, Henan), the author observed a portrait of Eastern Han founder Emperor Guangwu and the legendary "Overturned Well" that spontaneously gushed clear water. At Kunyang City (modern Ye County), memories surfaced of the legendary general Ju Wuba driving tigers and leopards into battle during Wang Mang's era. West of Ye County, the author sought out Confucius' historic ferry crossing site and the shrine of recluse Yan Guang, suggesting local officials should also enshrine the two hermits Chang Ju and Jie Ni.
The journey concluded with a visit to Xiangshan Temple in Baofeng County, where a pagoda pierced the clouds—reputed to be the incarnation site of Guanyin Bodhisattva (the Great Compassionate One) and the gathering place of Bai Juyi (Secretary Bai) with nine elders. Though glimpsing Mount Kongtong (where Guangchengzi cultivated the Dao) at dusk prevented ascent, the final route through Dengfeng (home of Mount Song) revealed locals dwelling in caves carved from earthen cliffs.
[Notes: Guangchengzi was a famous immortal from the Yellow Emperor's era; the "Seven Sages" reference recalls when the Yellow Emperor and six ministers sought Daoist teachings from Guangchengzi; "Ju-Ni" combines the names of Spring and Autumn period recluses Chang Ju and Jie Ni; Yan Guang was a renowned Eastern Han dynasty hermit.]
This travelogue records the author's observations during his journey around Mount Song. First visiting the Ershi Temple (a Daoist temple between Mount Song's Taishi and Shaoshi peaks), he saw the legendary stone where Bodhidharma meditated facing a wall, then proceeded toward Gong County via Huanyuan Ridge. Passing the famous Hulao Pass—a strategic military stronghold of antiquity—he noted that while less formidable than Hangu Pass, its pivotal location had secured its renown.
The next day crossing Mount Ao, site of Qin dynasty granaries where Li Yiji (advisor to Emperor Gaozu of Han) once proposed seizing provisions, he arrived eastward at the ruins of Hong Canal—the historic Chu-Han demarcation line. Gazing upon the two ancient cities atop Guangwu Mountain, the very battleground of their legendary conflict, he wept while reading Li Hua's wartime essays. A companion quoted Ruan Ji's (renowned Wei-Jin scholar) lament upon ascending Guangwu: "An age without heroes lets petty men claim fame"—prompting the author to clap and sigh, recalling Li Bai's poem summoning Ruan Ji's spirit.
On the third day exploring ancient Yangcheng, he ascended the Duke of Zhou's sundial platform and star observation terrace (ancient astronomical facilities), examining the stone "Sky-Measuring Ruler" inscribed with Zhou-era measurements. Viewing Xu You's tomb (the recluse who refused Emperor Yao's throne) on Mount Ji from afar, he dismissed local tales of grave robbers failing to open its stone outer coffin—arguing that Xu You, who disdained even a gourd dipper, would never prepare such burial items, suggesting later attribution.
That afternoon at Tianxian Palace east of Mi County, he encountered ancient pines before the Three Daughters of the Yellow Emperor's tombs, their bark powdered-white, sap melon-fragrant, twisted branches millennia-old. Outside, the "Dripping Canopy" featured water pouring from stone caves like teapots. The local bluish-white stonework rivaled Taihu Lake's famed scholar's rocks.
Finally passing ancient Zhengzhou and Zhongmu County, he found King Xuan of Zhou's parade grounds at Putian Marsh transformed into terraced fields and dikes. Discovering the ruins of Liezi's (Daoist philosopher) residence, he reached Daliang (Kaifeng's ancient name), musing over tales of Wei's noble lords like Lord Xinling from the Warring States era.
This passage recounts the author's travels through the historic sites of Kaifeng (ancient Bianliang) and his reflections on their past glory.
The text begins with the legendary story of Hou Ying, the righteous warrior of Yimen (Kaifeng's eastern gate) from the Warring States period, evoking deep nostalgia. Today, Mount Yi has been reduced to a mere mound, with no trace remaining of the literary gatherings hosted there by Prince Xiao of Liang, who once entertained famous scholars like Sima Xiangru and Mei Cheng. According to local records, Prince Xiao's famed "Rabbit Garden" was originally located in Guide Prefecture, southeast of Kaifeng's city walls. Nearby stands the "Ping Terrace" ruins, suggesting the garden's vast original scale. This terrace, also called Fan Terrace or Wind-Blown Terrace, earned its name from the sound of bamboo rustling in the evening breeze when climbed at sunset—a scene that recalls the visits of poets Du Fu, Li Bai, and Gao Shi. The site now additionally houses memorial halls for later literati Li Mengyang and He Jingming.
The terrace once hosted a Great Yu Temple where ancient visitors gazed upon the Yellow River and Luo River. Temple inscriptions by the calligrapher Li Yangbing remain there. To the southeast lies the old canal route where Emperor Yang of Sui sailed south—its banks once shaded by willow trees. Northeast stands the former site of Emperor Huizong of Song's Genyue imperial garden, whose extravagant construction exhausted the people's resources to transport exotic rocks and flowers, leaving not a single stone or tree remaining today.
Within the city walls, the renowned Xiangguo Temple and Iron Pagoda Temple remain well preserved. Outside, eighty li of tree-lined Yellow River dikes stretch into the distance. The author met a 105-year-old craftsman who attributed his longevity solely to drinking wine and thirty years of celibacy. Finally, while searching for traces of the Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove in Weishi County, the author found no verifiable remains of the famous Huang Gong's Wineshop from that era.
The Records of Famous Mountains Under Heaven documents the author's travels through the renowned peaks of the Central Plains (Zhongzhou) and his contemplations thereon.
The first section chronicles his journey: Departing from Weishi County, after forty li he reached Zhuxian Town, where the sight of the shrine honoring Yue Fei (Prince E of Yue) moved him to shed tears for this wronged loyalist. In the Renshen year, returning to Xuchang, he visited Guan Yu's former residence—the very site of the historical anecdote where the general "kept vigil by candlelight till dawn" (maintaining his integrity after surrendering to Cao Cao). The Guiyou year brought him to Yancheng, where he beheld the ancient ruins of Duke Huan of Qi's alliance meeting at Zhaoling during the Spring and Autumn period. The entire journey spanned thirty-five days across 2,300 li, including some 700-800 li of detours. Despite summer heat, frequent rains, and the hardship of his attendants, the profound joy of witnessing Zhongzhou's famed landscapes prevailed. He particularly noted the extraordinary pines of Mi County and the fantastical stones of Shaoshi Mountain as marvels of wood and rock, while the dignified elders of Daliang (Kaifeng) presented the finest human spectacle.
The latter section, Record of Visiting Sumen Mountain and Hundred Springs, contains Yuan Hongdao's reflections: Common opinion dismisses landscape immersion as trivial indulgence, yet even sages have their obsessions—some carry spades for wine like Liu Ling, others exhume graves for books like Huangfu Mi, or sever arms seeking dharma like Huike. When climbing Sumen Mountain, forgetting sleep and food seems eccentric to ordinary people, yet to Dao-realized individuals this is perfectly natural. Ruan Ji's (Sizong) resonant mountain whistles embodied authentic communion with nature. The shimmering waters of Hundred Springs, misty rain veils, and emerald-glistening grasses intoxicate like fine wine to a drinker or fair maidens to admirers. Through such comparisons, the author reveals that landscape obsession shares the same essence as other passions—only the realm differs.
The Records of Famous Mountains Under Heaven consists of two parts: the first presents the author's reflections on landscapes and worldly affairs, while the second documents Xue Zhengyan's travelogue of ascending Mount Song.
The first section contemplates the relationship between humans and natural landscapes. The author argues that water cannot reveal the mysteries where divine beings dwell, yet finds resonance with Shao Yong (Master Kangjie) of the Song dynasty—despite their different eras, both chose to withdraw from mundane society and immerse themselves in mountainous waterscapes. When challenged about whether calm waters contradict natural principles by lacking turbulence, the author counters that those truly drowning in wealth and status suffer worldly torments worse than physical drowning. Their forced flattery violates human nature more profoundly than water's tranquility violates expectations. Though an ordinary man himself, the author acknowledges understanding landscape pleasures while admitting he hasn't achieved complete spiritual absorption.
The second part meticulously records Xue Zhengyan's pilgrimage to Mount Song during the first month of 1404 (Yongle 2nd year). With General Ma, he first paid respects at the mountain deity temple, examining imperial Fengshan ritual steles from successive dynasties. At dawn next day, they trekked northward through ravines for eight or nine li to reach Jade Mirror Peak, visiting the legendary Qimu Stone (where Yu the Great's wife was said to have transformed). The adjacent Qimu Shrine lay in ruins, leaving only steles. Proceeding west, they found the abandoned Chongfu Palace site featuring ancient scholars' "floating wine cup" stone channel—now dry. Two more li westward brought them to the peak where Emperor Wu of Han reportedly heard "ten thousand years" acclamations during Fengshan rites. At the ruins of Songyang Abbey, they inspected Tang-era Tianbao period steles and five ancient cypresses, the largest requiring five men to embrace its trunk. Beneath it lay a stone carving inscribed "Emperor Wu of Han."
The "floating wine cup along winding streams" refers to literati drinking games where poets composed verses when cups drifted to them; "Fengshan steles" commemorate imperial mountain worship ceremonies. Through describing these remnants, the author subtly conveys melancholic reflections on historical transience.
The passage recounts the author's journey through Mount Song. The visit begins at the Temple of General Feng, where ancient cypress trees—so massive it takes three or four people to encircle their trunks—stand as living witnesses to centuries, perhaps millennia, of history. The group lingers, seated in quiet admiration, reluctant to leave.
Climbing another ten miles brings them to Fawang Temple, where the halls offer respite. A venerable monk with white eyebrows and a long beard, his demeanor exuding the grace of an immortal, greets them warmly. Here, they shed their outer garments, relax, and indulge in poetry and the surrounding scenery, savoring the serene moment.
Next, they ascend the precipitous Tianmen Peak. To the east lies Moon Gorge, to the west the Shaoshi Mountain, and to the south, the distant ranges of Nanyang and Xuchang stretch endlessly. The vast panorama blurs the boundaries between heaven and earth, as if they are floating amidst boundless clouds. Mount Song, positioned at the center of the cosmos, embodies the majestic and upright qualities of the earth—its "straight, square, and vast" nature. The twenty-four peaks mirror the twenty-four solar terms of the year, a marvel of natural creation that transcends mere descriptors like "lofty" or "expansive."
Descending leisurely, they pass Yuefu Temple and Huishan Ordination Platform, admiring the seasonal beauty of Yongtai Temple's peaks—though none rival the grandeur witnessed at Fawang Temple. As evening falls, they ride toward Shaolin Temple, the path lined with dense foliage and striking peaks. A mile from the temple, monks welcome them; the resonant toll of bells and drums drifts through the verdant hills, while golden pavilions gleam under the setting sun.
The author reflects: without climbing Fawang Temple's peak, one cannot grasp Mount Song's majesty; without ascending Shaolin Temple's heights, its profound mystery remains elusive. After supper, a monk guides them to Bodhidharma's Wall-Gazing Cave on Wuru Peak. Before the cave stands the Memorial Pavilion, housing statues of Bodhidharma and Shenguang (Huike). Nearby grows an ancient cypress said to have been planted by the Sixth Patriarch, Huineng. On the altar rests a two-foot-long stone, which the monk claims is the "shadow stone" formed by Bodhidharma's concentrated spirit during his wall-gazing meditation. Observing it closely, however, the author deduces it is merely a water-worn rock, not an actual cave wall fragment, and the faint image appears artificially carved. Skeptical, he instructs his attendants to wash the stone for closer inspection.
Though the stone mill remains unchanged in form, people have increasingly mythologized it. I offer this explanation: During the Liang and Wei dynasties, Buddhist devotees across the north and south were obsessed with constructing extravagant temples, exhausting the people's resources. When Bodhidharma came from the West, he advocated transcending scriptures to directly realize one's nature through silent meditation. Few understood this truth at the time—after nine years facing a wall, he departed. Could his intention have been merely to leave behind this stone for later generations to witness miracles?
That night I stayed in the abbot's quarters of Shaolin Temple. The next day, while exiting the Huanyuan Pass, the Commanding Duke told me: "At twenty, I led troops upstream along the Yangtze, traversed the Three Gorges, and explored every extraordinary peak of Bashu. Later stationed in Zhangye, I crossed the Shaanxi passes, traveled through Fenghao, and left footprints across Shangjun, Qilian, and Yuezhi territories. Bashu's mountains are too perilous, Zhangye's too desolate. For mountains that perfectly embody the clear spiritual Qi (vital energy) of heaven and earth with dignified, centered majesty—Songshan stands alone. After yearning for decades, today I finally ascend with you all, fulfilling my lifelong wish!"
Turning northwest from Goushan through Huanyuan Pass leads into the mountain valley where Shaolin Temple resides. Shaoshi Mountain spreads before it like a screen, embraced by peaks in natural harmony. Most ancient sites around Luoyang have been utterly destroyed, yet this temple preserves its original grandeur. Passing the Eastern Capital recently, I couldn't even identify the imperial palace ruins—Li Wenshu's recorded famous gardens have vanished without trace. The Buddhist statues and steles along the Yique cliffs stand eroded and overgrown, a heartbreaking sight. By comparison, this place offers some solace.
Master Chu observed: "Modern collectors value three qualities: antiquity, completeness, and inscriptions. Songshan has existed since Emperor Shun's era—that's antiquity; its mist-veiled meditation halls dotting the slopes represent completeness; while Tang and Sui dynasty steles crowd its courtyards with legible inscriptions." The abbot teased: "Reverend, surely you don't intend to haul this entire mountain to the antique market? Name your price!" Master Chu laughed: "If only some Hercules could carry it off!"
(Notes: Huanyuan Pass, Shaoshi Mountain and Yique are landmarks around Songshan; Master Chu is the author's friend; "abbot" refers to the temple's head monk)
This passage recounts the author's travels to Mount Shaoshi (part of Mount Song, where Shaolin Temple is located). It begins with an encounter with an elderly Caodong Zen monk at Xiaotang Monastery, where winding stone steps flank both eastern and western sides of the temple. Passing Ganlu Terrace, the author observes an ancient tree with roots resembling slanting stones and hollows like roof beams.
Heading west from the monastery, the author sees the shadow-stone of Bodhidharma, the First Patriarch, its white surface bearing black patterns strikingly similar to arhat paintings. The old monk explains this stone naturally reflects images of water, trees, and clouds. The author reflects: while the stone gains value through shadows, Bodhidharma's renown relies neither on shadows nor stone, nor solely on his wall-gazing meditation—all such externalities are ultimately superfluous.
Thirty li behind the hermitage lies Bodhidharma's meditation cave, its undulating stone walls resembling waves, with the towering Wuru Peak nearby. Descending southward another ten li brings the author to Master Huike's "Mind-Seeking Platform," bowl-shaped against emerald cliffs, overlooking the converging Yiluo and Yellow Rivers amid misty green vistas.
Returning to the monastery, the author recognizes traces of previous visits everywhere—the clouds, trees, and mountain ridges all feel familiar, as if visited in dreams. At dawn, children line up requesting martial arts demonstrations, which the abbot explains as mountain traditions. Attempting to climb Shaoshi proves impossible without clear paths, prompting the realization that its extraordinary beauty requires distant viewing—up close, its splendor becomes indistinct. From a distance, the mountain resembles an ancient bell protruding above peaks; viewed from Ruzhou, it appears as thousand-petaled lotuses shimmering against azure skies amidst drifting clouds.
Encircled by cliffs and obscured by surrounding foothills when approached, the mountain's summit remains invisible at close range. This inspires the author's reflection: heroes moving among crowds are often obscured by mediocrity; only when time passes and lesser talents wither like rotten grass can people gaze upward at these transcendent figures, treasuring their every word. Just as the author once glimpsed Jiuding Lotus Fortress from Nanyang's roads without recognition—its true form only becoming clear five hundred li away—so too must Shaoshi's magnificence be appreciated through such transcendent perspective.
The second section describes encountering a man in black headscarf and tattered blue robes at Shandong Pass who asks: "Have you come from the Western Glory Path?"—a question whose meaning remains obscure to the author.
Entering through the western gate of the mountain temple, one can't help but smile unconsciously. This shrine stands to the left of Huanggaifeng's base, and walking eastward for several li reveals a secluded mountain stream surrounded only by swaying reeds and echoing water sounds that encircle the mountain stronghold. Following the stream northward to the mountain's foot, the rivulet meanders with the terrain like a crescent moon.
As the land gradually rises, a temple appears, ending at a rocky area that was once the hermitage of Tang dynasty recluse Lu Haoran—locals still refer to it by his surname. Here, the mountain suddenly splits in two like outstretched arms, with a thousand-ren cliff recessed in the middle. Astonishingly, this precipice curves inward like a halved urn, from which a waterfall gushes forth.
Initially, the water clings to the rock face, dispersing like mist or snow, then suddenly plummets a thousand feet, shattering against the rocks into jade-like fragments that fill the entire ravine. It was early spring, with sunlight blending into the spray and mountain winds stirring—the waterfall's spectacle shifted unpredictably. Standing on precarious boulders a dozen paces away, visitors each claimed a rock to admire the falls while drinking. Suddenly, a gust swept spray onto our faces; just as we thought to retreat, the misty droplets swirled away diagonally.
My companion Zhu Fei'er remarked, "As a child reading the 'Tiantai Fu,' I learned of waterfalls but never imagined such splendor." I replied, "This is my third encounter with such a cascade. At Wuxie, it roared like thunder; at Huangyan, it stood solemn as a jade pillar. But this one carries a verdant chill, like sheer curtains—the most serene." Magistrate Fu Yuanding of Dengfeng once said, "One summer after rain, I passed here to find the waterfall hanging from the cliffs, striking the rocks like inverted pillars, shaking the entire mountain." I added, "The ancients said summer mountains seem to drip, winter mountains to slumber—waterfalls mirror this. Summer falls rage; winter falls smile. Now is Master Lu Haoran's time of smiling."
The cliff rocks display bizarre forms—some like rosy clouds, others deep azure, still others resembling mountain haze. At the base lies a boulder several zhang high, its grain washed by clouds into artificial-seeming carvings. The stream holds many white stones where ripples trace ink-like lines, similar to shadow stones though without forming human figures. West of the stream, a small cave fits several people, while downstream lie scattered stone tables, niches, and slabs of varied shapes, interplaying with emerald pools—a peerless mountain vista.
Continuing past the ruins of Yangcheng, we reached Huishan Temple. Half-collapsed, its clear spring vanishes at the gate. West several dozen paces stands the ordination platform (Buddhist precept platform), its broken railings and steps carved with exquisite Tang dynasty verses depicting figures and landscapes in minute detail. The stone pillars...
This passage documents the historical relics and distinctive landscapes of two famous mountains.
Regarding Mount Song: The site preserves stone inscriptions and carvings from the Tang and Song dynasties, originally serving as the summer retreat palace of Emperor Shaowen of Northern Wei. Since the Tang dynasty, it became a Buddhist monastic site featuring an ordination platform. Well-preserved ancient steles include: the "Bodhisattva Precepts Sutra" stele inscribed by Gao Jian in the 13th year of Dali era (778 CE), and the Songyang Temple stele from the 2nd year of Tianping era (535 CE) of Northern Wei (later relocated here in 664 CE). There are also imperial decree steles from Emperor Daizong's reign and Lu Changyuan's Record of the Ordination Platform. Particularly noteworthy is the 727 CE stele commemorating Chan Master Dao'an, which records the legend of the "Oven-Destroying" holy monk. The author laments how most precious inscriptions were erased by officials for their own carvings—a true cultural tragedy.
The Mount Song landscape section describes wonders like the Twin Pagodas Golden Buddha Cave, Gong-and-Drum Cave, and Lotus Flower Cave, all featuring natural springs. Surrounding areas host eight ancient temples including Fengxian Temple and Qianyuan Temple, plus the Five Dragons Shrine. Observing these massive constructions, the author reflects: such extravagant expenditure of labor surely marks periods of decline, contrasting sharply with the legendary Great Yu's flood control that truly benefited the people.
The Taihang Mountain account traces this range's origins from Yunzhong in the north, extending through Pingding Prefecture to Shangdang, traversing the Liao, Qin, Lu and Ze watersheds across three prefectures (Zhangde, Weihui, and Huaiqing). Its western extension becomes Zhongtiao Mountain reaching Leishou, while its eastern development forms Yan Mountain extending to Jieshi—all subsidiary ranges deriving from Taihang's main ridge, hence its name meaning "Great Progression." As a provincial boundary marker, it's also called "Provincial Mountain."
The text mentions "Vinaya" (Buddhist monastic discipline), "ordination platform" (for monastic vows), and the Tang dynasty Chan anecdote of the "Oven-Destroying" master. Through comparing ancient sage-kings with later rulers' excesses, the author critiques projects that exhausted people's resources.
The eastern stretch of the Taihang Mountains extends westward from the Central Plains, unfolding like an imperial canopy on either side, majestically covering the heartland. Precisely because the mountain range branches outward, its main peak doesn't appear particularly prominent, instead forming an overarching presence that envelops the entire Central Plains. Only the Taihang Mountains possess such magnificent geographical grandeur. Where the mountains come to rest marks the very foundation from which their imposing energy radiates.
Zhang Jinyan recorded seven visits to Baiquan in his travelogue: arriving in autumn when the vast waters seemed ready to swallow the rocks; winter journeys when snow-laden ridges appeared to crush the horizon; morning walks through mist steaming in the newborn sunlight; evening returns through twilight rains. Regrettably, the closing city gates always prevented him from spending the night there.
On the ninth day of the fourth month, he met with his friend Guo Gongwang at the Sumen Mountain Lodge. The imperial examination hall was then under construction, with craftsmen bustling among bamboo groves by the water, their overseers moving like clouds beneath parasols. The author raised his cup to avoid the clamor, wandering alone through the boundless landscape. As sunset approached and visitors dwindled, several friends rowed a small boat beneath stone railings, breaking bamboo to fashion makeshift oars. The crystalline water lay mirror-still as their vessel glided silently toward the spring's heart.
The boatman pointed to an unfathomably deep emerald expanse beneath ancient catalpa trees due north, describing how golden carp over ten feet long could be seen swimming there when sunlight struck. The author hastily paddled closer, only to observe shimmering reflections in the dark stone depths, the spring's source glowing like translucent glass. Where oars dipped, water pearls scattered—though no fish appeared, sudden aquatic plant movements made one imagine giant carp passing.
Mooring beneath the Yongjin Pavilion, the author traced Su Shi's vigorous calligraphy, feeling the ink's vitality permeate his sleeves. After paying respects at the Water God Temple and the statue of Confucius, they returned to find a crescent moon spanning the clear sky. As dusk deepened, the entire river turned jade-green; from the boat, one couldn't distinguish moonlight from waterlight, and even after extinguishing candles, the ambiguity remained. A singer's rendition of the "Red Cliff Ode" transported them to that legendary scene, prompting reflection on how Baiquan's beauty never achieved such fame—even landscapes have their fortunes and misfortunes.
Thus they raised cups to console this crystalline spring, sharing smiles of pure delight. The mountain recluse Wang Qianxiang rowed while singing loudly, and the author responded: "Cold mists drift where moon-shadows float, / Night trees embrace heaven in soundless repose. / Only the idle poet sits alone, / Lost between shimmering lights that merge as one."
This passage records two anecdotes about literati forming profound connections with natural landscapes and remarkable stones.
The first recounts the author's boat excursion to West Mountain. As the singing ceased, the small vessel drifted with the current until a sudden "dong-dong" sound emerged from a gap in the mountain. Tracing the noise proved futile as the sounds became chaotic before vanishing completely. Returning downstream, the rushing waters resonated powerfully as they passed the Heart-Cleansing Pavilion before disembarking. In a wine-induced haze, the author climbed stone bridges before Egret Islet, traversed steep mountain paths, and pushed through dense forests. Observing other travelers seated on Misty Rain Bluff, he noted their extinguished tea fire with cups still in place. Only at the third watch did he finally rest after walking six or seven li under moonlight.
The second anecdote presents Ye Mengde's commentary on Li Deyu's (courtesy name Wenrao) "Record of Plants and Trees at Pingquan." Li had vowed never to let descendants give away even a single plant from his Pingquan estate—a stance Ouyang Xiu (courtesy name Yongshu) found laughable. The author observes Li's obsession extended beyond flora, citing a Five Dynasties historical account where Zhang Quanyi murdered his grandson Yangu over possession of a Sobriety Stone. The author reflects how mere rocks could provoke fatal conflicts, then confesses his own obsession: after failing imperial examinations during the Shaosheng era, he purchased a remarkable four-foot stone in Lingbi County (renowned for chime stones) despite financial constraints. Only in later years, after attaining Daoist realization, did he recognize Li Deyu's attachment as pathological—now freely giving stones when requested without attachment.
[Contextual notes: "Pingquan" refers to Tang chancellor Li Deyu's Luoyang villa estate; Lingbi County in modern Anhui was famed for its musical stones. Both stories reveal literati's passionate engagement with natural objects and their spiritual evolution from attachment to transcendence.]
This passage records observations regarding the source of the Ji River (an important waterway in antiquity) and Mount Wangwu. Through firsthand investigation, author Li Lian clarifies several popular misconceptions.
Mount Wangwu is the headwater of the Ji River, with both the Classic of Mountains and Seas (Shanhaijing) and Geographical Records documenting that the "Lian River" flowing from here was actually the Ji River (one of the four sacred rivers of ancient China). The Ji River's waters are jade-clear and swift-flowing, capable of passing through the Yellow River without becoming turbid—hence its name "Ji," meaning a river originating north of the Yellow River yet flowing southward.
The author consulted the ancient geographical work Commentary on the Waterways Classic (Shuijing Zhu) and found scant mention of the Ji River's purported marvels, suggesting most folk tales about supernatural occurrences were baseless. Living merely three hundred li from Jiyuan, he often heard villagers claim one could borrow money or medicinal herbs at the Ji River Temple to cure illnesses, though he remained skeptical. In March 1545 (Jiajing reign period), he deliberately chose the folkloric "Tidal Offering" day—when deities were said to manifest—to conduct a solitary investigation.
At the site, he witnessed an endless stream of county officials and commoners making pilgrimages, with Buddhist chants echoing through the mountains day and night. The author lamented how foolishly the masses pursued blessings. He reverently paid respects at the Ji River Temple, behind which stood a shrine to the North Sea Deity—since legend held the Ji River's source connected to the North Sea, hence the worship here.
Before the shrine lay two pools: the eastern one, where divine manifestations were said to appear, and the western one separated by a stone bridge. Both pools received water from the Taiyi Pool atop Mount Wangwu, which traveled ninety li underground before surfacing here. Local gazetteers record the eastern pool's circumference as seven hundred paces with unfathomable depth, while the western pool measured six hundred eighty-five paces around and ten feet deep. Their combined waters flowed southwest past Duke Guo's Terrace in Wen County.
From contemporary observation, the Eastern Pool is actually the Eastern Source—merely a hundred paces in circumference and not particularly deep. The Western Pool, or Western Source, shares similar dimensions with its eastern counterpart, reaching only three to four feet in depth. I once personally ascended the summit of Mount Wangwu and found that even the legendary Taiyi Pool had completely dried up. How dramatically the mountains and rivers have transformed between ancient and modern times!
During the early Zhengde era of the Ming dynasty, Pan Tang of Chuchen, while serving in Huaqing Prefecture, investigated and noted: Every year around the transition between spring and summer, the waters here would suddenly surge and boil, with vapors rising far more intensely than usual. Objects placed near the spring would occasionally be propelled to the surface by this force—a natural phenomenon hardly worth marveling at. I once spent an entire day seated by the water hall and witnessed fabrics, peachwood talismans (Fulu), and other items floating up, each inscribed with the names and dates of those who had cast them in. Upon retrieval, it became clear these were all offerings made within the past three days. Thus, earlier claims that items submerged years ago would resurface were nothing but baseless rumors.
I also observed medicine wrapped in paper floating to the surface in response to petitioners, with characters written on the paper. If this were truly the work of divine spirits, one would expect celestial cloud-seal script (Daoist talismanic writing) to appear—yet these inscriptions were utterly mundane, and those who consumed the medicine reported no effects. Could this not be a deliberate fabrication by the temple staff? As for the silver figurines of infants cast by those praying for children—some sank while others floated. The reason became apparent: these figurines were hollow, and those crudely made with leaks sank, while intact ones remained afloat. If this were truly a matter of sincere devotion invoking a response, why did other offerings fail to manifest any efficacy?
Pan Tang remarked: If these were truly miraculous waters, their power should manifest regardless of the season. Why then do these phenomena occur exclusively during the spring-summer transition? Clearly, they are natural occurrences driven by the heightened earthly Qi of the springs. To claim these waters could summon clouds and rain, nourish crops, cease or resume flowing independently of other sources, or even surge directly into the sea—such attributes would indeed befit the numinous nature of the Ji River. This is why the ancient sage-kings enshrined the Ji as one of the Four Great Rivers (Sidu) and established temples in its honor, sustaining worship for millennia—a practice grounded in reason.
According to imperial protocol, only the Son of Heaven may dispatch officials to conduct sacrifices here. Historical stele inscriptions also record: Ignorant commoners flock from afar in unruly crowds, men and women mingling chaotically along the roads, deludedly seeking blessings through misguided means. Since antiquity, unscrupulous individuals have exploited the names of gods and spirits to incite rebellion—such as Zhang Jiao of the late Han, who rallied mobs under such pretexts, amassing thirty-six factions to wreak havoc across the land. How, then, can those who govern permit such deluded practices among the people without prohibition?
This mountain resembles the ornate canopy (a ceremonial parasol) of ancient emperors, hence its name Wangwu Mountain (Royal Canopy Mountain). Some describe it as a crouching dwelling, or say its hollow interior contains celestial abodes arranged like an emperor's vast palace.
According to the Scripture of White Jade from Tortoise Mountain (Guishan Baiyu Shangjing) and Biography of Maojun (Maojun Neizhuan), within the Great Heaven (one of the Daoist Nine Heavens) lie thirty-six mystical caverns. The first is Wangwu Cavern, spanning ten thousand li, known as the "Minor Heaven of Purity and Emptiness." Du Fu's poetic line "I recall journeying north to seek the Minor Cavern" refers to this very place. The summit, called Celestial Altar (Tiantan), remains perpetually shrouded in mist. When clouds churn, thunderstorms rage below, forcing birds to circle only halfway up the slopes. Tradition holds this as an ancient gathering site for immortals, revered as the "Western Summit"—paired with Wudang Mountain (Southern Summit) and Mount Tai (Eastern Summit) as the "Three Sacred Summits."
I had long yearned to behold the celestial beauty of Wangwu's Celestial Altar, but worldly affairs detained me until the thirteenth day of the third lunar month in the Yisi year. At dawn, I crossed the river to begin my pilgrimage. The first night I lodged in Yuanwu, the next in Wuzhi, the third in Tanhuai, and the fourth in Jiyuan. On the fifth morning, I traveled forty li westward from the county town along mountain gullies, dining at Huling before trekking fifteen li southwest across the Qinling Ridge—all paths winding through high peaks. Another five li brought me to Jianhe Fort, then fifteen li northwestward to finally reach Yangtai Palace at Wangwu's base.
Yangtai Palace was the cultivation site of Tang-dynasty Daoist master Sima Chengzhen. Its Hall of Vast Yang (Liaoyang Dian), bearing an inscription by Emperor Xuanzong himself, enshrines a majestic statue of the Celestial Emperor of the Vast Heaven (the supreme Daoist deity), flanked by twelve stellar deities. To the east lies White Cloud Abbey (Baiyun Daoyuan), Sima Chengzhen's retreat (his Daoist name was "White Cloud"). Within the courtyard rests an ancient cauldron—ten feet in diameter and several feet deep—a relic from former dynasties.
South of the palace stands Eight Immortals Ridge, its contours resembling eight celestial beings bowing in reverence toward Yangtai. Nearby sites include Immortal Cat Cavern and the Spring of Agelessness. A hundred paces northeast leads to the shrine of Yanluozi (marked by a ginseng-washing well). Yanluozi, a Later Jin dynasty figure, was said to have been a tenant farmer at Yangtai Palace. Through diligent cultivation, he once unearthed a divine ginseng root in the mountains; after his family consumed it, they ascended to immortality.
Following the mountain stream path northward, one treads upon tangled vines and treacherous rocks. The cliffs on either side rise like knife-cut walls soaring into the clouds, towering thousands of ren high. The mountain wind howls through rock crevices and forests, stirring both awe and trepidation. After eight li along this mountain stream path, the ascent begins—a winding trail with countless turns, where one can only follow the stone steps and the guiding Daoist priest until finally reaching Purple Tenuity Palace (Zǐwēi Gōng). Looking up, the palace halls appear suspended in the heavens. Above the gate hangs a golden plaque inscribed "Wangwu Mountain Gate of Paying Homage to Truth" (Wángwū Shān Cháozhēn Mén), and within stands the Hall of Heavenly Kings, its plaque proclaiming "Foremost Grotto-Heaven Under Heaven."
Ascending further brings one to the Hall of the Three Pure Ones (Sānqīng Diàn), facing Mount Huaigai, whose shape resembles a leveled altar. Higher still is the Hall of Penetrating Radiance (Tōngmíng Diàn), enshrining a statue of the August Heaven God (Hàotiān Shàngdì). Inside, vermilion scripture cabinets line the walls, containing several cases of the imperial Daoist Canon (Dàozàng) bestowed by the court. Dozens of stone steles remain as relics from the Song, Jin, and Yuan dynasties. At dusk, we shared a modest drink in the Pine and Chrysanthemum Hall of the Abbot’s quarters. The next morning, on the Gengchen day, we set off before dawn for the summit of the Heavenly Altar (Tiāntán Juédǐng).
First, we rode in mountain palanquins hauled upward by servants with ropes. Two li west of Purple Tenuity Palace lies Wangxian Slope, where traces remain of the hermitage of Master Piyunzi (a renowned Yuan dynasty Daoist). Another four li upward brought us to the Resting Pavilion (Qìxī Tíng), where all climbers pause for tea. Beside it lies the Skyward Pool (Yǎngtiān Chí), sunken at the center with raised edges—once a spring, now dried. From here, the path grows steeper, forcing us to abandon the palanquins and proceed on foot.
Next came the Ridge of the Gaunt Dragon (Shòulóng Lǐng, named for its bony spine-like contours), then through the First Heavenly Gate (Yītiān Mén), and the ascent of the Eighteen Bends (Shíbā Pán)—a spiraling climb up sheer cliffs until reaching Cloud-Treading Ridge (Nièyún Qiáo). Here, one can see the Footprint Stone left by the immortal Misty Vine Master (Yānluózi) upon his ascension, with the Avoid-Qin Ravine (Bìqín Gōu) below. Further up stands Purple-Gold Crag (Zǐjīn Yán), with the Cave of the Three Officials (Sānguān Dòng) to the right and the Immortal’s Bridge (Xiānrén Qiáo) before it. Soon we reached the Southern Heavenly Gate (Nántiān Mén), the most perilous stretch requiring ascent by iron chains.
At the Southern Gate, we admired the Imperial Beloved Pine (Yù’ài Sōng) said to have been planted by the Yellow Emperor (Xuānyuán Huángdì), rested briefly at the Robe-Changing Pavilion (Huànyī Tíng), then paid respects at the Jade Emperor Hall (Yùhuáng Diàn). To its east stands the Breeze Terrace (Qīngfēng Tái), to the west the Moonlight Terrace (Míngyuè Tái)—both massive boulders. A few dozen steps beyond lies the summit, where we entered the Temple of the Unborn Sovereign (Xūhuáng Guàn) to venerate the Yellow Emperor’s shrine and the True Lord’s Temple (Zhēnjūn Cí). Finally, we ascended the three-tiered Jade Terrace (Yáo Tái) to gaze afar: to the east, Sun-Essence Peak (Rìjīng Fēng) blazed golden at dawn; to the west, Moon-Splendor Peak (Yuèhuá Fēng) shimmered silver at moonrise.
Standing here, one can gaze eastward at the vast ocean and Mount Tai, while to the west lies the Kunlun Mountains. To the north stretches Xicheng Mountain, and looking south, the Yellow River appears as thin as a silk thread, facing the Shaoshi Peak of Mount Song across the water. All these magnificent landscapes unfold before one’s eyes, while the peaks below, like Huagai Mountain, seem as small as mere mounds. I quietly pondered that no other place in the world could surpass this in grandeur. Lingering here for a long time, I finally descended the three-tiered Jade Terrace (Yaotai), admiring the stone inscriptions left by past generations until the sun began to set in the west.
That evening, staying at the mountain temple, I suddenly recalled Li Bai’s verse: "I long to follow the Master to the Celestial Altar, / Idly sweeping fallen petals with the immortals." Instantly, a transcendent longing to rise above the mundane world arose in me. Just as I was about to retire, a Daoist priest hurried in to report, inviting me to witness the "Celestial Lanterns." Rushing outside, I saw distant flickering lights resembling shooting stars, rising and falling unpredictably. My companions exchanged bewildered glances, astonished by the sight. The next day, before dawn, I rose to watch the sunrise. At first, the spectacle was extraordinary, but as daylight broke, dark clouds obscured the view. Soon after, however, the mist dispersed.
Passing through the North Heavenly Gate (Beitianmen), I saw over a dozen ancient pines, twisted like coiling dragons, standing in rows like sentinels—each a thousand-year-old relic. I then visited the Cliff of Self-Sacrifice (Sheshenya) and the Stone of Devoted Heart (Zhixinshi). On the northeastern precipice, a protruding rock, about a foot wide and over ten feet long, teetered precariously over a bottomless abyss, sending shivers down my spine. I also toured Laozi’s Alchemy Pool (Liandanchi), beside which stood a shrine to Laozi housing ancient steles. I heard of the Queen Mother’s Cave (Wangmudong) to the northeast, said to be unfathomably deep and rarely visited, where golden dragons and jade tablets were cast during the Yuan dynasty. Though I wished to explore it, the Daoists warned of treacherous paths and the presence of hidden snakes and tigers, so I reluctantly abandoned the idea.
Walking over a mile toward the South Heavenly Gate (Nantianmen), I visited the Black Dragon Cave (Heilongdong), in front of which lay the Taiyi Spring (also called Taiyi Pool), the source of the Ji River. Folklore tells that white qi rising from Xicheng Mountain condensed into damp clouds atop the Five Dipper Peak (Wudoufeng), dripping through the cave to form the Taiyi Pool. The Daoists claimed that during major festivals, at the fifth watch (before dawn), one could hear ethereal chimes resonating from the distant cave, and that at sunrise and sunset, strange inverted shadows would appear. Regrettably, my hurried visit prevented me from witnessing these marvels. That day, I descended the mountain along the same path and stayed again at the Purple Tenuity Palace (Ziweigong).
I recalled once dreaming of an extraordinarily unique mountain. Though I later traveled to many famed peaks, none matched that vision—until today, when ascending this mountain, I finally felt it aligned with my dream.
The scenery of Mount Wangwu perfectly matched what I had seen in my dreams—could this be mere coincidence?
Thirty li southwest of Luoyang lies a place called Yique. On the twenty-ninth day of the eleventh month in the year Guiyou, during midwinter, the presented scholar Lu Jingfu accompanied me on an excursion there. Five li beyond the city walls, we crossed the Tianjin Bridge, which had long since collapsed—its stones all carted away by the powerful—and was now rebuilt with timber. After another two li, we reached the Shaozi Shrine, the legendary "Nest of Peace and Happiness," housing a statue of Shao Yong. After paying our respects, we continued onward.
Twenty-three li later, we arrived at Yique. The name derives from two cliffs facing each other with the Yi River flowing between them; locals also call it "Dragon Gate." Legend claims these cliffs were split open by Yu the Great, though Sima Guang argued they were naturally formed, with Yu merely regulating the waters rather than creating the passage. My research indicates the true Dragon Gate lies in Xiajin County, Shanxi—the actual site of Yu's flood control—making this location clearly distinct.
We ascended the western cliff to the Five Dragons Shrine, then followed the cliffside to Qianxi Temple. The entire temple complex was carved into stone caves, with thousands of Buddha statues—large and small—sculpted into the cliffs inside and out. These were reportedly commissioned by Empress Dowager Hu of the Northern Wei during her fervent patronage of Buddhism. After lunching with Jingfu at the temple, we headed east, where springs occasionally emerged from rock crevices. A short distance north, three perennial warm springs—known as "hot springs"—bubbled forth year-round.
Crossing the Yi River southeast for half a li brought us to the eastern cliff. A massive boulder split down the middle prompted an elderly monk to declare this the true "Dragon Gate," where legend says a dragon once soared forth—its scales and mane still visibly imprinted on the stone. Evidently, folk tales aren't entirely fabricated. Since visitors typically stop at the western cliff without guidance to this eastern site, few witness these marks. Sima Guang's rebuttal only denied Yu's involvement in splitting the cliffs; other legends may well hold truth.
Sixty paces farther, a precariously balanced boulder bore tiger claw marks beside it—dubbed "Tiger-Propped Rock." Thirty paces beyond stood "Phoenix Stone," its footmarks about one chi wide, with five claws and one spur deeply embedded. These traces seemed extraordinary; some suspected forgery. Yet I noted modern phoenix depictions show only one spur and three claws—never five. If fabricated, why deviate from common imagery? This made me suspect authenticity. Jingfu remarked that this excursion revealed the true Dragon Gate and authenticated phoenix prints—both unprecedented wonders in his life—and urged me to record them to supplement local chronicles. Thus I composed this travel account.
In the spring of the Renzi year (referring to a specific year), on the sixteenth day of the third month (Gengzi day), the Duke of Dongping hosted a banquet in the East Garden. That day, all the officials arrived in formal attire, after which they requested to visit the Confucian Temple (Queli refers to Confucius's hometown). By the Bingwu day, the supervising official Han Wenxian (style name Dehua) from Lulong and Liu Xu (style name Zizhong) from Gu were assigned to arrange the itinerary. On the Dingwei day, I set out from Wangyue Gate with Dehua, Zizhong, along with Kong [Mu Rui] (style name Qizhi), who was in charge of ceremonial affairs, Zhang Yu (style name Ziyuan) from Liangshan, and Zhang Min (style name Boda) from Bianliang. The officials from the secretariat bid us farewell at East Lake.
We traveled sixty li east and spent the night in Wenshang County. Wenshang was the ancient Zhongdu, a place once governed by Confucius—he served as an official here in the ninth year of Duke Ding of Lu. The county has a "Hall of Longing for the Sage," inscribed with Du Fu's poem "Gazing at Mount Tai." Outside the western city wall lies the tomb of the Five Dynasties general Wang Yanzhang. Seeing how such figures once served in the Liang dynasty gives insight into the conditions of that era.
On the Wushen day, we arrived in Yanzhou and conversed with the local officials Meng Qian (style name Boyi) and instructor Zhang Duo (style name Zhenwen), who gave us a detailed account of the beauty of Mount Yi. Du Fu's lines, "Floating clouds connect the sea and Mount Tai, the plains stretch into Qingzhou and Xuzhou," were written when he ascended the South Tower—Xuzhou lies four hundred li to the south, Qingzhou seven hundred li to the northeast, the East Sea over a thousand li to the northeast, and Mount Tai (Daiyue) about a hundred li away. To think that places separated by two or three thousand li could all be seen at once—how different this is from scholars who spend their entire lives confined within a hundred-li radius!
On the Jiyou day, we set off eastward with Zhenwen. Before traveling five li, we crossed the Si River, where the terrain opened up high and wide. Looking south, we glimpsed Mount Fu and Mount Yi emerging intermittently through the mist and trees, broadening our spirits. After another thirty li or so, we reached Miaokong Village, where we saw fragmented remnants of city walls—likely the ruins of the ancient Lu capital. The lush, verdant expanse must have been the Confucian Grove (Confucius's cemetery). Unconsciously, our faces lit up with joy as we entered the city through Guide Gate.
The capital of Lu had twelve gates: the southern gate was called Ji Gate, with Zhang Gate to its left and Yu Gate to its right; the northern gate was Gui Gate, with Qi Gate to its left and Long Gate to its right; the eastern gate was Jianchun Gate, with Shiming Gate to its left and Lu Gate to its right; the western gate was Shi Gate, with Mai Gate to its right. Guide Gate was on the eastern side, named "Returning to Virtue" by the people of Lu because most scholars from across the land entered through this gate. Clan leader Kong Degang, along with his nephews, welcomed us west of the Confucian Temple. After exchanging greetings, we reverently proceeded together toward Dazhong Gate.
This passage describes the route and observations during a visit to the Confucian Temple in Qufu and its surrounding historic sites. Entering from the north of Yucui Gate on the eastern side, one passes the temple residences and school before reaching the fasting hall south of Jinsi Hall. The hall north of the central gate records the deeds of Duke Gong of Lu. As it was a private day of mourning, formal homage was respectfully withheld.
When the bell tolled, the group assembled beneath the Apricot Altar, grieving at the sight of the temple's fire-ravaged remains. To the north stood the newly constructed Shrine of the Lady of Yun, housing portraits that had been ritually restored for veneration. After paying respects to King Wenxuan (Confucius), they descended the steps to honor the Shrine of Duke Qi and the Lady of Lu. West-facing to the south stood the Marquis Yusheng of Nishan (posthumous title of Confucius' father Shuliang He), while further west, facing east, was the Hall of Five Sages dedicated to Mencius, Xunzi, Yang Xiong, Wang Tong, and Han Yu. The stele inscriptions were composed by Vice Censor-in-chief Kong Daofu.
A ceremonial drinking of blessings followed in the fasting hall, with clan youths officiating. Their dignified observance of ritual bows and courtesies visibly preserved the legacy of ancient sages. The characters "Apricot Altar" were calligraphed by Dang Huaiying of Zhuxi. North of the altar lay the legendary Zilu's Stone (said to be rotated by the disciple Zilu during martial training), while ten paces south stood the Zhenzong Emperor's Hall of Eulogies containing fire-damaged remnants of encomiums for the Seventy-Two Sages and other Confucian scholars from the Zhenyou era.
Before the eulogy hall originally grew two or three cypresses purportedly planted by Confucius himself—only charred stumps remained of the southern specimen, commemorated in odes by Academician Zhao Bingwen and Recluse Ma Jiuchou. Further south stood twin stele pavilions: the eastern one housed inscriptions by Song statesman Lü Mengzheng with calligraphy by Bai Chongju, alongside Jin-era steles both composed and inscribed by Dang Huaiying; the western pavilion contained Tang monuments including Cui Xinggong's text with Sun Shifan's calligraphy (bearing Emperor Gaozu's 626 decree and 666 sacrificial text on the reverse), plus a 719 stele composed by Li Yong and inscribed by Zhang Tinggui.
Proceeding southward stood the Kuixin Pavilion, erected during Jin Emperor Zhangzong's reign. Its eastern side gate displayed Confucius' Teaching Portrait attributed to Gu Kaizhi and three smaller likenesses by Wu Daozi. The eastern corridor held six clerical-script steles, while the western corridor displayed eight—four in clerical script, the remainder Tang-Song era inscriptions.
The day concluded by exiting through the northern side gate, passing the Hereditary Title Office to study genealogical steles, then proceeding north through Narrow Lane to view the abandoned Well Pavilion of Yan Hui's former dwelling, before finally entering the Confucian Forest through Dragon Gate for contemplative wandering in the Hall of Remembrance.
Following the road northward, one encounters two stone stelae (ancient commemorative tablets), four stone guardian beasts, and two stone figures flanking the path. Two of the stone beasts are depicted roaring skyward—a ceremonial arrangement from ancient rituals honoring the sage Confucius.
The burial complex retains its original layout. Before the tomb stands a stone altar platform constructed with forty-nine square slabs, each about three feet thick. This was built during the first year of the Yongjia era (145 CE) of the Eastern Han dynasty by Han Shujie, Chancellor of the State of Lu. To the east lies the tomb of Marquis Sishui (Confucius' disciple Bo Yu), while to the south is the tomb of Duke Yi of Lu (Confucius' grandson Zisi). According to Records of the Confucian Family, the two tombs were originally only ten paces apart—their current proximity likely resulting from later expansions. Both maintain modest dimensions, conforming to ancient "horse-mane mound" burial customs.
West of Zisi's tomb stands another stone altar erected in the second month of 6 CE, inscribed with the titles "Prefect of Shanggu" and "Magistrate of Zhuqi." Northwest of Confucius' tomb runs the White Rabbit Gully, flanked by two peculiarly carved stone beasts. The surrounding forest stretches over ten li, with bamboo and trees so luxuriant as to be rarely seen elsewhere. The grove's distinctive hardwood trees (a species unique to the Confucian Forest) display exquisite grain patterns, prized for their rarity. Remarkably, the forest contains neither thorns nor bird nests.
Three li east of the woods lie the ruins of Confucius' lecture hall. Both the forest and lecture site are situated between the Zhu River to the north and Si River to the south. Records of the Confucian Family notes that in the 36th year of King Jing of Zhou (484 BCE), after returning from Wei to Lu, Confucius edited the Book of Songs and Book of Documents, revised ritual music here, and composed commentaries to the Book of Changes. The nearby Inkstone Well was submerged by floods last autumn.
In the Xinhai year (likely 1911), I paid respects at the Duke of Zhou Temple, located three li northeast of the Confucius Temple. The compound houses a stele inscribed by Emperor Zhenzong of Song. Southeast of the main hall stands the Cartwheel Well, whose clear, sweet water locals call "Nectar Well." North of the temple lies the Twin Stone Beam Well, its curbstone grooved with rope marks a finger's depth. A hundred paces north brings one to the ruins of Sacred Fruit Monastery, originally the palace of Lu. Northeast of its main hall yawns a massive well sixty zhang in diameter and two zhang deep, its waters ink-black.
Proceeding east past the tomb of Vice Minister Yan (Yan Hui) brings one to Yan Temple, where stands a solitary juniper some five zhang tall. From Qufu, turning west then northeast for one li leads into the abandoned Jingling Palace complex. Northeast of Shouling (originally "Jingling," renamed for naming taboo reasons) lies the burial site of Emperor Shaohao (one of the Five Legendary Emperors), decorated with stonework during the Song dynasty. Former white marble statues here were cracked by fire. The altar's stone balustrades display craftsmanship so exquisite they might have been carved by spirits. Temple inscriptions reveal initial construction during the Xiangfu era (1008-1016) and renovations during Zhenghe (1111-1118)—vanity projects by rulers seeking blessings through extravagance. Can fortune truly be compelled?
Four colossal steles stand here, known colloquially as "The People's Sorrow." Two measure twenty-three feet in width.
This passage describes the scenery and architectural specifications of ancient mausoleum complexes in famous mountains. First, the dimensions of the stone steles: the base of the first stele (a tortoise-shaped pedestal) measures eighteen feet in length, with a stele body four feet thick. The stele crown (decorated with a bixi, one of the nine sons of the dragon in legend, often used as ornamental tops for steles) stands thirteen feet high, matching the stele’s width. The second stele is even more magnificent—twenty-four feet wide, with a crown reaching eighteen feet in height, sixteen feet wide, four feet thick, and a tortoise-shaped pedestal extending nineteen feet. These steles are located outside and inside the city walls, respectively, and bear no inscriptions, likely because the Jin army invaded just as they were nearing completion.
The author notes that the origin of the name "Shouling" (Longevity Mausoleum) is difficult to trace. Entering through the eastern gate and heading southwest, one encounters over forty grand tombs of the Han-dynasty lords of the Lu Kingdom. In front of the tombs stand four stone beasts and three stone figures, with seal-script inscriptions carved on their chests. However, the text is too worn to decipher fully—only fragments like "Tomb of Lian Jun, Grand Administrator of Le’an in the Han Dynasty" and "Lord of Such-and-Such Prefecture" remain legible. Crossing the Yi River northward, the author arrives at the Great Chan Monastery, where protruding stones in the Kui Spring resemble a crouching giant tortoise and an enraged crocodile. A temple stele records that this was once the Spring Palace of the Lu Kingdom.
Returning at dusk via the Ji Gate, the author gazes at two towering observation platforms in the distance, recalling the story of Confucius, who served as Minister of Justice in Lu, executing Shao Zhengmao beneath these platforms within seven days—an illustration of how Emperor Shun punished the Four Villains to earn the world’s trust. Ascending the Pan Palace Terrace, the author finds water about ten feet deep flowing from west to south below, though its source is untraceable. To the west lie the ruins of the Lingguang Hall, strewn with broken plinths and shattered tiles—a desolate sight.
The next day, traveling ten li northeast from the county town, the author passes Taole Village and looks southward at an unbroken line of burial mounds—the tombs of the Lu Kingdom’s Zhou-dynasty rulers. Five li southeast brings them to Xie Grove, where they pay respects at the tomb of the Sage’s Father, the Duke of Qi. This grove spans forty acres, and a stone inscription at the tomb’s front records that it was erected in the spring of the Jiachen year by the 51st-generation descendant Yuan Cuo, with calligraphy by Gao Tao of Yijin. A ditch flows northeast from the grove into the Si River, while to the south stands Mount Fang, its five peaks aligned east to west. The Book of Rites mentions joint burials at Mount Fang, referring to this very place. North of the grove lies the road to Dongmeng.
Heading south from the western peak, the author visits the tomb of Yanzi (Yan Hui), where a stone inscription identifies him as "Former Teacher, Duke of Yan." It was erected in the third month of the Dading Jiachen year by the 50th-generation descendant of Confucius, Kong Zong—a Chengzhi Lang, Magistrate of Qufu, and hereditary Duke Yansheng—with calligraphy by Wang Yun of Taiyuan. Before the tomb stands a stone about two feet high, carved with two armored warriors sitting back-to-back, one wielding an axe and the other a ceremonial baton (jinwu).
This passage documents the author's journey exploring Ni Mountain (Confucius' birthplace) and surrounding historical sites near Qufu, Shandong.
North of Ni Mountain lies an unidentifiable small mound, while descendants of the Yan clan (Confucius' disciple Yan Hui) inhabit two branches in Shangsong Village slightly to the east. That day, traveling southeast along Bingge Mountain westward, the author passed Bai Village and Xiluyuan before lodging at Dongluyuan. The next morning, trekking eastward through wooded hills for about six li, they reached mist-shrouded Ni Mountain—its five peaks dominated by a distinctively flat-topped main summit, historically described as "plastered smooth like a trowel's work."
Though the Confucian temple had long fallen into ruin, its layout remained discernible: to the west stood Zhiyuan Stream Bridge, with the grand Dacheng Gate due south and Dacheng Hall to the north. Flanking the complex were the Sishui Marquis Hall (honoring disciple Zigong) to the east and the Yishui Marquis Hall (honoring disciple Zeng Shen) to the west. Behind Dacheng Hall lay successive structures: the Lady of Yun State Hall (Confucius' wife Qiguan) and fasting quarters. Western auxiliary halls honored the states of Qi and Lu, while southeast of the Qi Hall stood the Yusheng Marquis Hall (Confucius' father Shuliang He). East of Dacheng Hall, the fasting chamber and other buildings remained largely intact. Due north lay Zhonghe Ravine, with Guanchuan Pavilion southwest—where among the ruins the author discovered a fragmentary stele erected by former jinshi Liu Ye of Fuyang, bearing his "Jialu Correction" (a scholarly rebuttal against the crude local toponym "Donkey Pass").
Descending east from Guanchuan Pavilion led to Kunling Cave, its entrance obstructed by jagged rocks. A village elder recounted how fifty years prior, a gaunt temple caretaker named Guan Yongji had ventured inside with torch and rope, discovering a luminous stone chamber several zhang northward containing immovable natural stone beds and pillows—the cave's name carved by Liu Ye.
Crossing the Yi River, the author glimpsed the overgrown Wende Grove at the foot of Yanmu Mountain, though neither Confucian temple nor sacred well survived. Retracing their path to Luyuan, they proceeded southwest via Sangjiazhuang, traversing Jun Mountain for twenty li to Siji Mountain to pay respects at Duke of Zou's tomb (Mencius' burial site, flanked northeast by scholar Sun Fu's stele and seven smaller unidentifiable ancient mounds west). Journeying south four or five li past Yasheng Temple, they covered ten more li before turning southwest from Shijingbu—finally reaching Zou County after forty li. On the third day of the fourth month, departing the southern gate, they walked twenty-five li to the northwestern foothills of Yi Mountain.
(Note: "Sishui Marquis" and "Yishui Marquis" refer to posthumous titles of Confucius' disciples Zigong and Zeng Shen; "Lady of Yun State" honors Confucius' wife Qiguan; "Yusheng Marquis" denotes Confucius' father Shuliang He; "Duke of Zou" indicates Mencius.)
This travelogue recounts the author's journey through famous mountains. We entered from the southeast of Swallow Rock, where massive boulders lay scattered in the ravines like houses. Due to a foot injury, I rested beneath the cliffs while my companions unfolded a map of Mount Yi, pointing out scenic spots against the waxed paper.
From the heights, we could see the ruins of Marquis Ji's (ruler of the ancient Ji state during the Spring and Autumn period) city walls, the ancient tomb of a Han dynasty chancellor, and extraordinary sights like the Jade Maiden Peak and Thousand Buddha Pagoda. Along the path, murmuring streams flowed through dense bamboo groves adorned with blossoms and fruits—a breathtaking landscape. At dusk, we descended northwestward to the county town's southern gate, paying respects at Duke Zou's Temple.
The next day, we set out from the western gate, trekking ten li north to Wanshan Temple, crossing bamboo-lined paths and arched bridges. Continuing northeast for twenty-five li brought us to Saddle Mountain, where we visited the Tomb of Mother Meng. Another fifteen li north took us to Zhaoshan Village, then ten more li to the ancient city of Lu. We climbed the Suburban Platform (an ancient astronomical observatory), measuring fifty-eight paces east-west and forty paces north-south. Only three ancient platforms remain in Lu: this one, along with the Pan Palace Platform and Duke Zhuang's Platform.
After fording the Yi River, we followed bamboo paths to Floating Fragrance Pavilion, named for its surrounding plum blossoms. Nearby to the north lay a stone cave housing Tea Spring, also known as Bamboo Stream Academy. Recalling the grace of past scholars here filled us with reverence. Though plans to visit Qu Xiang Garden (Confucius' lecture site) fell through, we later bid farewell to the Sage (Confucius) at Apricot Altar (his teaching ground).
The Mount Tai section reveals the author's lifelong yearning for the sacred peak. As a child, his teacher's descriptions planted seeds of longing. At twelve, returning from Xu River, he glimpsed Mount Yi from donkeyback, heart pounding with excitement. Later, while serving in Gushu, frequent passages near Mount Tai were always cut short by official duties, leaving lasting regret.
In the winter of Bingchen year, Mount Tai appeared in his dreams—an ominous sign. The following year, reassigned to Qi, his superior Li Youqing hosted a banquet praising the mountain's autumn beauty and urging a visit. Censor Bi likewise encouraged him. Finally, like Fan Li (styled Shaobo) gaining freedom from his stone chamber, he cast off bureaucratic constraints to wander Mount Tai at will.
In late June, we arrived at Boyi (present-day Boshan in Shandong) and set out at dawn. After dismissing the weaker porters and keeping only the strongest sedan chair carriers, our party departed from Dengfeng and reached Hongmen. I switched to a bamboo sedan, thinking Mount Tai didn't seem particularly difficult to climb—rather like Qinwang Mountain back in my hometown.
The two accompanying secretaries, Zhu Chu, remarked: "Mount Tai is quite different!" Just past the First Heavenly Gate, we encountered jagged boulders and precipitous mountain paths. Passing Doumu Hall and Gaolao Bridge, we heard the murmuring of mountain streams flowing through unfathomably deep ravines. After several li, we reached Water Curtain Cave. Though the weather was clear, we were already exhausted.
Several more li brought us to Mazha Cliff, said to be an ancient horse tethering station. Further ahead lay Huima Ridge—literally "Horse-Turning Ridge"—where steeds could climb no further. Continuing to Huangxian Ridge, named for its yellowish soil, we found this branch of Mount Tai constantly undulating in elevation. In the distance stood Aolai Peak, which locals always praised as rivaling Mount Tai itself, yet when approached, it shrank bashfully like a demure woman. We had to rest every ten steps and catch our breath every five—exhausting yet strangely delightful. At a place called "Three-Li Joy," the short distance left us inexplicably refreshed, hence its name.
Resting at Jade Emperor Pavilion, we thought we'd reached the summit, only to see the Robe-Changing Pavilion still shrouded in clouds above. The secretaries gasped: "How towering Mount Tai is! What is Qinwang Mountain compared to this?" Faint figures moved near Hongmen—was that the Second Heavenly Gate? Climbing further along Dragon Stone, after several li we heard a waterfall's roar—likely the legendary "Lofty Mountains and Flowing Waters" where Jiang Ziya once played the zither.
Yuzhang Cliff was said to be where Qin Shi Huang took shelter from wind and rain during his Fengshan sacrifices. A dying ancient pine stood by a tomb, still bearing its "Five Grandee Pines" plaque. Ascending past Chaoyang Cave, we gazed from Shake-Out-Robe Pavilion—the once-proud Aolai Peak now prostrated below like a vassal. At Hundred-Zhang Cliff and the Great and Small Dragon Valleys, sheer cliffs formed natural corridors with grottoes fit for immortals, as if only mythical giants like the Five Ding could have carved such perilous paths.
The trail grew steeper—those behind could see the soles of those ahead, while those ahead saw only the crowns behind, like human pyramids. Beyond Eighteen Bends, pines became stunted and withered, their blackened trunks moss-covered. The steps shot straight upward without even transverse footholds—sedan chairs were unthinkable here, where one's chin nearly knocked against their knees. Counting steps as I climbed, a porter suddenly warned: "Don't look back!"—we were already suspended in midair.
This passage describes the author's ascent of Mount Tai and his reflections, interwoven with thoughts on Daoist beliefs and folk legends.
Winding inward from the Third Heavenly Gate for several miles, it felt like entering a small village, with the summit already within reach. The author had intended to pay homage first to the Green Emperor (the deity of the East among the Five Directional Sovereigns), but the Daoist priests only knew of the Bixia Yuanjun (the Goddess of Mount Tai). Researching the origins of Yuanjun, legend has it that when the Yellow Emperor performed the Feng and Shan sacrifices on Mount Tai, he sent seven celestial maidens wearing cloud crowns and feathered robes to welcome the Kunlun Perfected One—Yuanjun was one of them. Yet the stele in front of the shrine records that she was the daughter of the Shi family from the Western Ox Country, guided by Immortal Cao to enter the Sky Void Mountain and become Bixia Yuanjun—who knows where this version came from?
Yuanjun's temple was resplendent in gold and jade, with incense smoke thick as clouds, while the Temple of the Sacred Mountain stood in dilapidation, even with people relieving themselves freely. The author quipped: Could it be that the God of Mount Tai (the Sacred Mountain Emperor) is like a petty local official, while Yuanjun truly holds the power? Devotees of Yuanjun surged like tides, donating tens of thousands in coins each year. The clamor of men and women burning incense, lighting lamps, begging, and praying shook the valleys, even causing fatal stampedes in the past. Today, however, only scattered visitors remained, allowing the rare blessing of tranquility.
At noon, mist rose like steam, and the Daoists believed a mirage was about to appear—a sight reminiscent of the Gongyang Commentary's anecdotes. After the meal, the sky cleared to a crystalline blue. The author paid respects at the Green Emperor's Palace before ascending to the Jade Emperor's Hall. Behind it, on a cliff twenty zhang high, was carved Emperor Xuanzong of Tang's Inscription Commemorating Mount Tai, each character as large as a palm, the strokes archaic and vigorous—said to be the handiwork of the calligrapher Han Zemu. There was also an inscription marking the "Peach Blossom Spring," where after rain, clouds rolled like an ocean, alongside Su Ting's Ode to the Eastern Feng Sacrifice. Yet the Lin family's stele of loyalty, filial piety, and chastity had forcibly squeezed in—such an act of transplanting ancestral shrine relics onto Mount Tai would surely shame their forebear Lin Fang (a virtuous man praised by Confucius).
The author lamented: Every rock was carved full of characters—this wretched habit of inscribing everywhere was like tattooing Mount Tai. Only the Wordless Stele, over a zhang tall and smooth as jade, stood like a draped curtain, clearly not native to the mountain. Who knows how the First Emperor (the Ancestral Dragon) transported it here? Back then, he erected a wordless stele, yet now Confucian scholars itch to carve on it. Thankfully, the ritual pu-wheeled chariots (with wheels wrapped in cattail) and sacrificial offerings remained untouched by them. The book-burning, scholar-burying First Emperor, in this regard, had foresight after all!
Finally, the author climbed the Fengshan Altar, the highest point of Mount Tai, where it seemed each breath could reach the throne of the Celestial Emperor. Looking down, clouds and mist galloped like wild horses, and under the moonlight, the winding glimmers could have been streams, lakes, or the Wen River. Those crouched like apes might be the Aolai Mountains; those coiled like rats or turtles were likely the Liangfu, Changbai, and the other seventy-two peaks.
This passage recounts the author's journey to Mount Tai (the sacred Eastern Peak, foremost of China's Five Great Mountains) and his reflections there. It begins by noting Mount Tai's status as the site of the ancient Fengshan ceremonies—the highest imperial rituals for worshiping heaven and earth—where Confucius, Yan Hui, and other sages once taught, and where literary giants like Cao Cao, Xie Lingyun, Li Bai, and Du Fu composed poetry.
Setting out from Zhangren Peak (a famous scenic spot), the author follows a secluded trail for fifteen li until reaching the tranquil Huanghua Cave. Towering pines stand verdant around the cave, where crystalline spring water refreshes both body and spirit. Locals often speak of "Mount Tai pines," yet the mountain is more renowned for its stones than its trees—though the very rocks seem imbued with a spiritual energy that nurtures the longevity of hermits dwelling there.
Passing landmarks like Huiyan Peak and Wuhua Ridge, the author drinks from the sweet waters of Yunü Spring and studies the seal-script inscriptions left by Li Si (the Qin dynasty chancellor). He laments how contemporary scholars can no longer match Li Si's vigorous calligraphy, criticizing official academies for neglecting classical traditions. Further explorations take him to sites like the Ritual Platform for Star Worship and Luban Cave, where he finds the Ming-dynasty official Yang Sichang's inscription "Rain for All Under Heaven" in Baiyun Cave.
From the summit of Yueguan Peak, the entire city of Tai'an appears as small as a chessboard square. A Daoist guide points to distant peaks—Blazing Flame Peak, Soaring Han Peak, Divine Empyrean Peak—as sunset stretches their shadows. When night falls, the cold bites deep. Wrapping himself in robes, the author gazes at stars clinging to the eaves, trembling like dewdrops or countless blinking eyes.
The passage concludes with the jade-inscribed stele of Emperor Wu of Han (buried during Fengshan rites), though no ethereal clouds swirl about it. Still, Mount Tai's majestic presence alone stirs awe. Through shifting landscapes, the text weaves together the mountain's profound cultural heritage and breathtaking natural grandeur.
This passage describes the author's ascent of Mount Tai, blending fantastical visions with profound reflections.
The opening depicts eerie mountain scenes: traces of ghosts battling humans, darkness tinged with blood, and after two hours, human teeth sprouting from the earth. Later, after a struggle in a pavilion, the author notices the world below still deep in slumber, with golden light flickering through sea mist, blurring the boundaries between clouds and peaks. He sighs, finding the scenery less vivid than the mountains of his Yue homeland, to which a Daoist priest replies that such sights are only visible in autumn.
The account continues with the climb: passing the "Stone for Viewing the Sea" and the "Immortal's Bridge," the author sees warnings from ancient sages carved into the "Cliff of Self-Sacrifice," quoting the Classic of Filial Piety—yet people still leap to their deaths there yearly. The author doubts the efficacy of such divine admonishments. Descending through the South Heavenly Gate, he nearly slips on the steep path but catches the railing in time. At the Stone Scripture Valley, Buddhist sutras carved by Yuan dynasty hands contrast with Ming scholars' inscriptions of Confucian texts, creating an intriguing juxtaposition.
Finally, the author reflects on the ascent: reaching the base past noon, he misses the ancient Han cypress. Gazing up at the cloud-piercing cliffs, he muses that being born in China does not guarantee seeing Mount Tai; seeing it does not guarantee climbing it; climbing does not guarantee fully experiencing it; and even then, one may never truly comprehend it. To behold the mountain in its entirety alone, he believes, is the fruit of past-life karma. Quoting the Ming writer Wang Siren, he notes that from the Moon-Viewing Peak, the sunset resembles a chariot, while from the Sun-Viewing Peak, the moonrise appears as a boat—though one cannot witness both, it is no cause for regret. He concludes by praising Mount Tai as the birthplace of all things, rightly chief of the Five Sacred Peaks, and though human life is fleeting, the mountain expands one's vision.
References:
- "Lady of the Azure Dawn" (Bixia Yuanjun) — the Daoist goddess of Mount Tai
- Lü Kun (Lü Shujian) — Ming dynasty scholar
- Wang Siren — Ming dynasty literatus
- "The junction of chou and yin" — Mount Tai's northeast position, corresponding to the Zhen (Thunder) trigram in the Bagua, symbolizing the awakening of life.
This passage describes the author's travels to famous sites in Jinan and his reflections, which can be divided into two parts:
The first part discusses Mount Tai's exalted status as the "Eastern Peak." Towering like a pillar propping up the heavens, shielding the seas, and guarding the Central Plains, it is a sacred gathering place for sages and a source of nourishing clouds and rain for all people. True appreciation lies not in viewing its springs and rocks, but in experiencing its majestic presence. Confucius perceived its harmonious celestial grandeur, while Mencius felt its vast and righteous spirit. The author humbly admits seeing only the mountain's azure hue, yet this alone expanded his mind and vision.
The second part records the Jinan journey. The author mentions three renowned sites: Huabuzhu Mountain, Daming Lake, and Baotu Spring. Staying at Lishan Academy, he drank with friends Cheng and Zhang at Shuyu Pavilion while observing the springs, noting Baotu Spring's diminished flow. Later wandering alone to Lixia Pavilion, he witnessed acres of lotuses reflecting the sky. Historical allusions weave through the narrative—the legend of Emperor Shun plowing Lishan, Dai Xuanzhi's verse lamenting rare true friendship, concluding with Zhang Yanghao's description of Dragon Cave as an expression of longing for southeastern acquaintances.
Special terms mentioned:
- Huabuzhu: Jinan's famous mountain resembling a tiger's fang piercing the sky
- Baotu Spring: Jinan's famed spring, already drying during the author's visit
- Lishan: Legendary site of Emperor Shun's agricultural labors
- White Snow Tower: Study of Ming dynasty writer Yu Lin
- Huan Yi: Eastern Jin scholar renowned for flute-playing
- Baoshan: Mountain in eastern Jinan suburbs
- Zhang Yanghao: Yuan dynasty literary figure
This passage is a travelogue by the Ming Dynasty literatus Wang Siren, documenting his pilgrimage to Qufu, the hometown of Confucius, blending landscape appreciation with reverence for the sage. The author begins with an analogy drawn from nature's principles: to truly grasp the profound essence of Jinan's scenic wonders, one cannot be content with superficial sightseeing. Just as smelling meat aromas outside a butcher's shop cannot satisfy hunger, how could a fleeting glance comprehend millennia of cultural accumulation?
He then meticulously records his visit to the Confucius Forest (the sage's cemetery): journeying two hundred li east from Mount Tai to Qufu, he crosses the Si River to suddenly behold thousands of acres of lush woodland. Passing through the Spirit Way, he encounters two stone figures holding ceremonial tablets, four sculpted stone qilin and tigers, and two ornamental pillars. After paying solemn respects at the Xiang Hall, he sequentially venerates the scholar tree planted by Zigong, the tombs of Zisi and Boyu, finally arriving at Confucius' burial mound. The author marvels that although this was once the territory of the Shaohao clan, the numinous Qi (vital energy) of heaven and earth only truly coalesced during Confucius' era.
Notable details emerge: the Si River's anomalous upstream flow here hints at the site's extraordinary nature; Confucius himself valued funeral rites, having specially observed the burial practices of Yanling Jizi; the three thatched huts Zigong built while guarding Confucius' tomb still stand today. The author suggests Confucius entrusting his posthumous affairs to Zigong contained profound intent—like snow melting upon a red-hot furnace, its subtle meaning perhaps only discernible to Zigong himself.
The account concludes with the verdant trees of Confucius Forest metaphorically representing the sage's teachings as towering ancient trees sheltering posterity. Interweaving geographical features with cultural reflection, the text reveals the deeper insight that "landscapes nurture people, while sages nurture the soul."
This passage recounts the author's travels through the cultural landmarks of Qufu, Shandong, documenting the sacred sites associated with Confucius and Mencius.
Standing before Confucius' tomb, the author observes that while the trees planted by his disciples have grown beyond recognition, the surrounding landscape remains unchanged after three millennia—a grandeur surpassing even the legendary eras of Yao and Shun. From the elevated pavilion, Mount Yi appears as a distant speck to the southeast, while the sacred peaks of Yanmu Mountain, Ni Mountain, and Qisheng Forest stretch across the horizon, each intimately connected to the sage's life.
Entering Qufu's city walls, the author explores the Temple of Confucius complex. Passing through Yucui Gate and Jinsheng Gate, they arrive at the Great Completion Hall housing the sage's sacred image. The walls display murals of Confucius teaching—followed by his disciple Yan Hui—attributed to Gu Kaizhi, along with a smaller seated portrait said to be Wu Daozi's work. Behind the main hall stand the Resting Hall and Hall of Sacred Traces, while the Apricot Platform (its inscription by Dang Huaiying) graces the forecourt. To the left of the central gate grows the withered yet enduring juniper supposedly planted by Confucius himself, once celebrated by the calligrapher Mi Fu.
Beneath the Kuiwen Pavilion, ancient cypresses stand solemnly amidst countless steles bearing inscriptions from Cai Yong and Cao Zhi onward. To the left lie the Ancestral Temple and Poetry Hall, while the right houses Qisheng Hall—where Duke Gong of Lu reportedly discovered ancient classics hidden within Confucius' walls. The author imagines hearing the astonished exclamations of that historic discovery.
The journey continues to sites honoring Yan Hui: the Humble Alley, Yan's Well, and Yan Temple—modest in scale compared to Confucius' grand complex, yet radiating the quiet glory of this devoted scholar. Departing through Ji Gate the next day, the author gazes toward the Rain Dance Altar and recalls Li Dongyang's poetry when passing Nine Dragons Mountain. By noon in Zoucheng, they pay respects at Mencius' Temple, where towering ancient cypresses stand witness to the philosopher's legacy. The eastern shrine honors Mencius' mother, featuring stone carvings depicting the young philosopher kneeling to receive her teachings. Four massive scholar trees planted during the Yuanyou era grace the courtyard. Local legend tells how Mencius' mother dreamt of Mount Tai's deity descending from clouds onto Mount Yi before giving birth—revealing how both Confucius and Mencius embodied the sacred qi (vital energy) of Taishan's spiritual landscape.
This passage records the travelogue of Ming dynasty literatus Zhong Xing's ascent of Mount Tai (Dai). The journey began on the 29th day of the ninth lunar month in the Wanli Bingchen year (1616), departing from Linqing by boat for four days before reaching the mountain. The actual climb spanned four days (from Xinchou to Jiachen dates). He was accompanied by three companions: Wu Kangyu (courtesy name Weiming) from She County with his grandson Wu Xunian, and Lin Maozhi (courtesy name Gudu) from Fujian.
The author makes a pointed observation: while common belief holds that one must ascend the famous Eighteen Bends to truly climb Mount Tai, every step from the mountain's base actually counts as part of the ascent. A day earlier (on Gengzi date), they had glimpsed the mountain from twenty li outside Tai'an Prefecture, noticing how numerous smaller peaks obscured Mount Tai's right flank. Though the actual transverse distance measured less than ten li, the winding path forced them to travel twenty li before reaching the prefectural city. Setting out from Dengfeng Gate, the four rode in sedan chairs with Mount Culai at their backs, following a mountain stream alongside the Wen River—its waters intermittently visible through crevices in the left cliff wall.
After five li they reached Yitian Gate, initially mistaking it for Mount Tai's summit, only to realize their error. Another thirty li brought them to what most consider the proper starting point for ascent. Here the author had an epiphany: the ten li they'd previously traversed had merely been Mount Aolai (a subsidiary peak), not the main mountain. Passing through Shijing Valley and Water Curtain Cave, the author treated these as incidental sights to be examined more closely during descent.
The text vividly describes the climbing experience: sometimes feeling merged with the mountain, other times as separate entities witnessing distinct landscapes. Beyond Xiema Cliff (where they rested their horses before even reaching its top), the stone steps became more regularized. At the stairway's end stood a pavilion dedicated to the Jade Emperor, from whose height they could survey Mount Culai. The account concludes with the character "降" (descent), hinting at subsequent observations during their return journey.
This passage describes the scenery and experience of ascending Mount Tai (anciently called "Dai" or "Daizong"). The account begins at Huangxian Ridge, where the mountain path winds deep into the landscape. Upon reaching Small Heavenly Gate, one can see the famous Five Minister Pines (the five pines where the First Emperor of Qin took shelter during rain while performing the Fengshan rituals), though the author feels these sights have lost their original charm, reduced to mere formalized official displays.
After passing Chaoyang Cave, one completes half the ascent. From the pavilion above the cave, one can observe various extraordinary rocks and cliffs, though the author notes these landscapes defy conventional descriptions like "pavilions," "cliffs," or "bridges." Here, one can quietly appreciate the interplay of springs and stones, sitting to listen to the water's music until one almost forgets to continue climbing. The author particularly mentions waterfall curtains resembling beaded screens and the Stone Sutra Valley (a stream-carved gorge inscribed with Buddhist scriptures), though not all carvings remain well-preserved.
From the First Heavenly Gate to this point, the author initially treated this section merely as obligatory passage, not intending to linger. But looking back, they realize having rushed past many worthy stopping places. Only a few spots seemed to compel longer stays, as if waiting for climbers to turn and appreciate them. The author imagines what the pines and springs above the Eighteen Bends might look like.
Continuing upward through Greater and Lesser Dragon Valleys marks the start of the Eighteen Bends. The steep path stretches about four or five li, where sedan chair carriers struggle, making the author prefer walking over anxious riding. Thus accompanied by servants and staff, they proceed on foot, the walking stick and footsteps creating a unique climbing rhythm. The chair bearers initially carry with four men, later reducing to two, moving sideways like crabs and rotating like spirals when changing shifts—developing their own working method.
Finally reaching the Third Heavenly Gate, which most consider the true starting point of the ascent. Beyond lies Bixia Palace (a Daoist temple enshrining the Bixia Yuanjun), where the author worships and rests. From Five Flower Cliff's vantage, though the rock face may not truly bear five patterns, Mount Culai appears especially solemn to the north. These peaks that once blocked Mount Tai from dozens of li away now seem to prostrate at its feet—straining to maintain dignity yet unable to conceal their subordination. At dusk, the author beholds the magnificent spectacle of sunset's radiant reflections.
This passage describes the author's experience ascending Mount Tai (Dai Zong) and witnessing the sunrise.
The author first mentions famous scenic spots on the mountain: the Jade Maiden Pool and the Li Si Stele, both located on either side of the official residence. Due to the late hour, they couldn’t examine them closely. The next day, they ascended from the east side of the residence, behind which stood the Temple of the Eastern Peak (Dongyue Miao). There, they found a cliff inscription from the 14th year of Emperor Xuanzong of Tang’s Tianbao era, written in clerical script with characters several inches tall. Though weathered by time, the inscription was still faintly visible. Nearby was a eulogy composed by Su Shi, but its original beauty had been marred by crude, oversized carvings left by vulgar visitors. Displeased, the author departed.
Continuing toward the Jade Emperor Summit (Yuhuang Ding), the highest point of Mount Tai, the author planned to first visit the nearby Sunrise-Viewing Peak (Riguan Feng) to observe the dawn. Passing Confucius Cliff to the west and descending along the stone wall, they arrived at the Western Heavenly Gate (Xi Tianmen). Mount Tai has three Heavenly Gates, and the Western Gate is a naturally formed stone archway, inscribed with ancient writings such as "When the wind stills and the mist clears, the eyes grow calm and the heart serene." Looking down from the gate, they saw jagged rocks below, jutting up like bamboo shoots.
At the Jade Emperor Summit, the author encountered a stele several feet tall. Though not large, it bore the most significant inscription on Mount Tai. Slightly below stood the famous Wordless Stele, about which the author composed a poem. Behind the stele, they could overlook the Yellow Blossom Cave (Huanghua Dong), also known as the Rear Stone Chamber. The cave was surrounded by lush pines, but due to its vast and deep interior—requiring a full day to explore—they chose not to enter.
That night, they stayed at the summit under strong winds and a bright moon. In the middle of the night, a servant reported light in the east, and the author, thinking it was sunrise, hurried to see. Instead, they found the countless peaks bathed in a jade-green glow, with stars dim but faintly visible. After a long wait, a red sun slowly rose from the blue horizon, its shape initially imperfect, only becoming fully round and white after completely separating from the sea. The author reflected: at sunset, the light descends, painting the sea of clouds red, but sunrise is far more arduous; sunset obscures all things in chaos, while sunrise brings clarity to the world.
This passage recounts the author's experience ascending Mount Tai (known as Dai in classical texts), blending vivid observations with Daoist-inspired reflections on nature. The description unfolds through a series of scenic transitions, each revealing the mountain's mystical grandeur.
The journey begins at the Jade Maiden Pool, where solemn stone embankments frame water mirroring the sky's radiance. Resting at Yellow Flower Cave, the author follows the mountain path upward to discover a natural marvel—the Immortal's Bridge, formed by three massive interlocking boulders resembling hooks. Flat rocks nearby offer vantage points to contemplate the converging landscapes of the Wen River and Mount Culai. Passing the perilous Self-Sacrifice Cliff, the author notes grotesque human-shaped rocks below.
At Sunrise Peak (renowned for dawn views), an attempt to inscribe the poetic line "Ocean sun births the fading night" goes unrealized. Turning toward the Jade Emperor Summit, the author observes the serpentine Yellow Blossom Path winding along cliffs for miles. To the left, the Eight Immortals Cave clings to the precipice, while distant rock formations mimic temples, walls, and forests—a natural spectacle the author dubs "Bamboo-Shoot City."
Central to the narrative is Mount Tai's ethereal interplay of pine forests and mist: windless pine groves resonate with unseen music, while swirling mists cascade like frozen waterfalls between ridges. Through a Daoist lens, the author traces the generative relationships between sunlight, springs, pines, and mountain winds—sunlight ignites the springs' glow, springs nourish the pines, and pines summon the winds.
Before departing, the author inscribes "Dai is never without pines" at Sunlit Cave, marveling at how the mountain's pines here attain their fullest vitality, with springs and ravines composing harmonious contrasts. At dusk, gazing back at Eight Immortals Cave, the group traverses a dragon-spine ridge and follows echoing footsteps through the chasmic Hong Valley to Confucius Cliff. The text masterfully paints Mount Tai's "pine-soughing, spring-carved" immortals' realm through this flowing, panoramic vision.
This passage records the author's detailed experience and reflections while ascending Mount Tai (also known as Dai). Initially staying at an official residence, the author climbed Yueguan Peak the following day, passing famous sites like the West Heavenly Gate and the Eighteen Bends. At the Eighteen Bends, the author felt a sense of reverence, not daring to consider this path as the true main route up Mount Tai. Following the path through Erlong Valley to Chaoyang Cave, the author observed pine trees and springs, with a local youth pointing out landmarks: the pavilion above was the Sun Viewing Stone, the railed area was the Cliff of Self-Sacrifice, and the beam-like structure was the Immortal Bridge. Only then did the author grasp the spatial relationships between these sites.
Comparing the scenery of Huanghua Cave with the pine-and-spring landscapes above the Eighteen Bends, the author noted that each had its own charm. Crossing Huangxian Ridge, the mountain path grew even more winding, and looking down, the author realized the stream flowed outside the stone cliffs. At the Water Curtain Spring, the author observed how the water was blocked by rocks—though the winter flow was meager, it never ceased. The author inscribed words on the stone, describing the shifting weather and the view above the clouds.
The most remarkable site was the Sutra Stone Valley, where the Diamond Sutra was carved in Han-dynasty clerical script, each character as large as a peck measure. The scripture followed the natural contours of the stone until its surface ended. The author marveled at the devotion of those who carved it and later composed a eulogy in commemoration. The entire journey took four days—two above the Eighteen Bends—with the ascent completed on the Xinchou day and the descent on the Jiachen day. Reflecting afterward, the author remarked: Though the physical climb from boat to summit seemed complete, the essence of Mount Tai still felt elusive. Only when following the Wen and Pan Rivers back to the Ji River did the attachment to the journey finally fade.
The text mentions renowned sites like the Cliff of Self-Sacrifice, Immortal Bridge, and Huanghua Cave, while the Diamond Sutra carvings at Sutra Stone Valley remain a key cultural relic of Mount Tai. Through meticulous observation, the author captures the changing landscapes at different elevations and the emotional arc of the climb—from anticipation and awe to eventual detachment.
The Records of Famous Mountains contains observations of several peaks, which I will explain section by section:
Regarding Mount Dai (Tai Shan): The text describes how all its water sources originate from the mountain's profound foundations, with its vital energy extending all the way to the Cao River. The varying flow speeds of the Cao River's currents are all connected to Tai Shan's influence - even the waterways bearing boats are gifts from this sacred mountain. Though travelers have already embarked on their journeys, Tai Shan's enduring presence continues to shape their passage. The author marvels at the mountain's greatness!
Records of Zouyi Mountain (by Liu Meizhi):
Though not one of the Five Sacred Peaks, Zouyi Mountain's grotto-heavens (Dongtian) display exquisite craftsmanship, with craggy cliffs and caves forming countless marvelous configurations that might surpass the beauty of other mountains. Isn't this precisely what Daoists refer to as one of the "Grotto-Heavens and Blissful Realms"? Recently, Master Zhang of Daojiang composed a poem about Yi Mountain: "By the Huai River stands Geyi Mountain, where solitary tung trees grow on southern slopes." Geographically distant and easily confused with similarly named peaks, this Yi Mountain lies far from present-day Xuzhou and is not the "solitary tung trees of Yi's southern slopes" mentioned in the Tribute of Yu.
My textual research reveals: The Book of Documents states "Between the sea and Dai Mountain lies the region of Xuzhou"; the Book of Odes (Bì Gōng) mentions "possessing Fu and Yi, encompassing Gui and Meng, thus bordering Xuzhou"; Du Yu's commentary on the 13th year of Duke Wen in the Spring and Autumn Annals notes "Yi Mountain lies north of Zou County." Southwest of present-day Yi Mountain stands a village called Old County, likely the ancient Zou County location. Tang dynasty scholar Du You's Comprehensive Institutions records: "The ancient capital of Zou State, forty li in circumference, stands southeast of the county, with peaks atop the mountain and ravines below - these perilous wonders constitute Zouyi Mountain." Song scholar Wang Yinglin's Supplementary Commentary on the Odes states: "Fu and Yi form one mountain within Xuzhou's territory, with Yi and Yi being interchangeable." Li Zhong's poetic interpretation similarly notes: "The Yi in 'possessing Fu and Yi' refers to the 'Yi's southern slopes' in the Tribute of Yu."
Records of Visiting Queli (by Shu Fen):
In the intercalary month of the 3rd year of Jiajing reign, Shu Fen sailed to Jining specifically to pay respects at Confucius Temple (Queli), where he was received by Master Lü Jiuchuan. By coincidence, Hanquan also arrived on official business, so they journeyed together. On the jiazi day, they traveled sixty li east from Jining to Dongping Post Station, then another forty li east to reach their destination. That evening, they bathed and changed at the official residence. At dawn the next day, they prepared vegetables and fruits, bringing water from Magu Spring to perform the ancient Shicai ritual (a simple ceremony honoring the First Teacher). Master Lü remarked: "This rite has long fallen into disuse." After the ceremony, they entered the resting hall to honor the Lady of Yun (Confucius's mother), then paid respects to the King Qisheng (Confucius's father) in the right hall. Emerging to view the Apricot Altar before the main hall, they saw the newly built Xingyan Pavilion. Outside the Dacheng Gate, they observed the juniper tree allegedly planted by Confucius himself - its solitary trunk displayed an antique bronze hue, resembling a coiled dragon poised to ascend. Shortly after, they visited the Kuiwen Pavilion, proceeded to the Dazhong Gate, and then to...
Standing before the ceremonial gate (the main entrance of ancient architecture), one can see dozens of cypress trees casting their shade beside the steps on either side, with a group of docile golden-furred deer nursing their young. Ascending the Kuiwen Pavilion for a panoramic view, the northern, eastern, and southern horizons are embraced by mountain ranges that resemble court officials in ceremonial attire—wearing crowns, adorned with jade pendants, and holding ritual tablets—bowing respectfully from thirty li away.
Due south lies Gang Mountain, with Fu Mountain visible in the farther distance. At its foothills, legend holds, Fu Xi drew the Eight Trigrams (Bagua). To the southeast stands Fang Mountain, beyond which lies Ni Mountain. South of Ni Mountain is Huang Mountain, with Yanmu Mountain, Yi Mountain, and Sanfeng Mountain extending over two hundred li in the distance.
Due east rises Dong Mountain, flanked by Jiulong Mountain further out, followed by Fenghuang Mountain, Peiwei Mountain, and Meng Mountain. The southern slopes of Meng Mountain feature Jiagu Valley, spanning roughly three hundred li. To the northeast, on the western side of Ma'an Mountain, it is said Confucius edited the Book of Songs (Shijing) and Book of Documents (Shangshu). Beyond this stretch Linle Mountain and Changping Mountain, with Gui Mountain marking the farthest reach—a domain of about two hundred li.
Due north stands Jiufeng Mountain, with Zeng Mountain and Xing Mountain forming its periphery. Beyond these stretch Liangfu Mountain, Yunyun Mountain, Tingting Mountain, Jieqiu Mountain, and Culai Mountain, ultimately converging into the grand massif of Mount Tai (Taishan). Viewed from afar, Mount Tai appears veiled in misty clouds, its ridges extending over a hundred li. The western vista opens into expansive lowlands dotted only with gentle hills and terraced mounds, encircling the landscape like palace walls, with waterways meandering visibly across several dozen li.
Nearby flow three rivers: the Yi, Zhu, and Si. Further out lie the Cao and Guang Rivers, with the Wen and Ji Rivers marking the distant reaches. Most of these waterways course southwestward, eventually merging into the present-day Ji River before turning eastward through Xuzhou to join the Huai River. Clarifications are necessary:
The Yi River here originates from Ni Mountain, flows south of Queli (Confucius’s hometown), passes west through Kui Spring, and after merging with Yu River, travels seventy li before joining the Si River. This is not the six-hundred-li Yi River that rises from the foothills of Dai Mountain’s Yi Mountain and flows through Xiapi. The Zhu River emerges from the northwest of Linle Mountain, courses through the Confucius Forest (Konglin), and empties into the Si River—distinct from the Zhu River originating north of Yancheng. The local Si River flows westward from Peiwei Mountain, passes north of Queli for over a hundred li before turning south to merge with the Yi River and feed into the Ji River. This differs from the thousand-li Si River that begins south of Chengshi County and flows east to enter the Huai at Muling. As for the Wen River, it has three sources—Xiantai Plain, Shanzhai Village, among others—all converging downstream of Tai’an before flowing west sixty li to meet the Xiaowen River, which originates from Culai Mountain.
This passage describes the unique connection between China's mountainous landscapes and its cultural history. It mentions that most mountain ranges in the world originate from Kunlun Mountain (a sacred peak in Daoist legend), while rivers generally flow eastward. However, the terrain around Qufu in Shandong is exceptional—here, the mountains encircle the north, east, and south, while rivers like the Yi, Wen, Zhu, and Si flow westward instead, forming a distinctive "counter-current" pattern.
The author suggests this geographical feature holds profound significance: the vital energy (Qi) of the Central Plains is safeguarded by this "counter-current." Just as the Yellow River breaks through the Jishi Mountains to enter the heartland, without the stabilizing presence of Mount Tai and other eastern peaks, regions like Qingzhou and Xuzhou might have long sunk like the Jieshi Mountains. It is precisely this unusual landscape of reverse-flowing mountains and rivers that protects the foundational vitality of Chinese civilization, which is why Mount Tai holds the revered status of "sovereign" among the Five Sacred Mountains.
The text particularly highlights Qufu (ancient name: Queli) as corresponding to the celestial division of the Kuixing constellation, making it a "convergence point of Heaven and Earth's Qi." While touring the Confucius Temple with his friend the Duke of Sagehood, the author recounts two historical anecdotes: first, how Confucius, even when trapped between Chen and Cai, continued playing his zither and singing, ultimately moving his besiegers; second, how Duke Gong of Lu initially planned to demolish Confucius’s old residence to expand his palace but abandoned the idea after being moved by the ethereal sounds of ancient instruments emanating from the house. These stories illustrate the principle that a noble person should cultivate their virtue (De) even in adversity.
Their detailed itinerary is recorded: first ascending the Hall of Poetry and Ritual (originally named the Hall of Extended Hospitality), then visiting the Confucian family temple, where the ruins of the Golden Zither Hall—once nearly demolished by Duke Gong of Lu—still stand before the shrine. In the afternoon, they paid respects at the Temple of Yan Hui, observing the remains of the humble alley and ancient well where the sage once lived. Finally, they traveled four li north of the city to the Confucius Forest, entering through Jian Gate to venerate Confucius’s tomb. The burial mound, over ten feet high, is surrounded by deep woods, with the Zhu River flowing quietly before it. To the southwest, the site where Zigong once kept vigil over his master’s grave is still preserved.
Interweaving geomancy (Feng Shui) with humanistic spirit, the passage embodies the Daoist worldview of "harmony between Heaven and humanity" (天人合一).
This passage documents the landscape and cultural relics of ancient sacred mountains. On the left side of the southeastern tunnel, someone constructed a Zhubi Pavilion (a resting place for ancient emperors during travels). In front of the pavilion stand two stone human figures and four stone beasts, all carved in a primitive and peculiar style.
Regarding the identity of these stone carvings, the text records differing interpretations: Shengong (Kong Wenshao, the 62nd-generation descendant of Confucius) believed the stone figures represented Wengzhong (guardian statues placed before ancient tombs), while the two foremost stone beasts were Jiaoduan (mythical creatures). Fen (Shu Fen, a Jiangxi scholar), however, identified the outer pair of stone beasts as divine sheep and the inner pair as Boma (legendary hybrid creatures). He suggested the human figures were bronze Wengzhong statues cast during Emperor Ming of Wei's reign and originally erected outside the Sima Gate. He speculated that tomb guardian figures might have alternative names, possibly resembling Fangxiang (ancient exorcism deities).
The narrative then describes the scenery of the Zhusi Lecture Platform (a reconstructed academic site where Confucius taught): located before the Ma'an Mountain, where two peaks form an inkstone-like formation amidst beautiful landscapes. Behind the platform lies Shengong's villa. The author subsequently visits the Duke of Zhou Temple in the northeastern part of the city (a shrine dedicated to the Duke of Zhou), situated on elevated ground commanding panoramic views of remarkable scenery to the north, east, and south. Mention is made of the decline of the Dongye clan, descendants of the Duke of Zhou. Jiuchuan (a Guanzhong scholar named Jing) had previously repaired the temple walls and arranged for regular maintenance with monthly grain provisions for caretakers.
The text further chronicles the dramatic landscape where the Wen River (modern Shandong's Wen River) flows through the Laigu Valley: hundred-mile stretches of continuous mountains flank the waterway as it courses through stone gullies, abundant in medicinal herbs. Pine and cypress forests line the route between steep cliffs, with some sections presenting perilous mountain paths and others forming secluded valleys enclosed by rocky walls. When mountain breezes stir, the entire valley resonates with the sound of wind through pines. About ten li into the valley lies the Solitary Mountain Hollow, containing a clear spring. Several zhang above the spring are two stone caves, said to have been dwellings of ancient hermits.
The valley was still veiled in mist, its trees growing dense and tall where few could reach. Small farm plots remained visible in the hollow, their ancient irrigation channels still clearly marked. Beyond the valley lay a flat earthen mound nestled against green mountains and facing a flowing stream—locals had cultivated wheat here for generations. Tradition held this mound unsuitable for millet or glutinous panicum (staple grains of antiquity), yet remarkably fertile for wheat. Families from Qi (modern Shandong) had passed down wheat cultivation techniques here across centuries, earning the place names like "Wheat Mound" or sometimes "Fool’s Valley."
What profound seclusion—a perfect retreat for Daoist cultivation! Passing through, I found myself lingering involuntarily, gazing in repeated contemplation, utterly reluctant to depart.
Source text: Kanripo 漢籍リポジトリ(KR5i0105); Licence: CC BY-SA 4.0 · Report an error / feedback